Superba Snack Bar: Jason Neroni Resurfaces

Superba Snack Bar opened on Thursday evening to crowds that have been enthusiastic, packing the small restaurant from opening til close (midnight on weekends).  The new project from Chef Jason Neroni, formerly of Osteria La Buca, is located on Rose Avenue, just East of Main Street at the border of Santa Monica and Venice.  The menu has an Italian focus and is divided into Cold Cuts (cured meats etc), Snacks, From Our Backyards (vegetables) and From Our Hands (house-made pasta).  The dishes are small plates and meant to be shared and while no substitutions are permitted, they do offer gluten-free pasta in a nod to the many celiac and gluten-sensitive folks in their demographic.

Five "cold cuts" are on offer and they are priced $8 for 1, $18 for 3, or $25 for all 5.  The term "cold cuts" brings up images of deli platters and casual sandwich buffets.  These are nothing of the sort, but rather meats and terrines that Neroni has cured or prepared in-house.  Julia's chicken liver mousse is served with balsamic cherries (note they still contain the pits) and is scooped out of a container like a perfect quenelle shaped chocolate ice cream when plated.  This is no ice cream, but silky chicken liver that spreads easily on the provided toast.  Even better is the Duck rillette with tarragon and pickled green strawberries.  The rlilette is served in a jar, is packed with flavor and has a pleasing texture.

The snacks section of the menu includes pan con tomato, olive oil and sea salt (2 pieces for $8) and an ocean trout crudo that looked beautiful and which I would have ordered, but it had chorizo oil in it but with the no modifications rule, this wasn't an option for me.  Fried duck egg, papas bravas, truffle vinaigrette & tuna prosciutto is a savory treat with the runny yolk coating the potatoes below and the duck prosciutto (they were out of tuna proscuitto) adding another textural element as well as richness to the dish.

The vegetables Neroni serves come from farmers who grow the produce for him, or from the farmers market.  The most umami of the veggie options is the Cherry tomatoes, dashi broth, smoked tofu and shiso/basil.  This lovechild of agedashi tofu and a cherry tomato salad is a highlight of the menu.  The dashi broth is better than at most Japanese restaurants and the smoked tofu paired with the ripe cherry tomatoes is an inspired combination.  One would be remiss in not ordering this dish, and in leaving any drops of broth left in the bowl.

Pasta dishes have become Neroni's signature and they have a pride of place on the Superba menu.  The bucatini with carbonara, pancetta, milled black pepper and Aracuna egg and the Gnocchi with burrata and broccoli necks are the most frequently ordered so far.  The Garganelli with lamb bolognese, black garlic, ricotta salata and mint is a hearty dish and a satisfying end the main part of the meal.  The pasta was cooked to a pleasing degree of doneness and the meaty sauce clung to it well and the proportion of sauce to pasta was spot on.

The Dining Room @ Superba Snack Bar

Desserts are available, although I did not sample any on my visit.  The room is comfortable, with a chef's counter, and a mix of indoor and outdoor seating.  There is a large print on one wall with a repeating stylized pattern of holding hands.  The wine program while small is well thought out and includes several unusual bottles, such as a Greek white wine.  The atmosphere is conducive to stopping in for a light snack or a full meal, although if the restaurant continues to be packed - I can't see customers be willing to endure a long wait just to get a snack.

Currently Superba Snack bar is open for dinner seven nights a week from 5 pm - 11pm (midnight on weekends) and lunch and brunch will follow later once they get a handle on dinner service.

Well worth checking out.  Note that while I was recognized, this was not a hosted meal.

Superba Snack Bar: 533 Rose Avenue, Venice | 310.399.6400 | superbasnackbar.com

Art Beyond the Glass: Today!

If you want to see the full talents of Los Angeles's cocktail community and support a great cause then there is no better place to be this afternoon and evening than Sadie, the site of the inaugural Art Beyond the Glass fundraiser.  Tickets are $50 at the door, cash only.  Daniel Djang of ThirstyinLA and Zahra Bates of Providence created this event to celebrate the many talents of the bartenders in Los Angeles and to benefit Inner-City Arts.

