tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-70719235941080236752024-03-13T11:22:31.086-07:00The Savory HunterFood, restaurants, cocktails and beverages. Mostly in LA but wherever good cuisine and drinks reside.Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05276227722765213573noreply@blogger.comBlogger450125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-35620082871764690522013-04-16T17:28:00.000-07:002013-04-16T17:28:41.212-07:00Trois Mec: First Look at Ludo's New Restaurant<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Ludo Lefebvre, the </span><i style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">enfant
terrible</i><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;"> of the Los Angeles culinary scene has struck again, partnering
with the successful duo of Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo of Animal and Son of a Gun
to open </span><a href="http://troismec.com/" style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Trois Mec</a><span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">. The restaurant, whose
name roughly translates as “Three Guys” is located in a former Raffallo’s Pizza
in a strip mall on Highland, just steps from Pizzeria Mozza. Lefebvre, whose itinerant pop-up LudoBites garnered
significant attention as well as a massive email list, is serving French
cuisine in a tasting menu format. The
current pricing is $75 plus a mandatory gratuity and tax.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">I had the opportunity to dine at Trois Mec last week, and
the menu was $69, plus the same 18% gratuity.
A $48 wine pairing was offered and Trois Mec is one of the few
restaurants in Los Angeles that does not permit corkage. This is likely due to the size of the
restaurant; Trois Mec only seats 18 patrons at tables and 8 additional diners
at a dining bar facing the kitchen. The
wine list was still a work in progress but at the time of my dinner was tilted
towards wines at the $100+ price point, making the pairing an attractive
option.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Dinner at Trois Mec begins with a flurry of amuse bouches,
which included a boneless fried chicken wing and a duck a l’orange in which
diners drink the orange sauce once the duck has been consumed. I would not have minded a whole plateful of boneless
chicken wings; just think of the possibilities of a Super Bowl party at Trois
Mec.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The tasting menu consisted of five courses, the first of
which is listed on the menu as <br />
<i>Peas, beans, smoked eel, lamb, green
cardamom</i>. The lamb was served on top
of the peas and beans and eel. I shared
the eel with my dining companion, so cannot comment on that element of the
dish, but the lamb was rather delicious and well prepared.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="line-height: 115%;">Carrot,
bbq, orange, yogurt, avocado, watercress </span></i><span style="line-height: 115%;">was the second
principal course. This was followed by <i>Potato pulp, brown butter, bonito, onion
soubise, salers</i>. The two veggie
courses were quite different, with the potato course almost a puffy latke,
while the carrot course was cleaner. The
salers cheese was on display in a wheel that weighed over 70 pounds.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span style="line-height: 115%;">Chicken,
asparagus, mustard flower mustard, pancetta, brioche</span></i><span style="line-height: 115%;"> was
Ludo’s take on the classic chicken with mustard sauce. Unlike traditional mustard sauce, this was
made using the mustard flowers, rather than the seeds. It made for a different, yet familiar
experience. My dining companion loved
it.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">The concluding course in the five course tasting was <i>Strawberry, almond ice cream, rhubarb, rose
ice, olive oil cake.</i> This take on a
strawberry short cake was my dining companion’s favorite and one I very much enjoyed
as well. It is rare to have a savory kitchen turn out a
dessert of note, the butterscotch budino at Mozza is one, but this dish was a
highlight. We were given a final
mignardes along with the check at the end of the meal.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Overall this was an ambitious meal and successfully
executed. $75 for five courses plus
amuses is more than fair; there is no danger of diners leaving hungry. On the night I dined, neither Jon nor Vinny
was there as I do not believe they will be there on a regular basis as this is
Ludo’s kitchen. Helen Johannesen, Jon
& Vinny’s director of operations / beverage director, was on site to ensure
everything went smoothly.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">It was reported by Betty Hallock in the LA Times that
Trois Mec will fill its seats via selling tickets rather than taking
reservations. This method, pioneered by
Grant Achatz’s Next in Chicago, ensures that it will be quite difficult to get
in and that the restaurant will not suffer any no-shows. As diners have paid in advance, the only bill
they are presented with at the end of the meal is for beverages.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit; line-height: 115%;">Tickets can be purchased at their website <a href="http://troismec.com/">here</a>. Good luck getting in. It will be interesting to see how the resale
market develops. Scalpers for a dinner
reservation?</span><br />
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Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-73816732483211138382012-09-21T10:39:00.003-07:002012-09-21T10:39:35.603-07:00Yup, its still about the Ground Beef & Pickle Tacos @ Mas Malo<br />
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<a href="http://masmalorestaurant.com/">Mas Malo</a>, the "badder" DTLA sequel to the popular cantina in Silver Lake has a prime location, on the ground floor of the building that houses Seven Grand on 7th Street. The space is a former jewelry store and has double height ceilings and is landmarked. I was recently invited to check it out and was able to sample several of the dishes and cocktails.</div>
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Overall the dish I recommend most is the signature dish of the establishment, the <b>ground beef and pickle taco</b>. It is filling, and at only $4 is a value. The ground beef, pickles and shredded cheese is a homage to the classic cheeseburger. Stuffed into the fried shell and dipped into the Serrano salsa it is surprisingly delicious and a crowd pleaser.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gBD04Mhpsnc/UFyKIQCMnHI/AAAAAAAAFBo/1qfJ7CdCzA0/s1600/Ground+beef+and+pickles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gBD04Mhpsnc/UFyKIQCMnHI/AAAAAAAAFBo/1qfJ7CdCzA0/s400/Ground+beef+and+pickles.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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To share, the <b>Chicken in Mole Poblano</b> ($16) is also quite good. The mole sauce is rich and complex and not overly sweet. While it may not be at the level of Guelaguetza, this is a dish I can heartily recommend and would order again. It is hard to not dip your chips into the mole; always the sign of a successful sauce.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WAOcpmsqzRI/UFyKHy0yQ4I/AAAAAAAAFBg/vTD-CgwALwI/s1600/Chicken+with+mole.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WAOcpmsqzRI/UFyKHy0yQ4I/AAAAAAAAFBg/vTD-CgwALwI/s400/Chicken+with+mole.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The <b>Medicina Latina</b> with a chili salt rim was a highlight of the beverage menu. I thought the other cocktails I sampled were just ok. As they have 200 tequilas and mezcals on the list, exploring the deep list may be the optimal way to go. Unfortunately Mas Malo doesn't have sangrita to accompany the great tequilas.<br />
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You can reserve their tequila vault for tastings or private dinners. This room was literally one of the vaults used by the jewelry store decades ago. The huge glass and steel door is impressive and leads to a small room with walls lined with bottle after bottle of tequila and mezcal. The selection inside could inspire one to dig a tunnel underground and come up inside the vault, just to get to try them all.<br />
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Mas Malo carries the full Del Maguey line of mezcals, including the Pechuga, made with chicken breast. The photograph below is but part of one wall of the tequila vault. Reserving the vault for a tasting may be the best way to enjoy Mas Malo; it will certainly impress your friends.<br />
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Whether you are looking to sober up before or after a Seven Grand visit or are planning on having dinner and sampling the full menu, Mas Malo is a beautiful comfortable space with reasonable prices and a nice vibe. The ground beef and pickle taco has some ineluctable quality that just draws me in. Some things just can't be explained; they need to be experienced.<br />
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Mas Malo: 515 West 7th Street, DTLA | 213.985.4332 | <a href="http://masmalorestaurant.com/">http://masmalorestaurant.com</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-780262841591067812012-09-06T15:16:00.001-07:002012-09-06T15:16:29.103-07:00Tom Bergin's Irish Coffee of Dreams<a href="http://tombergins.com/">Tom Bergin's</a> reopened in May after a long closure to revamp the space, the cocktails and the food menu. The classic Irish pub still exudes its traditional vibe, only cleaner and with better drinks and bites. The cocktail menu was created by Marcos Tello and Aidan Demarest of Liquid Assets, who included Irish whiskey in each of their signature beverages.<br />
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I stopped by when the renovation was first complete but was recently invited back to see Bergin's now that it has settled into its current comfortable form.<br />
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Not to be missed are two versions of Irish Coffee:<b> Irish Coffee </b>and the <b>Sheridan Special</b>. The Irish Coffee is made with Bushmill's Irish Whiskey, hot coffee, demerara sugar and a generous serving of cream. The Sheridan's Special, named after Joe Sheridan who created Irish Coffee at the local airport in Dublin in 1942 to warm up fliers, is a cold version of the signature Irish Coffee. Their house coffee is combined with Bushmill's and Galliano Ristretto, stirred over ice and then poured into a glass and topped with hand whipped cream. Decadent and dessert-like. You can't go wrong with either.<br />
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When I first sampled the <b>Cooper Union</b> in May, I found it to be too sweet. Either the recipe has been tweeked or the bartender is now making it properly as the current version is quite pleasing. Red Breast, St. Germain, Orange Bitters and Islay Scotch come together in this this cocktail served in an old fashioned glass. Nicely potent without overpowering, this stirred cocktail is a pleasing aperitif.<br />
