Bow and Truss opened last month in the NoHo Arts District in North Hollywood, bringing the second notable beverage spot to the neighborhood following the opening of the Federalist Bar last year. The owners brought on the team of Aidan Demarest, Marcos Tello and Garrett McKechnie of Tello Demarest Liquid Assets to develop the cocktail program, including creating the list and training the staff. The trio, who collaborated most notably at 1886 and who have had a hand in many of the top cocktail programs around the city, have developed a pleasing menu, heavy on sherry cocktails, to pair with the Spanish food. Bow & Truss describes itself as a Spanish Taverna and serves a menu of Spanish cheeses, tapas and paellas.
The Bow & Truss take on the
Fog Cutter, a tiki classic that originated at Trader Vic's is not to be missed. The cocktail is refreshing, and as with many tiki drinks, quite potent. The base spirit is Zaya Rum, and brandy, orgeat, citrus juice and cream sherry and garnished with fresh mint round out the ingredients and make for a bit of the tropics. Perfect if you are fortunate to be sitting outside on the spacious patio.
 |
| Fog Cutter |
Another highlight on the cocktail menu is the
Dolores Park Swizzle, which was created by Thomas Waugh of Death & Co in New York, when he worked at The Alembic in San Francisco. It is named after the popular park in the Mission neighborhood of San Francisco and is made with Milagro Anejo Tequila, Amontillado Sherry, ginger and lime juice, and garnished with fresh mint. The cocktail is made using a swizzle stick to get the wonderful melding of flavors. The Amontillado Sherry reminded me of the Edgar Allan Poe short story the Cask of Amontillado, although unlike the poor nobleman Fortunato, you will fare far better after sipping on this delight.
 |
| Dolores Park Swizzle |
A proprietary cocktail, the
Amestoy Swizzle, is named after the last family of Basque ranchers to farm the Encino Rancho, and is a true tribute to Spain with Spanish Brandy, Amontillado Sherry, Velvet Falernum and apple juice and is served in a tall ice filled glass and garnished with a slice of apple. The cocktail is food friendly and the apple notes play well with the brandy and sherry.
 |
| Amestoy Swizzle |
My final recommendation is the
Sherry Cobbler, made with East India Sherry, Curacao, and berries of the season. Curacao stands in for sugar in this version and it is easy to see how this was the most popular cocktail in America in the latter part of the 19th century. The light cocktail highlights the sherry and the fruit mellows it out. This would make a wonderful aperitif.
 |
| Sherry Cobbler |
Bow & Truss should be commended for including sherry in every single signature cocktail on the menu. Sherry is an under-appreciated ingredient in cocktails, and thanks to pioneers like Alex Day it is making a resurgence. Marcos and Aidan have another winner on their hands and have brought quality cocktails to another neighborhood that needed their assistance. McKechnie, of 1886, brings a strong element of service and a notable palate to the venture as well.
With the recent heatwave, cocktails outdoors at Bow & Truss are a great way to end the summer and continue into fall. North Hollywood lucked out with this one.