So many bartenders create cocktails that are worthy of being described as works of art.  Beyond that a number of bartenders, and liquor industry vets are artists in their own right, beyond what they mix in a drink.  Whether it is chalk art from Justin Pike of the Tasting Kitchen, live music from Erik Trickett of Roe Restaurant (former head bartender at 320 Main), DJ skills of Steve Livigni and Dave Fernie of Pour Vous or the magic skills of Josh Lucas of the Writer's Room, there will be perfromances to delight all of the senses.

The event runs from 3 pm - 8 pm and includes cocktails from 30+ bartenders, music, performances, art and spirits tastings and nibbles from Sadie chef Mark Gold.  This is literally the event of the year for cocktail aficionados in Los Angeles, so whether you have been wanting to try cocktails from Julian Cox of Sotto/Playa/Rivera/Short Order, Matt Biancaniello of Library Bar, Sangrita from Cari Ha and Jaymee Mandeville, now is your chance.  At $50 the event is a bargain for 5 hours of deliciousness and festivities.

Sadie: 1638 N. Las Palmas Ave, Hollywood | 323.467.0200 | www.SadieLA.com

Taste of the Nation: This Sunday in West Hollywood

This Sunday from 1 - 4 pm the annual Taste of the Nation fundraiser moves to The Lot in West Hollywood to raise money for Share our Strength, the charity devoted to ending childhood hunger. 100% of all money raised will go to local Los Angeles food banks, which have seen increased demand during the long recession.

More than 40 restaurants will be participating, including newcomers such as Cliff's Edge, NIGHT + MARKET and Cooks County as well as classics such as Campanile and Joe's. Libations are given even more prominence this year, with many local bars, mixologists and craft brewers participating. The Spare Room at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel will be featuring Plymouth Gin cocktails, Harvard & Stone will be featuring Miracle Mile Bitters and St. George Spirits and for the folks in the VIP tent, Steve Livigni, Pablo Moix and the whole Pour Vous team will be making a bevy of French influenced cocktails. There will be a Craft Beer Tent, which this year is focusing on collaborations between breweries and beer bars. Pairings include the Bruery and Beer Belly as well as Brewery Ommegang and The Golden State.

Tickets for the event are $25 for children 12-18 years old and $110 for adults. VIP tickets are $160. You can purchase tickets here - just click on the large "purchase tickets" link on the Taste of the Nation blog. Organizers have said that few tickets remain and they expect to see out, so I recommend you purchase your admission tickets quickly so you don't miss out on supporting a great cause and getting to try so many great restaurants and bars. Prepaid parking is $25.

Waylynn Lucas of Fonuts at a prior Taste of the Nation

Taste of the Nation: 1041 N. Formosa, West Hollywood | June 10th, 1 - 4 pm | Website

Tonight at Sadie: Suntory Time!

San Francisco bartender Neyah White, the Suntory whiskey West Coast Brand Ambassador, will be holding court this evening at Sadie, the Hollywood restaurant and hot spot.  He will be guest bartending at Sadie tonight, the first in a planned series of guest bartenders.  Not only will he be making signature cocktails with the Hibiki, Yamazaki and Hakushu whiskeys, but there will be other special elements.

If the Suntory whiskey is not enough of a draw, there will be a Japanese ice carving demonstration in which blocks of ice are carved into perfect spheres.  Sadie beverage director Gio Martinez described the Japanese style of service as "one gesture of appreciation after another.  The act of taking the time to make perfectly shaped ice shows attention to detail and service that is so admirable and cool."

Your chance to experience the Bill Murray of whiskeys is tonight from 7 - 11 pm at Sadie.  I have tried these whiskeys and am a fan; these are truly delicious.  White is very understated and Martinez is the consummate host, so tonight should be a blast.  Kampai!

The Parlor at Sadie: 1638 N. Las Palmas, Hollywood | 323.467.0200 | www.sadiela.com

Mo-Chica Now Open on 7th Street

Ricardo Zarate, the Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chef of 2011, has opened the new incarnation of his original restaurant Mo-Chica on 7th Street in the heart of Downtown LA.  The restaurant, which was previously in the food court Mercado La Paloma near USC has migrated to larger shnazzier quarters across the street from Mas Malo and Seven Grand and next door to Bottega Louie.  Mo-Chica serves a modern interpretation of Peruvian cuisine, with some Japanese influence. 