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The <b>Mascushla Manhattan</b>, made with Black Bush stirred with Benedictine, Lillet and Angostura bitters, is a very mellow Manhattan variant. Garnished with a lemon peel, this drink will relax quietly at the table rather than assert itself.<br />
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Bushmill's Whiskey, Blended Scotch, orgeat and lemon juice come together in the <b>Cameron's Kick</b>, a classic recipe straight from the 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book. The almond syrup stands in for sugar in this take on the Whiskey Sour. This shaken cocktail is frothy and on the lighter side.<br />
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The <b>Irish Maid </b>is the Emerald Isle's answer to the mojito with Bushmill's, sugar, lime juice, mint and cucumber joining forces in an easy sipping cocktail.<br />
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The<b> Peeled Irish Buck</b> is garnished with candied ginger and made with Bushmill's, apple juice, ginger syrup, lime juice and soda water. Bucks are a category of cocktail made with ginger ale, ginger beer, or in this case ginger syrup and soda water, and mixed with citrus and alcohol and served in a collins glass. If you'd like to learn more,<a href="http://www.sfgate.com/food/article/Ginger-beer-gives-a-buck-more-bang-3291411.php"> this excellent piece</a> by Camper English goes into detail.<br />
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The makeover did not end at the bar, but continued into the kitchen, as the menu consists of classic Irish dishes, executed well. My favorite items were the lamb stew, the fish & chips, the fried chicken skin and the fried cooleeney cheese. The F<b>ried Spicy Chicken Skin </b>(below) was crunchy and lightly spiced and was served with a Cashel Blue cheese sauce. Fried chicken skin should be on more menus around town. It isn't the most visually appealing dish, but it is delicious.<br />
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The French Fries in the <b>Fish & Chips</b> were among the best I have eaten lately, with enough crunch but not too soft. The fish is also lightly battered, and not too oily.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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The <b>Fried Cooleeney Cheese</b> with Irish curry apple salad is an unusual dish and is recommended.<br />
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The <b>Irish Stew</b> is a hearty stew with lamb, potatoes, carrots and onions. I enjoyed it very much, but wish that there had been more lamb in it. This dish would not fill you up by itself.<br />
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The <b>corned beef and cabbage</b> is fine but not worth crossing town for. Langer's this is not.<br />
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The <b>Cottage Pie</b> is another well executed potato dish, made with braised beef, so a cut above a Shepard's Pie.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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All in all Tom Bergins is now a winner, whether you want to get a pint or a cocktail in the main bar area or retreat to the calm of the dining room. The prices are reasonable (entrees above were $13 - $18) and the establishment is literally an LA classic. As Tello and Demarest trained the bar staff, they can execute the classics as well as the cocktail list, but this isn't the place to ask for an esoteric libation.<br />
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If you come often enough, you may merit a shamrock on the crowded ceiling of the bar room. An achievement worth striving for.<br />
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Tom Bergin's: 840 S. Fairfax Ave, Mid City | 323.936.7151 | <a href="http://tombergins.com/">http://tombergins.com/</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-43278270758640168772012-08-30T14:58:00.001-07:002012-08-30T14:58:45.408-07:00Mushroom Paella at Bow & Truss<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The <b>Earth Paella</b> at <a href="http://www.bowandtruss.com/">Bow & Truss</a> is a vegetarian dish from chef Stefhanie Meyers of Bow & Truss, who formerly worked under John Sedlar at Playa and Rivera. This paella incorporates four kinds of mushrooms: shitake, button, hon shimeji and oyster; and is one of the best vegetarian dishes I have had all year. The paella is savory and full of rich flavors; the rice is cooked just right with the crispy edges providing a nice textural element. It is not very often that I eat a dish I can't stop thinking about and Meyers's Earth Paella is one such meal. </div>
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The precision of Meyers's cooking and presentation is evident; she obviously learned a lot while under Sedlar's tutelage and has gone onto create winning dishes of her own. As a vegetarian chef, she describes herself on twitter as a "tattooed girly vegetarian who chews the meat and spits it out." Her Earth Paella is more satisfying than most meat dishes; it could handily please even committed carnivores. Meyers said that she was looking to create a dish that as a vegetarian she would love to eat, while keeping within the traditions of paella. This dish comes in individual or sharing portions ($11, $18) and is worth the drive to North Hollywood to sample. Even better, you can sip on <a href="http://www.savoryhunter.com/2012/08/bow-truss-brings-cocktails-to-noho.html">some delicious cocktails</a> while you enjoy the paella.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ef3ve1QhU7w/UDecf1xB-_I/AAAAAAAAE9g/hF-IyoLVWnI/s1600/Paella.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="475" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ef3ve1QhU7w/UDecf1xB-_I/AAAAAAAAE9g/hF-IyoLVWnI/s640/Paella.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Bow & Truss: 11122 Magnolia Blvd, North Hollywood | 818.985.8787 | <a href="http://www.bowandtruss.com/">www.bowandtruss.com</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-6554644384543154202012-08-30T13:12:00.001-07:002012-08-30T13:12:29.733-07:00Summer Fun @ 1886<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I have been a fan and advocate of <a href="http://www.theraymond.com/">1886 Bar at the Raymond</a> since it opened in November of 2010 in South Pasadena. Marcos Tello & Aidan Demarest built a strong program by hiring talented bartenders, a thorough training, and encouraging innovation. Garrett McKechnie, the head bartender, has continued to helm the program and all the bartenders have the opportunity to create cocktails on the seasonal menus. At this point, 1886 is unquestionably among the top 5 cocktail bars in the Los Angeles area. There is deep bench strength among the bartending staff, so that regardless of who is on shift, customers are guaranteed a quality craft cocktail experience.</div>
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I was recently invited to try the current seasonal menu focusing on summer cocktails. Highlights are below. I encourage you to check it out for yourself:</div>
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<b>After Hours</b> is a summer spiced rum swizzler that is a collaboration between bartenders Lacey Murillo and Brady Weise. Weise is known for his beer cocktails, so there is no surprise that this drink is topped with hazelnut porter. Spiced rum, passion fruit, pineapple, and a touch of bitters are the other ingredients. This tiki drink walks on the wild side, and as the menu notes includes Rosanna Arquette and Griffin Dunne. Marcos Tello, the godfather of the 1886 bartending clan, is a huge advocate of swizzles, so this drink fits well within that tradition, yet takes it to a new tropical destination.<br />
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The <b>Kai Lani</b> was originally conceived by Brian Miller (ex Death & Company) of Manhattan and head bartender Garrett McKenchnie has put his own spin on this modern tiki classic. In true tiki style this cocktail includes two rums: an aged rum and Wray & Nephew overproof Jamaican rum, as well as peach liqueur, fresh lemon juice and Garrett's Spice Mix #1. Adhering to another tiki tradition, McKechnie would not divulge the secret ingredients of his spice mix. The Kai Lani looks festive and the peach liqueur comes through loud and clear. It is shaken, which gives it a cool frothy element.<br />
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The <b>Tranquilizer </b>is described as "a tropical delight that will knock you on your ass" and that description is accurate. Wray & Nephew overproof rum and Batavia Arrack provide the kick, while coconut and pineapple juice provide the mellow disguise. This drink is one of the tastiest on the list, each sip takes you one step closer to the islands, and to having your butt on the floor as this is indeed a powerful beverage. Get a designated driver and drink these til the hula girls come home.<br />
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The <b>Rosebud </b>is an unusual flavor combination as it is made with house-made hibiscus liqueur, Benedictine, lime juice, Reposade tequila, and topped with Fever Free lite tonic water. The flower garnish matches the hue of the cocktail, which is lightly fizzy due to the tonic water. The flavor is tart and berry and light. If you like the Mexican drink Jamaica, you will enjoy this, if not, steer clear because despite its color, this is no Cosmo.<br />
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<b>La Brigada</b> is another Murillo creation, this one inspired by her family trips to Baja California. It includes mezcal, homemade agave liqueur, fresh pineapple and lime juices served over crushed ice with a shard of frozen coconut water. It is also garnished with a chicharron (unpictured) garnish. The mezcal provides a smoky element and takes what could have been a sweet drink into more complex territory. The use of the chicharron is a whimsical touch, that showcases Murillo's creativity and her reputation as one to watch.<br />
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The <b>Southern Belle Whistle </b>is a collaboration from Greg Gertmenian and pastry chef Jeff Haines. The whistle is a bottled soda pop made with with fresh yellow peaches, floral sweet black tea, and 1886 Buffalo Trace bourbon. It is fun to open up a bottle and smell the sweet scent of peaches as they bring old fashioned soda pop into the 21st century in a playful way. As Weise has developed expertise in beer cocktails, Gertmenian may be the premiere bottled cocktail mixologist in town.<br />
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The <b>Strawberry Paleta</b> created by McKechnie is my favorite cocktail on the menu. Despite its appearance, this is no kiddie treat, but an adult popsicle that is nothing short of extraordinary. Garrett has taken a traditional Latin summer dessert and innovated it by putting fresh strawberries, cream and "a healthy dose of rum" in -300 degree Farenheit liquid nitrogen, creating something very special. Served in a glass with a fresh strawberry, the creamy popsicle is boozy and refreshing at the same time. As this is the first of their rotating summer paleta "pop shop", I can't wait to see what they have in store next.<br />