A new addition to the Mo Chica menu is a cocktail program designed by Deysi Alvarez of Picca, Chef Zarate's more upscale restaurant near Beverly Hills.  The list is short with six cocktails and has one standout, the Oaxacalifornia Love (pictured above right).  This cocktail is a mix of mezcal, tequila, lime juice and pineapple gomme.  The mezcal provides a spicy and smokey element that elevates the drink.  The Pisco Sour is also recommended.

During a recent friends and family meal I had the opportunity to try several dishes on the menu.  A highlight was the Colita de Res ($14), a savory oxtail dish that was packed with flavor.  The grain it is served on top of, trigo de mote, was a great accompaniment.  This is a must order.  Another dish which shouldn't be missed is the Pan Con Tuna ($10).  Spicy tuna, rocoto sauce and yuzu mayo are served on top of grilled bread.  A simple take on spicy tuna but is absolutely new and delicious.  This may be the next spicy tuna on crispy rice.

There are both communal tables and individual tables at the new Mo-Chica.  The interior feels spacious and even includes another room in back for additional seating.  The location is on a happening block is well situated for dropping in for a bite while sampling the many cocktail bars nearby.  Some will miss the haimish vibe of the Mercado, others will embrace the larger canvas the 7th Street location affords.  Zarate reopened Mo-Chica with his front of the house business partner Stephane Bombet who was everywhere on my visit, ensuring that this opening goes smoothly.  This may be the only place in town to try Alpaca while sipping on a craft cocktail.  That alone is reason to visit.

Mo-Chica: 514 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.622.3744 | www.mo-chica.com

Derby Day Is Upon Us: Seersucker & Hats Welcome

This Saturday is the first leg of the Triple Crown of horse racing, better known as the Kentucky Derby.  At 3:23 on Saturday afternoon, the field of horses will begin their one and one quarter mile race to win the prize at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky.  Fortunately you do not need to be in Louisville to experience the pagentry and excitement of this legendary race.  Several venues here in Los Angeles will be hosting viewing parties, two of which are of particular note:

Hollis Bulleit, the heiress to the Bulleitt bourbon empire, will be hosting her annual derby party at Seven Grand Whiskey Bar in Downtown LA.  Admission is $20 and attendees will get to munch on barbeque and sip on mint juleps crafted with Bulleit bourbon.  The event is a benefit for Speed Rack, which supports female bartenders with breast cancer.  The first hundred folks through the door will receive a special glass and prizes will be awarded for best hat and best bow tie and seersucker.  I have attended this event in the past and can vouch that it is a good time.  Nobody has better hats than Hollis.

For those whom one type of julep is not enough, Marcos Tello will be mixing a variety of cocktails at the Los Angeles Athletic Club's 2nd Annual "Hold Your Horses" Kentucky Derby viewing party.  Entry to this fest includes an extensive Kentucky Derby inspired buffet (think Kentucky hot brown sandwiches, pecan tarts etc), a Marcos Tello handcrafted mint julep, live music from the Bastards of Belleville (a gypsy jazz quartet), and games.  As a bonus, attendees will receive a free drink at Seven Grand following their Hold Your Horses fest attendance.  In addition to his trifecta of juleps (Gin, Georgia and Kentucky), Tello will also be pouring whiskey flights.  Tickets are $35 and reservations can be made by calling (213) 630-5255.

Tello's juleps include a Gin Julep with inspired by Harry Johnson's 1882 bar manual that includes Bols Genever as its base, a Georgia Julep with Remy Martin VSOP Cognac and a Kentucky Mint Julep with the classic bourbon base.  All the juleps will include the traditional mint leaves and if you haven't had one from Marcos, then this is an opportunity not to be missed.

Either way you can't go wrong as you get to sip on mint juleps, eat some rather tasty Kentucky cooking, dress in your finest hats and seersucker and turn two minutes of race viewing into a whole afternoon's worth of adventure.

Seven Grand: 515 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.614.0736 | http://213nightlife.com/sevengrand

LA Athletic Club: 431 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.630.5255 | LAAC event website

Bringing Sexy Back: Pour Vous Debuts

Pour Vous is bringing sexy back.  Hollywood has undergone a resurgence but not since the days of Classic Hollywood has there been a venue this sexy in town.  La Descarga has sizzle but Pour Vous has a transporting effect.  Led by Head Bartender Dave Fernie (above), Pour Vous also benefits from a surfeit of talent behind the bar including Lindsay Nader, Adrian Biggs and Devon Espinosa, plus the team of Pablo Moix and Steve Livigni who worked with the Houston brothers to design and open this boîte.