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Peter Lloyd Jones and McKechnie worked together to create the <b>Summer Shrub Fizz</b>. Fizzes seem to be everywhere this year; they are alcoholic beverages with a vinegar base. With the egg white froth, the texture of this cocktail is key as is the contrast between the strawberry shrub and the meyer lemon essence. The kick comes from both demerara rum and London Dry Gin. It is a smooth and attractive addition to the menu.<br />
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For those looking for a classic stirred cocktail, look no further than the <b>Dutch Kills</b>, created by Eveleigh head barman Dave Kupchinsky. This cocktail is especially apropos for 1886 as it includes Bols Genever, which Tello has evangelized. Barrel Aged Bols Genever, Italian vermouth, bitters and a dash of apricot liqueur are all stirred together with ice in a shaker before being poured into a cocktail glass. The barrel aging of the Genever gives this cocktail extra depth.<br />
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<b>BBC </b>aka Bols Genever Basil Collins is a simple drink of Bols Genever with lemon juice, basil, sugar and carbonated water. Light and easy sipping, this Marcos Tello cocktail is just right for sitting on the 1886 patio and enjoying the sun go down on a warm Pasadena day.<br />
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The perfect snack to munch on while sipping on the summer cockails are the house-made potato chips, which are crunchy and unlike some chips, not oily at all. The signature 1886 spicy ketchup is served with it to keep things interesting.<br />
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If you are hungrier for a more substantial meal, the best choice is the Roasted Lamb Necks & Afghan Bread. The lamb is spiced with vadouvan and roasted til tender. No knife is necessary to cut through the meat. The afghan bread is similar to a lavash and with three dips, you can season the dish to your liking.<br />
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My favorites on the list are the Strawberry Paleta and the Tranquilizer but you can't go wrong with this menu. Get to 1886 while you can. Fall is rapidly approaching, and with it more exciting cocktails.</div>
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1886 at the Raymond</div>
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1250 S. Fair Oaks Avenue, Pasadena | 626.441.3136 | <a href="http://www.theraymond.com/">www.theraymond.com</a></div>
Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-44962361340574324992012-08-23T17:13:00.000-07:002012-08-23T17:13:05.715-07:00Bow & Truss Brings Cocktails to NoHo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://bowandtruss.com/">Bow and Truss</a> opened last month in the NoHo Arts District in North Hollywood, bringing the second notable beverage spot to the neighborhood following the opening of the Federalist Bar last year. The owners brought on the team of Aidan Demarest, Marcos Tello and Garrett McKechnie of Tello Demarest Liquid Assets to develop the cocktail program, including creating the list and training the staff. The trio, who collaborated most notably at 1886 and who have had a hand in many of the top cocktail programs around the city, have developed a pleasing menu, heavy on sherry cocktails, to pair with the Spanish food. Bow & Truss describes itself as a Spanish Taverna and serves a menu of Spanish cheeses, tapas and paellas.<br />
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The Bow & Truss take on the <b>Fog Cutter</b>, a tiki classic that originated at Trader Vic's is not to be missed. The cocktail is refreshing, and as with many tiki drinks, quite potent. The base spirit is Zaya Rum, and brandy, orgeat, citrus juice and cream sherry and garnished with fresh mint round out the ingredients and make for a bit of the tropics. Perfect if you are fortunate to be sitting outside on the spacious patio.<br />
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Another highlight on the cocktail menu is the <b>Dolores Park Swizzle</b>, which was created by Thomas Waugh of Death & Co in New York, when he worked at The Alembic in San Francisco. It is named after the popular park in the Mission neighborhood of San Francisco and is made with Milagro Anejo Tequila, Amontillado Sherry, ginger and lime juice, and garnished with fresh mint. The cocktail is made using a swizzle stick to get the wonderful melding of flavors. The Amontillado Sherry reminded me of the Edgar Allan Poe short story the Cask of Amontillado, although unlike the poor nobleman Fortunato, you will fare far better after sipping on this delight.<br />
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A proprietary cocktail, the <b>Amestoy Swizzle</b>, is named after the last family of Basque ranchers to farm the Encino Rancho, and is a true tribute to Spain with Spanish Brandy, Amontillado Sherry, Velvet Falernum and apple juice and is served in a tall ice filled glass and garnished with a slice of apple. The cocktail is food friendly and the apple notes play well with the brandy and sherry.<br />
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My final recommendation is the <b>Sherry Cobbler</b>, made with East India Sherry, Curacao, and berries of the season. Curacao stands in for sugar in this version and it is easy to see how this was the most popular cocktail in America in the latter part of the 19th century. The light cocktail highlights the sherry and the fruit mellows it out. This would make a wonderful aperitif.<br />
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Bow & Truss should be commended for including sherry in every single signature cocktail on the menu. Sherry is an under-appreciated ingredient in cocktails, and thanks to pioneers like Alex Day it is making a resurgence. Marcos and Aidan have another winner on their hands and have brought quality cocktails to another neighborhood that needed their assistance. McKechnie, of 1886, brings a strong element of service and a notable palate to the venture as well.</div>
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With the recent heatwave, cocktails outdoors at Bow & Truss are a great way to end the summer and continue into fall. North Hollywood lucked out with this one.</div>
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Bow & Truss: 11122 Magnolia Blvd, North Hollywood | 818.985.8787 | <a href="http://bowandtruss.com/">www.bowandtruss.com</a></div>
Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-67054691861733755292012-08-23T14:24:00.002-07:002012-08-23T14:24:54.872-07:00Inaugural LA Fried Chicken Fest this Sunday <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Fried chicken is on the rise. It may be the pork belly of 2012. In the continuing wave of upscale comfort food, whether fancy burgers or macaroni and cheese, fried chicken is enjoying its day in the sun. A well deserved high profile after soaking in deep fryers for many long years paying its dues. This Sunday will be the premiere of the <a href="http://www.lafriedchickenfest.com/">L.A. Fried Chicken Fest</a>, at the Coop (aka Gonpachi) on La Cienega in Beverly Hills.</div>
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Nine of LA's most popular and talented chefs will each be making their own take on Fried Chicken (that is eight versions as Marcel Vigneron and Haru Kishi are collaborating on their dish). There will be Asian, Latin and European takes on the American classic. The list of participating chefs is a whose who of recent award winners, such as Ricardo Zarate from Mo Chica and Pica and Bryant Ng of the Spice Table, who won Food & Wine Magazine's Best New Chef in 2011 and 2012, respectively. </div>
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Tickets are $55 and are in limited supply. No tickets will be sold at the door. So get on the waitlist or do what you gotta do, as this fest is not to be missed. Sunday, August 26th from 4 - 8 pm. Where else will you get to see Beverly Hills housewives chowing down on golden bird? Plus there is a charity component as 10% of proceeds will benefit Share Our Strength. This is going to be one finger lickin' good afternoon.</div>
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134 N. La Cienega Blvd, Beverly Hills. <a href="http://www.lafriedchickenfest.com/">www.lafriedchickenfest.com</a></div>
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<br />Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-49866211623111149362012-08-03T16:45:00.001-07:002012-08-03T16:45:41.350-07:00Still thinking about the Foie @ Mezze<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Micah Wexler has a way with foie. My last bite of foie before the ban began was the Foie Gras Terrine at Mezze, the Mediterranean restaurant on La Cienega where Chef Wexler . Crushed pistachios, grapefruit wedges and flowers all provided for both a visual and flavorful oomph of harmony. The texture was creamy and perfect. Rich but not maddeningly so. This is the first foie dish I will look forward to when foie becomes legal again.Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-53537111542211836792012-08-03T16:30:00.002-07:002012-08-03T16:30:44.328-07:00Red Sun BBQ Comes to the Sunset StripOverlooking the hubbub of the Sunset Strip, yet just above the mayhem, is <a href="http://www.innovativedining.com/restaurants/katana">Katana</a>, the Japanese robata and sushi bar. I was recently invited to visit their Red Sun BBQ, the weekly bbq party held on their patio each Sunday during the summer. The patio is inviting and has a large seating area with tables as well as a lounge area with lower seating and coffee tables. Lights are projected onto the building, which faces the famous Mondrian Hotel.<br />
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Highlights of the Red Sun BBQ menu include Yuzu Edamame ($5) which are pleasantly spicy with more of a kick than one would expect, which comes from the yuzukosho spice mix made from chili peppers, yuzu rind and salt.<br />
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My favorite portion of the menu was the fish selections, which in addition to Oysters on the Half Shell from the raw bar, also features Albacore Cannoli, Yellowtail Fresca, and a Koji Roll. The Cannoli was a fun take on the classic Italian dessert, with a crunchy cannoli tube shell, filled with albacore sashimi, Maui onions, cucumber and a yuzu guacamole. The crunch of the tube provided a great textural contrast to the contents. Yellowtail fresca is a Latin take on sashimi as it is served with fresh lime juice and cilantro.<br />
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A visit to the Red Sun BBQ at Katana is not complete without the Salmon Tartare on Crispy Rice. This signature dish of the restaurant is not specifically on the Red Sun menu but is available to those who ask and is not to be missed. Katana does spicy right, whether in the Edamame, the Salmon Tartare or the Mustard (below), the chefs do not shy away from heat and I commend that. Spicy tuna or spicy salmon is often good but rarely truly spicy. This version is and also benefits from the crunchiness of the crispy rice.<br />
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The menu also includes several selections from the robata bar, such as Kuributa Sausage Skewers with Karashi Mustard, Kurobuta Ribs and 40 Day Dry Aged New York Steak. The Karashi Mustard served with the sausage skewer was a hit at my table due to its potent blend of ground mustard seeds and horseradish. This sauce was powerful, and is not to be taken lightly. The dry aged steak is cooked over bincho charcoals with a soy garlic sauce.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kurobuta Ribs</td></tr>
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Four signature cocktails are available. They are by and large too sweet for my taste, although I found the Inochi Mizu, made with vodka, cucumber and lychee to be refreshing. That is the best of the cocktails, though some of this izakaya style food lends itself better to beer, which is also available.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inochi Mizu</td></tr>
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The seafood such as the oysters and the albacore were highlights:<br />
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<b>Red Sun BBQ at Katana</b><br />
Sunday evenings through Labor Day: 8439 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood | 310.650.8585 | <a href="http://www.innovativedining.com/restaurants/katana">http://www.innovativedining.com/restaurants/katana</a><br />
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<br />Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-17654615131684685232012-07-22T15:14:00.000-07:002012-07-22T15:14:22.018-07:00Superba Snack Bar: Jason Neroni Resurfaces<a href="http://superbasnackbar.com/">Superba Snack Bar</a> opened on Thursday evening to crowds that have been enthusiastic, packing the small restaurant from opening til close (midnight on weekends). The new project from Chef Jason Neroni, formerly of <a href="http://www.savoryhunter.com/2011/04/first-impression-jason-neroni-at.html">Osteria La Buca</a>, is located on Rose Avenue, just East of Main Street at the border of Santa Monica and Venice. The menu has an Italian focus and is divided into Cold Cuts (cured meats etc), Snacks, From Our Backyards (vegetables) and From Our Hands (house-made pasta). The dishes are small plates and meant to be shared and while no substitutions are permitted, they do offer gluten-free pasta in a nod to the many celiac and gluten-sensitive folks in their demographic.<br />
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Five "cold cuts" are on offer and they are priced $8 for 1, $18 for 3, or $25 for all 5. The term "cold cuts" brings up images of deli platters and casual sandwich buffets. These are nothing of the sort, but rather meats and terrines that Neroni has cured or prepared in-house. <b>Julia's chicken liver mousse</b> is served with balsamic cherries (note they still contain the pits) and is scooped out of a container like a perfect quenelle shaped chocolate ice cream when plated. This is no ice cream, but silky chicken liver that spreads easily on the provided toast. Even better is the<b> Duck rillette</b> with tarragon and pickled green strawberries. The rlilette is served in a jar, is packed with flavor and has a pleasing texture.<br />
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The snacks section of the menu includes pan con tomato, olive oil and sea salt (2 pieces for $8) and an ocean trout crudo that looked beautiful and which I would have ordered, but it had chorizo oil in it but with the no modifications rule, this wasn't an option for me. <b>Fried duck egg</b>, papas bravas, truffle vinaigrette & tuna prosciutto is a savory treat with the runny yolk coating the potatoes below and the duck prosciutto (they were out of tuna proscuitto) adding another textural element as well as richness to the dish.<br />
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The vegetables Neroni serves come from farmers who grow the produce for him, or from the farmers market. The most umami of the veggie options is the <b>Cherry tomatoes</b>, dashi broth, smoked tofu and shiso/basil. This lovechild of agedashi tofu and a cherry tomato salad is a highlight of the menu. The dashi broth is better than at most Japanese restaurants and the smoked tofu paired with the ripe cherry tomatoes is an inspired combination. One would be remiss in not ordering this dish, and in leaving any drops of broth left in the bowl.<br />
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Pasta dishes have become Neroni's signature and they have a pride of place on the Superba menu. The bucatini with carbonara, pancetta, milled black pepper and Aracuna egg and the Gnocchi with burrata and broccoli necks are the most frequently ordered so far. The <b>Garganelli with lamb bolognese</b>, black garlic, ricotta salata and mint is a hearty dish and a satisfying end the main part of the meal. The pasta was cooked to a pleasing degree of doneness and the meaty sauce clung to it well and the proportion of sauce to pasta was spot on.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Dining Room @ Superba Snack Bar</td></tr>
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Desserts are available, although I did not sample any on my visit. The room is comfortable, with a chef's counter, and a mix of indoor and outdoor seating. There is a large print on one wall with a repeating stylized pattern of holding hands. The wine program while small is well thought out and includes several unusual bottles, such as a Greek white wine. The atmosphere is conducive to stopping in for a light snack or a full meal, although if the restaurant continues to be packed - I can't see customers be willing to endure a long wait just to get a snack.<br />
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Currently Superba Snack bar is open for dinner seven nights a week from 5 pm - 11pm (midnight on weekends) and lunch and brunch will follow later once they get a handle on dinner service.<br />
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Well worth checking out. Note that while I was recognized, this was not a hosted meal.<br />
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Superba Snack Bar: 533 Rose Avenue, Venice | 310.399.6400 | <a href="http://superbasnackbar.com/">superbasnackbar.com</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-47585256234754030652012-06-17T13:55:00.001-07:002012-06-22T17:45:03.191-07:00Art Beyond the Glass: Today!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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If you want to see the full talents of Los Angeles's cocktail community and support a great cause then there is no better place to be this afternoon and evening than Sadie, the site of the inaugural <a href="http://thirstyinla.com/2012/06/03/june-17-art-beyond-the-glass/">Art Beyond the Glass</a> fundraiser. Tickets are $50 at the door, cash only. Daniel Djang of ThirstyinLA and Zahra Bates of Providence created this event to celebrate the many talents of the bartenders in Los Angeles and to benefit Inner-City Arts.<br />
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So many bartenders create cocktails that are worthy of being described as works of art. Beyond that a number of bartenders, and liquor industry vets are artists in their own right, beyond what they mix in a drink. Whether it is chalk art from Justin Pike of the Tasting Kitchen, live music from Erik Trickett of Roe Restaurant (former head bartender at 320 Main), DJ skills of Steve Livigni and Dave Fernie of Pour Vous or the magic skills of Josh Lucas of the Writer's Room, there will be perfromances to delight all of the senses. <br />
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The event runs from 3 pm - 8 pm and includes cocktails from 30+ bartenders, music, performances, art and spirits tastings and nibbles from Sadie chef Mark Gold. This is literally the event of the year for cocktail aficionados in Los Angeles, so whether you have been wanting to try cocktails from Julian Cox of Sotto/Playa/Rivera/Short Order, Matt Biancaniello of Library Bar, Sangrita from Cari Ha and Jaymee Mandeville, now is your chance. At $50 the event is a bargain for 5 hours of deliciousness and festivities.<br />
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Sadie: 1638 N. Las Palmas Ave, Hollywood | 323.467.0200 | <a href="http://www.sadiela.com/">www.SadieLA.com</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-40464456337217567652012-06-07T14:42:00.000-07:002012-06-07T14:42:10.412-07:00Taste of the Nation: This Sunday in West Hollywood<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This Sunday from 1 - 4 pm the annual <a href="http://ce.strength.org/events/taste-nation-los-angeles">Taste of the Nation</a> fundraiser moves to The Lot in West Hollywood to raise money for Share our Strength, the charity devoted to ending childhood hunger. 100% of all money raised will go to local Los Angeles food banks, which have seen increased demand during the long recession.<br />
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More than 40 restaurants will be participating, including newcomers such as <a href="http://www.cliffsedgecafe.com/">Cliff's Edge</a>, <a href="http://www.nightmarketla.com/">NIGHT + MARKET</a> and <a href="http://cookscountyrestaurant.com/Home.html">Cooks County</a> as well as classics such as <a href="http://www.campanilerestaurant.com/">Campanile </a>and <a href="http://joesrestaurant.com/">Joe's</a>.
Libations are given even more prominence this year, with many local bars, mixologists and craft brewers participating. The Spare Room at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel will be featuring <a href="http://www.plymouthgin.com/">Plymouth Gin</a> cocktails, Harvard & Stone will be featuring <a href="https://www.facebook.com/miraclemilebitters">Miracle Mile Bitters</a> and St. George Spirits and for the folks in the VIP tent, Steve Livigni, Pablo Moix and the whole Pour Vous team will be making a bevy of French influenced cocktails. There will be a Craft Beer Tent, which this year is focusing on collaborations between breweries and beer bars. Pairings include the <a href="http://www.thebruery.com/">Bruery </a>and <a href="http://beerbellyla.com/">Beer Belly</a> as well as <a href="http://www.ommegang.com/">Brewery Ommegang</a> and <a href="http://thegoldenstatecafe.com/">The Golden State</a>.<br />
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Tickets for the event are $25 for children 12-18 years old and $110 for adults. VIP tickets are $160. You can purchase tickets <a href="http://ce.strength.org/events/taste-nation-los-angeles">here </a>- just click on the large "purchase tickets" link on the Taste of the Nation blog. Organizers have said that few tickets remain and they expect to see out, so I recommend you purchase your admission tickets quickly so you don't miss out on supporting a great cause and getting to try so many great restaurants and bars.