The space was taken down to the studs and then some with a new bar, a new lowered seating area and a dramatic glass domed ceiling all part of the design scheme which evokes a soigné Parisian haunt where you might find Juliette Binoche at the next barstool.  Pour Vous is not only French in name and decor but in its cocktails and spirits selection; it has what may be the largest selection of Cognac and Armagnac in any bar in the United States.

In what has become a signature touch for Houston/Livigni/Moix establishments, there is an indoor/outdoor smoking area, in this case a converted trolley which thankfully isn't hurtling down the 110 Freeway at high speed.  My fellow intrepid enthusiast Caroline on Crack is pictured below on the steps of the soon to be infamous trolley.

One of the most eye catching cocktails at Pour Vous is the Moulin Rouge, below.  A sparkling cocktail made with Grey Goose vodka, aperol, Peychaud's bitters, orgeat, lemon juice, lime juice, fresh strawberry purée and champagne.  Garnished with a strawberry and with champagne bubbles floating up with each sip (no sparkling wine here, this is Pour Vous) the Moulin Rouge was designed for seduction.

In a classical French touch, (though it is not on the menu) a Pousse-café is available to those wanting a layered drink.  The eye catching beverage is rather sweet but is certain to gain the attention of those around you.  The cocktail is made by layering ingredients of different densities from heaviest to lightest in the glass.

The menu of 25 cocktails is just the beginning; Livigni commented that he plans to add several dozen more to the list in the coming months.  This may already be the largest list of craft cocktails in town and it is impressive that they have so many recipes in reserve.  The Samurai, one of my favorites on the list,  is indeed a powerful warrior, ready to attack with drawn sword.  It is quite evident from the first sip that this is a savory wonder as Armagnac, raspberry, rhubarb and umami combine in this cutting stirred cocktail.  This might just be a meal in a glass.

Another highlight is the The Lapin Fou (below), which translates as the Mad Rabbit and is made with Pear Eau de Vie, carrot juice, lemon juice, Velay Jaune, ginger and garnished with a slice of cucumber.  This comes from the "Sante" or healthy section of the menu. The other four categories of cockails are Aperitif, Parfum, Potion, and Par Avion.  Orange juice in a cocktail?  Jamba Juice this was not.  The pear brandy and herbal notes of the Velay Jaune were tempered by the juices.  This was a surprising cocktail that exceeded expectations and one I'd order again.

L'Indochinois has an entirely different style of cucumber garnish as the delicate slice is meant to float like a boat on the sea of Bonal, lime juice and Curacao with Thai Basil as the sail on the voyage.  The cocktail is from the Par Avion category and was one of Espinosa's creations.

L'Indochinois

Pour Vous is a collaborative effort between the six bartenders who each bring their own style to the common goal of quality cocktails with a nod to France and the use of French liqueurs and ingredients whenever possible.  We were fortunate to have Lindsay Nader (below) make some of our cocktails, along with Fernie.  The team is truly a Murderers' Row of talent, with each bartender more accomplished than the next.  You literally can't go wrong with a cocktail from any of them.

There is nothing wrong with a well made Sazerac, but the Sazerac Fix provides a unique take on the classic that may entice more sippers into sampling the original.  Rather than being served in a coupe, it is served in a rocks glass with a piece of "big ice" and lemon juice is added to the rye, bitters, pastis, evaporated cane sugar.

Sazerac Fix

If drinking a Sur La Mer (Beneath the Sea) is a way to stay healthy, then I may trade in my vitamins.  Rum, lime juice, E3 living algae, Fresca, salt and evaporated cane sugar combine to form this healthy daiquiri.  The frothy cocktail has a strong citrus (lime) flavor and is garnished with the twisted peel of a lime.  Very refreshing and has a lot of visual appeal.

Management warned that the door was going to be tough at Pour Vous but they are not attempting to be like certain spots off Hollywood Blvd where you are either on the list or not going to get in; they just want patrons to dress nicely.  When a venue has gone through so much effort to get dolled up, the least you can do is return the favor.  The service is very hospitable, the drinks are delicious and the vibe is wonderful.  à votre santé!

 Pour Vous: 5574 Melrose Avenue, Hollywood | 323.960.0301 | www.pourvousla.com