Prepaid parking is $25.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waylynn Lucas of Fonuts at a prior Taste of the Nation</td></tr>
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Taste of the Nation: 1041 N. Formosa, West Hollywood | June 10th, 1 - 4 pm | <a href="http://ce.strength.org/events/taste-nation-los-angeles">Website</a></div>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-26186553562994474882012-06-05T17:26:00.002-07:002012-06-05T17:26:39.382-07:00Tonight at Sadie: Suntory Time!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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San Francisco bartender Neyah White, the Suntory whiskey West Coast Brand Ambassador, will be holding court this evening at Sadie, the Hollywood restaurant and hot spot. He will be guest bartending at Sadie tonight, the first in a planned series of guest bartenders. Not only will he be making signature cocktails with the Hibiki, Yamazaki and Hakushu whiskeys, but there will be other special elements.<br />
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If the Suntory whiskey is not enough of a draw, there will be a Japanese ice carving demonstration in which blocks of ice are carved into perfect spheres. Sadie beverage director Gio Martinez described the Japanese style of service as "one gesture of appreciation after another. The act of taking the time to make perfectly shaped ice shows attention to detail and service that is so admirable and cool."<br />
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Your chance to experience the Bill Murray of whiskeys is tonight from 7 - 11 pm at Sadie. I have tried these whiskeys and am a fan; these are truly delicious. White is very understated and Martinez is the consummate host, so tonight should be a blast. Kampai!<br />
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The Parlor at Sadie: 1638 N. Las Palmas, Hollywood | 323.467.0200 | <a href="http://www.sadiela.com/">www.sadiela.com</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-22870596117272908522012-05-30T14:30:00.000-07:002012-05-30T14:30:01.181-07:00Mo-Chica Now Open on 7th Street<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ricardo Zarate, the Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chef of 2011, has opened the new incarnation of his original restaurant <a href="http://mo-chica.com/">Mo-Chica</a> on 7th Street in the heart of Downtown LA. The restaurant, which was previously in the food court Mercado La Paloma near USC has migrated to larger shnazzier quarters across the street from Mas Malo and Seven Grand and next door to Bottega Louie. Mo-Chica serves a modern interpretation of Peruvian cuisine, with some Japanese influence. </div>
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A new addition to the Mo Chica menu is a cocktail program designed by Deysi Alvarez of Picca, Chef Zarate's more upscale restaurant near Beverly Hills. The list is short with six cocktails and has one standout, the <b>Oaxacalifornia Love </b>(pictured above right). This cocktail is a mix of mezcal, tequila, lime juice and pineapple gomme. The mezcal provides a spicy and smokey element that elevates the drink. The <b>Pisco Sour</b> is also recommended.<br />
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During a recent friends and family meal I had the opportunity to try several dishes on the menu. A highlight was the <b>Colita de Res</b> ($14), a savory oxtail dish that was packed with flavor. The grain it is served on top of, trigo de mote, was a great accompaniment. This is a must order. Another dish which shouldn't be missed is the <b>Pan Con Tuna</b> ($10). Spicy tuna, rocoto sauce and yuzu mayo are served on top of grilled bread. A simple take on spicy tuna but is absolutely new and delicious. This may be the next spicy tuna on crispy rice.<br />
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There are both communal tables and individual tables at the new Mo-Chica. The interior feels spacious and even includes another room in back for additional seating. The location is on a happening block is well situated for dropping in for a bite while sampling the many cocktail bars nearby. Some will miss the haimish vibe of the Mercado, others will embrace the larger canvas the 7th Street location affords. Zarate reopened Mo-Chica with his front of the house business partner Stephane Bombet who was everywhere on my visit, ensuring that this opening goes smoothly. This may be the only place in town to try Alpaca while sipping on a craft cocktail. That alone is reason to visit.<br />
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Mo-Chica: 514 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.622.3744 | <a href="http://mo-chica.com/">www.mo-chica.com</a><br />
<br />Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-55739076725441400032012-05-01T17:01:00.000-07:002012-05-01T17:01:33.751-07:00Derby Day Is Upon Us: Seersucker & Hats WelcomeThis Saturday is the first leg of the Triple Crown of horse racing, better known as the Kentucky Derby. At 3:23 on Saturday afternoon, the field of horses will begin their one and one quarter mile race to win the prize at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky. Fortunately you do not need to be in Louisville to experience the pagentry and excitement of this legendary race. Several venues here in Los Angeles will be hosting viewing parties, two of which are of particular note:<br />
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Hollis Bulleit, the heiress to the Bulleitt bourbon empire, will be hosting her annual derby party at <a href="http://213nightlife.com/sevengrand">Seven Grand Whiskey Bar</a> in Downtown LA. Admission is $20 and attendees will get to munch on barbeque and sip on mint juleps crafted with Bulleit bourbon. The event is a benefit for <a href="http://www.speed-rack.com/">Speed Rack</a>, which supports female bartenders with breast cancer. The first hundred folks through the door will receive a special glass and prizes will be awarded for best hat and best bow tie and seersucker. I have attended this event in the past and can vouch that it is a good time. Nobody has better hats than Hollis.<br />
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For those whom one type of julep is not enough, Marcos Tello will be mixing a variety of cocktails at the Los Angeles Athletic Club's 2nd Annual "<a href="http://www.laac.com/default.aspx?p=.NETEventView&ID=2925536&qfilter=&type=0&ssid=158341&chgs=">Hold Your Horses" Kentucky Derby viewing party</a>. Entry to this fest includes an extensive Kentucky Derby inspired buffet (think Kentucky hot brown sandwiches, pecan tarts etc), a Marcos Tello handcrafted mint julep, live music from the Bastards of Belleville (a gypsy jazz quartet), and games. As a bonus, attendees will receive a free drink at Seven Grand following their Hold Your Horses fest attendance. In addition to his trifecta of juleps (Gin, Georgia and Kentucky), Tello will also be pouring whiskey flights. Tickets are $35 and reservations can be made by calling (213) 630-5255.<br />
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Tello's juleps include a Gin Julep with inspired by Harry Johnson's 1882 bar manual that includes Bols Genever as its base, a Georgia Julep with Remy Martin VSOP Cognac and a Kentucky Mint Julep with the classic bourbon base. All the juleps will include the traditional mint leaves and if you haven't had one from Marcos, then this is an opportunity not to be missed.<br />
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Either way you can't go wrong as you get to sip on mint juleps, eat some rather tasty Kentucky cooking, dress in your finest hats and seersucker and turn two minutes of race viewing into a whole afternoon's worth of adventure.<br />
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Seven Grand: 515 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.614.0736 | <a href="http://213nightlife.com/sevengrand">http://213nightlife.com/sevengrand</a><br />
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LA Athletic Club: 431 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.630.5255 | <a href="http://www.laac.com/default.aspx?p=.NETEventView&ID=2925536&qfilter=&type=0&ssid=158341&chgs=">LAAC event website</a></div>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-49293943824183493522012-04-19T18:58:00.002-07:002012-04-19T18:58:16.199-07:00Bringing Sexy Back: Pour Vous Debuts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://www.pourvousla.com/">Pour Vous</a> is bringing sexy back. Hollywood has undergone a resurgence but not since the days of Classic Hollywood has there been a venue this sexy in town. La Descarga has sizzle but Pour Vous has a transporting effect. Led by Head Bartender Dave Fernie (above), Pour Vous also benefits from a surfeit of talent behind the bar including Lindsay Nader, Adrian Biggs and Devon Espinosa, plus the team of Pablo Moix and Steve Livigni who worked with the Houston brothers to design and open this boîte.<br />
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The space was taken down to the studs and then some with a new bar, a new lowered seating area and a dramatic glass domed ceiling all part of the design scheme which evokes a soigné Parisian haunt where you might find Juliette Binoche at the next barstool. Pour Vous is not only French in name and decor but in its cocktails and spirits selection; it has what may be the largest selection of Cognac and Armagnac in any bar in the United States.<br />
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In what has become a signature touch for Houston/Livigni/Moix establishments, there is an indoor/outdoor smoking area, in this case a converted trolley which thankfully isn't hurtling down the 110 Freeway at high speed. My fellow intrepid enthusiast <a href="http://carolineoncrack.com/">Caroline on Crack</a> is pictured below on the steps of the soon to be infamous trolley.<br />
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One of the most eye catching cocktails at Pour Vous is the <b>Moulin Rouge</b>, below. A sparkling cocktail made with Grey Goose vodka, aperol, Peychaud's bitters, orgeat, lemon juice, lime juice, fresh strawberry purée and champagne. Garnished with a strawberry and with champagne bubbles floating up with each sip (no sparkling wine here, this is Pour Vous) the Moulin Rouge was designed for seduction.<br />
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In a classical French touch, (though it is not on the menu) a Pousse-café is available to those wanting a layered drink. The eye catching beverage is rather sweet but is certain to gain the attention of those around you. The cocktail is made by layering ingredients of different densities from heaviest to lightest in the glass.<br />
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The menu of 25 cocktails is just the beginning; Livigni commented that he plans to add several dozen more to the list in the coming months. This may already be the largest list of craft cocktails in town and it is impressive that they have so many recipes in reserve. <b>The Samurai,</b> one of my favorites on the list, is indeed a powerful warrior, ready to attack with drawn sword. It is quite evident from the first sip that this is a savory wonder as Armagnac, raspberry, rhubarb and umami combine in this cutting stirred cocktail. This might just be a meal in a glass.<br />
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Another highlight is the The <b>Lapin Fou</b> (below), which translates as the Mad Rabbit and is made with Pear Eau de Vie, carrot juice, lemon juice, Velay Jaune, ginger and garnished with a slice of cucumber. This comes from the "Sante" or healthy section of the menu. The other four categories of cockails are Aperitif, Parfum, Potion, and Par Avion. Orange juice in a cocktail? Jamba Juice this was not. The pear brandy and herbal notes of the Velay Jaune were tempered by the juices. This was a surprising cocktail that exceeded expectations and one I'd order again.<br />
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<b>L'Indochinois</b> has an entirely different style of cucumber garnish as the delicate slice is meant to float like a boat on the sea of <a href="http://leitesculinaria.com/76763/writings-bonal.html">Bonal</a>, lime juice and Curacao with Thai Basil as the sail on the voyage. The cocktail is from the Par Avion category and was one of Espinosa's creations.<br />
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Pour Vous is a collaborative effort between the six bartenders who each bring their own style to the common goal of quality cocktails with a nod to France and the use of French liqueurs and ingredients whenever possible. We were fortunate to have Lindsay Nader (below) make some of our cocktails, along with Fernie. The team is truly a Murderers' Row of talent, with each bartender more accomplished than the next. You literally can't go wrong with a cocktail from any of them.<br />
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There is nothing wrong with a well made Sazerac, but the <b>Sazerac Fix</b> provides a unique take on the classic that may entice more sippers into sampling the original. Rather than being served in a coupe, it is served in a rocks glass with a piece of "big ice" and lemon juice is added to the rye, bitters, pastis, evaporated cane sugar.<br />
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If drinking a <b>Sur La Mer</b> (Beneath the Sea) is a way to stay healthy, then I may trade in my vitamins. Rum, lime juice, E3 living algae, Fresca, salt and evaporated cane sugar combine to form this healthy daiquiri. The frothy cocktail has a strong citrus (lime) flavor and is garnished with the twisted peel of a lime. Very refreshing and has a lot of visual appeal.<br />
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Management warned that the door was going to be tough at Pour Vous but they are not attempting to be like certain spots off Hollywood Blvd where you are either on the list or not going to get in; they just want patrons to dress nicely. When a venue has gone through so much effort to get dolled up, the least you can do is return the favor. The service is very hospitable, the drinks are delicious and the vibe is wonderful. à votre santé!<br />
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Pour Vous: 5574 Melrose Avenue, Hollywood | 323.960.0301 | <a href="http://www.pourvousla.com/">www.pourvousla.com</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-14870353338955460972012-04-19T16:21:00.000-07:002012-04-19T16:21:21.241-07:00The Best Port in A Storm: Cliff's Edge Tonight<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Port brings to mind the ruby colored wine you might have with your cheese course after a tasting menu or perhaps the contents of a crystal decanter in your grandfather’s study. Leave your preconceptions behind as tonight at <a href="http://www.cliffsedgecafe.com/">Cliff’s Edge</a> you have the opportunity to see the range of ports and to try them in a series of cocktail and punch recipes from <a href="http://www.davidwondrich.com/">Dave Wondrich</a>, the author of <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Punch-Delights-Dangers-Flowing-Bowl/dp/0399536167">Punch</a>. Lorenzo Bakewell-Stone, the Global Brand Ambassador for Croft Port is in town and will be hosting an evening of port cocktails at Cliff’s Edge, the Silver Lake restaurant helmed by chef Ben Bailly. Along with the more established Ruby, Tawny and White ports, Croft Pink, the first Rose port will be incorporated into a cocktail. Two small plates, dessert, two port cocktails and a flight of port can all be yours for only $50. If that sounds like too much food and drink or too many ducats for your budget, you can try any of the 5 port cocktails or punches on offer for only $7 at the bar.
Ben Bailly earned acclaim for his food at Petrossian and Fraiche and so tonight should be a fun opportunity to see what he has been up to in the kitchen at Cliff’s Edge. Bakewell-Stone represents some of the most well regarded ports including Taylor-Fladgate, Croft and Fonseca. He is in town from Porto, Portugal, from whence the wine gets its name. Whether you stop by for a cocktail or a full on meal, it will be an opportunity to see one of the latest cocktail trends firsthand as port may follow sherry as a fortified wine that becomes an essential and intriguing cocktail ingredient.
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Cliff's Edge: 3636 West Sunset Blvd, Silver Lake | 323.666.6116 | <a href="http://www.cliffsedgecafe.com/">http://www.cliffsedgecafe.com/</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-68625547708324835142012-04-08T12:11:00.001-07:002012-04-09T14:18:47.654-07:00Umamicatessen: A Tale of Two Sandwiches<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.umami.com/umamicatessen/">Umamicatessen </a>is the latest and largest property in Adam Fleischman's rapidly expanding restaurant empire. The DTLA spot is on Broadway just off of 9th Street and is several restaurants in one: the Umami Burger concept, The Cure, a Kosher-style Jewish deli offering which Mezze Chef Micah Wexler collaborated on the bagels, smoked fish and matzoh ball soup, Pigg, a love letter to all things pork done in collaboration with noted San Francisco nose-to-tail chef Chris Cosentino of Incanto, and donuts from & a [donut], along with a cocktail program designed by Aidrian Biggs of La Descarga and Pour Vous.</div>
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You can order from all the concepts wherever you sit in the restaurant. On this visit I explored the Cure section of the menu. The <b>Matzoh Ball Soup</b> ($7) is rich, the broth is darker than typical and contains chicken cracklings, pieces of chicken as well as celery. The matzoh ball itself was light and fluffy. This may be the meatiest matzoh ball soup in town and is recommended for Passover and beyond.</div>
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The pastrami sandwich ($12) is referred to as <b>Pastrami, Rye, Mustard</b> on the menu and it is a simple sandwich that just contains those three ingredients. The meat is thickly sliced and while not piled high Carnegie Deli style, is more than ample for a meal if you have some soup. The thick slices of the meat, the spicy kick of the mustard overwhelm the thinly sliced rye bread. Wexler and team have cured an excellent pastrami, and when Langer's isn't open (which is dinner any night, plus all day on Sunday) this may be the best spot in town to get a pastrami sandwich.<br />
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Alas the corned beef, listed on the menu as <b>Corned Beef, Rye, Mustard</b> ($12) was not nearly as good. In fact it was not delicious at all: the corned beef was chewy and had an unpleasant texture. It also lacked the flavor of a great corned beef sandwich from Langer's, Brent's or even Nate and Al's. The pickle was nicely sharp though. What may be the best deal on the menu is the pickle plate (unpictured), which though on the Umami Burger section of the menu dovetails nicely with the Cure section and at $5 is a generous portion.<br />
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After the highs and lows of the sandwiches, the & a [donut] menu beckoned. The Tres Leches donut ($4) was irresistible, especially as Nguyen Tran of Starry Kitchen had recommended it. The donuts are fried to order and the menu states that customers need to wait five minutes for the sauces to soak into the donut. The Tres <b>Leches, Cajeta, Ceylon Cinnamon (cake)</b> was delicious and is sized for two people to share, although one hungry person could certainly inhale it, as I did. It was unclear to me if the menu was stating that the diner needed to wait five minutes once the donut was presented at the table to eat it, but the waitress clarified that the sauce had soaked in for five minutes in the kitchen and that once it arrived at the table it was ready to eat.<br />
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A mild annoyance was that though I arrived during weekend brunch hours and the restaurant was mostly empty, the hostess was very reluctant to seat me at a table as I was alone. She listed every possible counter seating locale but finally relented and seated me at a table as I had asked. Not a fun way to begin any meal.<br />
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I will not be trying the Pigg menu but look forward to trying more of the other items, especially the Foie donuts and Adrian Bigg's cocktails, on future visits. In short, get the matzoh ball soup, the pastrami sandwich and the tres leches donut, skip the corned beef.<br />
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Umamicatessen: 852 S. Broadway, DTLA. | 213.413.8626 | <a href="http://www.umami.com/umamicatessen/">http://www.umami.com/umamicatessen/</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-25382784073330648482012-04-08T11:25:00.000-07:002012-04-08T11:25:13.980-07:00Night and the City and other Spring Cocktails at Drago CentroJaymee Mandeville has presided over the cocktail program at Drago Centro for two years, but recently her partner in libations, Drago Centro Beverage Director Michael Shearin, left the restaurant. The newly launched Spring cocktail menu is her first where she had truly complete control over her seasonal cocktail offerings and this list may be her best yet. It includes several collaborations with her fellow bartender Jen Len. Mandeville hosted a preview tasting of the list and while there are a number of delicious choices on the list, the highlight of the menu is the <b>Night and the City</b>. <br />
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The Night and the City is made with Hayman's Old Tom Gin, Bittermens Hellfire Habanero Shrub, Miracle Mile Candy Cap Mushroom Bitters, house-made heirloom tomato shrub, plack pepper and squid ink syrup and fresh horseradish. This take on a Bloody Mary transcends the genre with the amazing Candy Cap bitters from Louis Anderman's local Miracle Mile Bitters. The savory element in the bitters melds with the spice from the Hellfire shrub, which Mandeville described as more of a tincture, and the acidity in Mandeville's tomato shrub all carried on the base of the distinct sweet and juniper flavor of the Old Tom Gin. The pepper on the rim and the horseradish in the glass complete the unique combination. A pickled watermelon radish garnish might be gilding the lily but in this case it is simply the cherry on top of an irresistible cocktail.<br />
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My other favorite on the menu is the <b>Nebbia Rossa</b> (above), an original variation on the Negroni using Mezcal instead of Gin, made with Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Campari, Bittermens Citron Sauvage, Dolin Blanc Vermouth. The mezcal adds a smoky note to the cocktail and the grapefruit liqueur pairs nicely with both the mezcal and the bitter campari. A stirred refreshing drink that is an excellent way to welcome the warm Spring weather to Los Angeles.<br />
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Other highlights on the new list also include the <b>Cool Revival</b>, made with Rittenhouse Rye, Cynar, yuzu, cucumber, lemon and dill meringue (below) and the <b>Ver la Luz del Dia </b>which is a pisco and Lillet cocktail that has a strong basil element and an attractive triple peal garnish.<br />
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The garnishes this season are more ambitious than on previous Drago cocktail menus and include coffee beans and honeycomb among others. I recommend you sit at the bar and place yourself in Jaymee's hands. You can't go wrong. Plus you can munch on bar bites such as the smoked salmon, which is a steal at only $5. All cocktails on the seasonal list are $12.<br />
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Drago Centro: 525 S. Flower St. | 213.228.8998 | <a href="http://dragocentro.com/">dragocentro.com</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-70443963025136035902012-03-23T17:17:00.000-07:002012-03-23T17:17:20.588-07:00Ammo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://www.ammocafe.com/">Ammo Cafe</a> on Highland has been open for over 15 years, a discreet restaurant on Highland where locals and celebrities alike enjoy the reasonably priced quality Italian food in an unpretentious and comfortable ambiance. Earlier this winter, the restaurant decided to raise its cocktail program to the level of its dining room menu by bringing on Jason Robey to consult on their cocktail list.<br />
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Robey, who gained notice in Los Angeles for reinventing the cocktail program at Michael's Restaurant in Santa Monica, has created a tasty list that draws on the local produce available at the farmer's markets, which both reflects his style and is a good match for the Ammo culinary philosophy. Running the bar program is Laila Ayad, who executes Robey's list well and is excellent at the art of hospitality. I am a fan of Robey's cocktails so was intrigued to see what was in store for me when I was invited to try the new menu.<br />
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The <b>Johnny Green Spot</b> (above) made with Tierra's anejo tequila, green chartreuse, meyer lemon juice, grapefruit juice, jalapeno and Thai basil was among the best cocktails I have had anywhere in the past year. This is a destination worthy drink as the spicyness of the pepper and the tartness of the juices partnered with the herbal chartreuse and the kick of the tequila to just produce a beautiful combination. Six ingredients can be the sign of too much going on in a cocktail, but I wouldn't lose any of them in this beauty.<br />
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Beer cocktails are having a moment right now, and the <b>Belgian Sunrise</b> deserves its place among the contenders as it uses not one but two brews in this cocktail. Both Allagash White Ale and Lindemans Lambic Framboise mixed with Frambeau Liquor. It is well constructed and the fruit in the beer mixed with the liquor gave it a sweet edge, which complemented the bubbles from the beer.<br />
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The smell of the burnt rosemary is the first aspect of the <b>Maple Leaf Rag</b> to hit your senses. Black Maple Hill bourbon is a delicious product and mixed with lemon juice, maple syrup and bitters and finished with the aforementioned rosemary was a sensory experience that was both fragrant and delicious. It may not replace the <b>Japanese Maple</b> created by Damian Windsor at the Roger Room as my favorite maple syrup cocktail, but it is a worthy libation.<br />
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At $18, the <b>Grand Rep</b> is the most expensive cocktail on the menu, due to the inclusion of the premium Ilegal Mezcal Reposado. Ilegal is one of my favorite mezcals so I couldn't resist trying this smoky take on the margarita which also included Gran Marnier, lime juice, vanilla and applewood smoked salt. Yes, smoked salt. Because the smokiness of the mezcal was not enough. Be sure to get some salt in every sip.<br />
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Alas even the Willet 5 Year Rye could not salvage the <b>Citrus Fashioned</b> (below) which also included lemon, orange and tangerine zest, maraschino jus and bitters. I'd stick with a classic Old Fashioned any day over this concoction which did no favors to its similarly named relation as it was a watery mess.<br />
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The <b>Highland Fizz</b> (below) is effervescent as the house made ginger soda lightens up the lemon verbena infused vodka. Nothing to get excited about but suitable for a mellow mood.<br />
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When light and bubbly is what you seek the <b>Blood Orange Crush</b> is a better option. This Belle Casel Prosecco, Aperol, blood orange juice and fresh thyme is served on the rocks in a Collins glass with a blood orange slice garnish. This is a classic Italian flavor combination and is pleasing as an aperitif or with a meal.<br />
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Another favorite, this time of the stirred variety, is the <b>Dominicano</b>, which is made with Citadelle gin and both Dolin Blanc and Rouge vermouths, Aperol and orange bitters. Crisp and to the point, it was fun to see the incorporation of two Dolins in one cocktail.<br />
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The final cocktail on the list is the <b>Sage Martini</b> with Hendrick's Gin, lemon juice, lime juice and sage.<br />
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Fortunately there are bar bites to munch on that are great partners for the beverages. The standouts for me were:<br />
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<b>French breakfast radishes</b> with Straus butter and sea salt ($4). Sometimes simple ingredients with no fuss at all can be better than anything else and these radishes were simply crunchy and fresh. A little butter and salt; I could have eaten the whole bunch.<br />
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The bread and <b>crackers </b>are not to be missed at Ammo ($3). Apparently these crackers are a signature dish and they are addictive.<br />
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<b>Baked Penne </b>with aged white cheddar, fresh thyme and breadcrumbs ($8) is not to be missed. My companions and I were battling for each forkful. This puts what passes for mac and cheese in most restaurants in LA to shame.<br />
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Bar Manager Laila sent us into the night with some chocolate chip cookies which were really good. The chunks of chocolate in the cookies were huge and they were a pleasant consistency - neither too soft nor too hard and crumbly. </div>
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The neighborhood is lucky to have a Robey cocktail menu to sip on and Laila there to shake, stir and deliver an excellent experience behind the bar. That Johnny Green Spot is something special.<br />
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Ammo: 1115 N. Highland Ave, Mid City | 323.871.2666 | <a href="http://www.ammocafe.com/">www.ammocafe.com</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-30078752950542329372012-03-15T16:44:00.001-07:002012-03-15T16:44:14.183-07:00Jiro Dreams of Sushi: A Trip to Tokyo at the Movies<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Jiro Dreams of Sushi is a new documentary film directed by David Gelb that chronicles the life of Jiro Ono, one of the best if not the best sushi chefs in Japan. The movie not only tells his story but also that of his family, particularly that of his heir and apprentice, his son Yoshikazu. Jiro is 85 years old and still leads his restaurant daily. <br />
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The restaurant looks nondescript and those not in the know might not pay any notice to the little ten seat sushi bar in a Tokyo subway station. But looks can be deceiving. Jiro is a master who has been making sushi for decades and whose apprentices have gone on over the years to open some of the most highly regarded sushi establishments in Japan. To get to experience Jiro's sushi, one must make a reservation long in advance, have a big budget and be prepared to eat quickly. <br />
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Meals begin at $350 excluding beverages and consist of a series of 20 pieces of sushi one after the other. Jiro states that improvement is always possible and so each day he attempts to make the best sushi of his life. After several months of waiting from when customers make reservations, their meal may be over in as little as thirty minutes. Each piece of nigiri sushi is formed just so, with a precise amount of rice, an appropriate amount of wasabi added and then the fish draped on top with just a drizzle of soy sauce added on top with a paintbrush. Needless to say this is a "no soy sauce" type of establishment.<br />
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Jiro's dedication has led to an interesting relationship between him and his son as the son has waited for decades for his father to retire, so he can finally be the head sushi chef. I cannot imagine the patience that the son Yoshikazu endures nor the phenomenal drive that still pushes Jiro to come into the restaurant day after day when he could be enjoying his retirement, traveling on the gourmet circuit or spending time with his family.<br />
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When I walked out of the screening I was craving sushi. Just watching Jiro prepare piece after piece of the highest quality fish was mouthwatering. Food porn at its finest. It was too late to get sushi that night, but I stopped in at Irori the following evening to get my fix. It was quite good, but not quite the Jiro experience.<br />
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Here in Los Angeles, Jiro opens at the Nuart Theater in West LA on Friday March 16th. It is already open in New York City and will shortly be opening in cinemas nationwide. Don't go hungry or prepare for your own sushi craving.<br />
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A clip is below:<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/G2edsT-HCjE" width="853"></iframe>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-91676094874898149712012-03-15T16:12:00.001-07:002012-03-15T16:12:30.053-07:00Blogger Bar Hop 2: The Mustache Ride<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Last year bar impresario Aidan Demarest and Plymouth & Beefeater Gin Brand Ambassador Erick Castro led a group of cocktail bloggers on a journey across Los Angeles in the <a href="http://www.savoryhunter.com/2011/03/blogger-bar-hop-i-lived-to-tell-tale.html">Trolley of Death</a>. This year the trolley was nowhere to be seen; in its place was the infamous Mustache Ride, only partly named for Castro's legendary stache. The van that ferried us from bar to bar like thirsty lushes had an enormous mustache on the front of its grille, the better to deliver a full service and satisfying experience. Blogger Bar Hop 2 was on!</div>
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The evening began at <b>Neat</b>, Demarest's bar in Glendale, where head bartender Arash Pakzad used Beefeater 24 to create a special cocktail with Spam and rosemary which were then torched to imbue the cocktail with their scent.<br />
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The next stop on the adventure was the <b>Golden Road Brewery</b>, where we munched on giant (enormous) pretzels that were served with legitimately spicy mustard. To wash it down we sipped on pitchers of their signature Point the Way IPA and Hefeweizen. Golden Road is only a short ride from Neat and it was a chance for two new neighbors to celebrate their openings and for us to get some foodstuffs in our bellies.<br />
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Aidan kept us on track, so we could be on time for our third stop at <b>Tiki Ti,</b> the home of Tiki cocktails in Los Angeles since 1961. For 50+ years, Tiki Ti has been located in the same small spot on Sunset Blvd in Los Feliz. It is only open four nights a week (Wednesday through Sunday) as the only employees are family members. The small capacity can sometimes lead to lines at the door but Aidan had made arrangements and our merry band of revelers was welcomed with a round of potent cocktails that made us thankful for our designated mustache driver.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tiki Ti in all its glory</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Above Caroline on Crack enjoys her cocktail while Daniel Djang of ThirstyInLA photographs his beverage.</td></tr>
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Below is a closeup of the cocktail from Tiki Ti before it was consumed, rapidly and gleefully.<br />
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Tiki Ti is cash only and thankfully there was enough cash on hand among the sponsors to pay for our cocktails as they don't take credit cards, even the Pernod Ricard corporate card. Bartender Marcos Tello joined us at this point as Tiki Ti is his favorite bar, and he couldn't resist joining in the festivities.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marcos Tello, Aidan Demarest and Erick Castro at the Three Clubs</td></tr>
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Three Clubs was the fourth stop on our journey and it was nothing but efficient. We walked into an almost empty bar and took it over. The bartender lined up ten martini glasses at the corner of the bar and proceeded to shake dirty martinis into all of them. Within minutes of downing our chilled martinis, we were back on the bus. There was no perusing the jukebox for tunes as we had to stick to the schedule as there were many bars still to come.<br />
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Number five is alive, or our adventure at <b>Bar Marmont</b>: We found a robot made from liquor bottles and bar tools such as spoons, shakers and strainers. The robot begged us to take him with us when left. We got some light snacks and sipped on champagne cocktails but were not permitted the use of cameras inside. The doorman/management was rather rude about the whole thing, so I cannot recommend this establishment. Alas we have no pictures of our new robot friend, due to the camera prohibition. I can only hope that he has escaped rather than be decommissioned.<br />
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Our spirits were revived and hunger and thirst addressed at the <b>Eveleigh</b>, where head bartender Dave Kupchinsky prepared a bevvy of farm fresh cocktails with Beefeater 24 and blood oranges at our sixth stop. There was also a beautifully laid table of cheeses and oysters. While I could not partake of the shellfish, they looked beautiful as did everything else Chef Toft prepared for us. Kupchinsky's cocktail was a highlight of the evening.<br />
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Above, the Eveleigh cocktails. Below bloggers in our crew celebrated at the Eveleigh.<br />
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Ah <b>Skybar</b>. The seventh stop on our magical journey turned out to be a lame detour. They gave our group much grief at the door before finally letting us in on the condition we do bottle service. Once we were seated on a large bed adjacent to a couple who thought they were in their room with the drapes closed based on how they acted, we discovered that they were unwilling to sell us a bottle of Beefeater, despite prior arrangements having been made. We had had enough and decamped to the eighth stop, an audible of <b>Harvard & Stone</b>.<br />
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Harvard & Stone was rocking on this Saturday night, which was also the farewell session for Lindsay Nader at the R&D bar there. Bartenders such as Jaymee Mandeville and Nader's Pour Vous compatriot Devon Espinosa were there to show their love and the energy level rose to a crescendo. Any annoyance at Skybar was forgotten as we celebrated the wonderful talent of LA's cocktail community with hardcore bloggers, talented bartenders and delicious spirits. Such a great bonus that our final stop before returning to Neat included so many people who have worked to develop the cocktail scene in LA including those mentioned above, Pablo Moix of La Descarga and Alex Straus "in the House" of Hemingway's.<br />
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The ninth and final stop of the evening was back at <b>Neat</b>, where thanks to Caroline I was able to partake of one final round of beverages, as she was gracious enough to provide me a ride back. Erick, Aidan and Caroline organized a blast of an evening. This time there were no altercations with homeless people and we kept to the schedule; needless to say this was a classic night. Good times to hop across town on a magic mustache ride with @carolineoncrack @thirstyinla @mikeprasad @squashblossom @mattatouille @LAOCfoodie and @foodgpsAaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-56259558184073079232012-03-10T11:30:00.000-08:002012-03-15T16:14:19.264-07:00ColLAboration Winter 2012<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://www.collaboration.la/">ColLAboration</a>, the pop-up mobile craft beer garden from the collective fevered imaginations of LA's leading beer bar owners, finally held their Winter event on Oscar Sunday. The fest, which had been delayed several months, more than made up for the delay with a doozy of a location and lineup of brews, including the ever elusive Pliny the Younger from Russian River and Dogfish Head World Wide Stout.</div>
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The location was the Belasco Theater, a classic from 1926 that was known for its burlesque revues in the 1940s and was extensively renovated to the tune of $12 million before it reopened last year as a party space. This was the first of the ColLAborations to be held indoors and it was a dramatic location with the tiers of balconies overlooking the main taps areas on the floor. There were also several outdoor patios which were quite popular on this sunny afternoon.</div>
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There were longer lines than at some of the prior events in the series; perhaps because of greater attendance. Strange Brew played on a continuous loop to entertain the thirsty attendees. Beers were sold via tokens, which were $6 each or 4 for $20. This event premiered the new ColLAboration goblet glasses. Your glass is your entry ticket at ColLAboration, so it makes sense to keep your glass from prior events. </div>
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This was my first time trying the Pliny the Younger, which has developed a cult status over the past few years, as it is time consuming and expensive for Russian River to make, leading to small quantities produced. The scarcity factor and reputation for deliciousness, along with the "passport stamp" effect in which drinkers want to try the latest hot thing has led to ever increasing ridiculousness each February when the Younger is released. The Double IPA is rather delicious; it is hoppy but not a smack in the face. Very tasty, but I can't recommend waiting in line for hours to try it, especially when there are so many other great beers out there. Fortunately they handled their Pliny allocation well at ColLAboration by releasing it at staggered times at each of the three different bars, without notice. This gave everyone a shot at trying it for themselves, and also ensured that the beer didn't disappear within minutes of the event's beginning.<br />
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Above, Ryan Sweeney of Verdugo Bar, Surly Goat and Little Bear enjoyed a beer on the upstairs patio during a break in the action. Below the four collaborators/hosts toasted to the success of a well attended and well beveraged event.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo courtesy Helen Springut</td></tr>
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I heard that the next ColLAboration event should happen later this spring. Stay tuned for details.<br />
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Learn more about ColLAboration at their website: <a href="http://www.collaboration.la/">www.collaboration.la</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-31665967012740275702012-03-09T17:55:00.000-08:002012-03-09T17:55:10.357-08:00Bone Marrow Custard at Craft<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Bone marrow is one of the most delicious and decadent foods imaginable. It is literally the tissue in the middle of the bone and in cuisine, beef bones are most commonly used. The bones are often roasted and the marrow takes on an almost liquid gelatinous quality. Typically it is served in either vertical cylinders with small spoons to scoop it out, or in a trough, which is popular for bone luges.</div>
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When I got word that on rare occasions <a href="http://www.craftrestaurantsinc.com/craft-los-angeles/">Craft Restaurant</a> makes a <b>Bone Marrow Custard</b> I was more than intrigued; I was drooling. I soon made arrangements to try this dish for myself. Chef Ray England prepared this "meat butter", which was served with two pieces of toast and a red wine sauce. This dish was extremely rich and lived up to its meat butter nickname. I managed to eat this portion all by myself (perhaps not something to brag about) as I couldn't bear any of it to go to waste and I was solo for this adventure.</div>
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The aroma of the custard was heavenly. The eggs gave the custard a wonderful texture and it spread easily on the warm grilled toast. I soon ran out of toast, but before they could bring more, I had devoured the dish completely. This dish practically begs for a Lipitor chaser, but a glass of red wine was the perfect accompaniment. The bone marrow custard at Craft is 100% decadence and bliss on a plate.<br />
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Craft Los Angeles: 10100 Constellation Blvd, Century City. | 310.279.4180 | <a href="http://www.craftrestaurantsinc.com/craft-los-angeles/">website</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7071923594108023675.post-64520117835744690742012-01-30T12:43:00.000-08:002012-01-30T12:43:32.990-08:00Katsu at Kagura (Torrance)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Torrance and Koreatown may be the two neighborhoods/cities in Southern California with the greatest concentration of specialist restaurants due to their concentration of Japanese and Korean restaurants and the popularity of such restaurants in those cultures. Kagura in Torrance is arguably the preeminent Katsu specialist; in addition to pork katsu, there is chicken katsu and a millefeuille pork katsu, which like the pastry has layer upon layer within the breading, only in this case layers of sliced black pork loin cutlet, not pastry. If you prefer your fried food in seafood form, oyster cutlets, salmon cutlets and crab cream croquette are all available to be fried to order.<br />
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I recently had the Chicken Oroshi Katsu Gozen lunch ($12.95) which is a deep fried free range chicken cutlet served with a radish ponzu sauce. The accompaniments are sliced cabbage, steamed grain rice, pickled vegetables, tofu and another veggie. A pork miso soup was also included but was not sampled.<br />
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The cutlet itself was a thing of beauty. Lightly fried, the cutlet arrived on a metal grate, so that the breading would not separate from the chicken cutlet due to steam and to facilitate saucing. The breading was nice and crispy and remarkably free of grease. The radish ponzu sauce added to the salty crunchy flavor by adding another layer of taste as well as cooling the piping hot katsu. The cutlet itself is quite large; this is not a light lunch, more the type of meal you want to come home and take a nap after eating.<br />
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Service was friendly and efficient and everyone in the restaurant seemed to be eating katsu of some form or another. Toyko Katsu is written on the sign above the name of the restaurant, in case you were wondering what to order. <br />
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Kagura: 1652 Cabrillo Avenue @ Carson St, Torrance. 310.787.0227 | <a href="http://www.littletokyorestaurant.com/kagura_main.htm">Kagura Website</a>Aaron Tellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13951284364626069875noreply@blogger.com1