Superba Snack Bar: Jason Neroni Resurfaces

Superba Snack Bar opened on Thursday evening to crowds that have been enthusiastic, packing the small restaurant from opening til close (midnight on weekends).  The new project from Chef Jason Neroni, formerly of Osteria La Buca, is located on Rose Avenue, just East of Main Street at the border of Santa Monica and Venice.  The menu has an Italian focus and is divided into Cold Cuts (cured meats etc), Snacks, From Our Backyards (vegetables) and From Our Hands (house-made pasta).  The dishes are small plates and meant to be shared and while no substitutions are permitted, they do offer gluten-free pasta in a nod to the many celiac and gluten-sensitive folks in their demographic.

Five "cold cuts" are on offer and they are priced $8 for 1, $18 for 3, or $25 for all 5.  The term "cold cuts" brings up images of deli platters and casual sandwich buffets.  These are nothing of the sort, but rather meats and terrines that Neroni has cured or prepared in-house.  Julia's chicken liver mousse is served with balsamic cherries (note they still contain the pits) and is scooped out of a container like a perfect quenelle shaped chocolate ice cream when plated.  This is no ice cream, but silky chicken liver that spreads easily on the provided toast.  Even better is the Duck rillette with tarragon and pickled green strawberries.  The rlilette is served in a jar, is packed with flavor and has a pleasing texture.

The snacks section of the menu includes pan con tomato, olive oil and sea salt (2 pieces for $8) and an ocean trout crudo that looked beautiful and which I would have ordered, but it had chorizo oil in it but with the no modifications rule, this wasn't an option for me.  Fried duck egg, papas bravas, truffle vinaigrette & tuna prosciutto is a savory treat with the runny yolk coating the potatoes below and the duck prosciutto (they were out of tuna proscuitto) adding another textural element as well as richness to the dish.

The vegetables Neroni serves come from farmers who grow the produce for him, or from the farmers market.  The most umami of the veggie options is the Cherry tomatoes, dashi broth, smoked tofu and shiso/basil.  This lovechild of agedashi tofu and a cherry tomato salad is a highlight of the menu.  The dashi broth is better than at most Japanese restaurants and the smoked tofu paired with the ripe cherry tomatoes is an inspired combination.  One would be remiss in not ordering this dish, and in leaving any drops of broth left in the bowl.

Pasta dishes have become Neroni's signature and they have a pride of place on the Superba menu.  The bucatini with carbonara, pancetta, milled black pepper and Aracuna egg and the Gnocchi with burrata and broccoli necks are the most frequently ordered so far.  The Garganelli with lamb bolognese, black garlic, ricotta salata and mint is a hearty dish and a satisfying end the main part of the meal.  The pasta was cooked to a pleasing degree of doneness and the meaty sauce clung to it well and the proportion of sauce to pasta was spot on.

The Dining Room @ Superba Snack Bar

Desserts are available, although I did not sample any on my visit.  The room is comfortable, with a chef's counter, and a mix of indoor and outdoor seating.  There is a large print on one wall with a repeating stylized pattern of holding hands.  The wine program while small is well thought out and includes several unusual bottles, such as a Greek white wine.  The atmosphere is conducive to stopping in for a light snack or a full meal, although if the restaurant continues to be packed - I can't see customers be willing to endure a long wait just to get a snack.

Currently Superba Snack bar is open for dinner seven nights a week from 5 pm - 11pm (midnight on weekends) and lunch and brunch will follow later once they get a handle on dinner service.

Well worth checking out.  Note that while I was recognized, this was not a hosted meal.

Superba Snack Bar: 533 Rose Avenue, Venice | 310.399.6400 | superbasnackbar.com

First Impression: Jason Neroni at Osteria La Buca

As previously first reported here, Jason Neroni took over the kitchen at Osteria La Buca earlier this month following an extensive renovation by designer Brendan Ravenhill.  I had an opportunity to try several items on the new menu during a friends and family night visit.  As this meal was while the kitchen was in previews, so to speak, take this as more of an opportunity to see the kind of food Neroni is putting out, rather than the exact dishes you will encounter.

Ricotta Fritters are a fun way to begin a meal.  They are like savory donut holes, only lighter.  These bite size treats are airy and seem to disappear from the bowl at a rapid rate when dining with a group.

The spaghetti cacio y pepe ($9) with tellecherry pepper and perorino cheese (unpictured) is a simple dish that is easy to get wrong.  Neroni's pasta was perfectly al dente (that's for you Sam and Josh) and the salty cheese sauce was pungent with pepper and the tangy cheese.  This is one of those dishes like margherita pizza in which there is nowhere to hide; either its right or its not.  It isn't complicated; there are no fireworks.  It is just good.

The ouvo raviolo with ricotta, cavallo nero, brown butter and fried rosemary (above) is another deceptively simple dish ($16).  The ravioli is filled with a runny egg, which oozes all over the plate.  This dish was a favorite at the table.  I love runny egg dishes and this was a rich satisfying dish.  It was not oversauced, as the egg itself provided much of the liquid.  Order it if available.

Pollo ala Diavolo with panzanella salad, arugula and pine nuts ($22) was a large serving.  It was tasty although not particularly spicy and certainly not devilish.  However the croutons seemed to have done their share in purgatory as they had more of a kick than the chicken itself.

The overall design is sleek but welcoming.  The service was attentive and lived up to the sign above which proclaimed, "We're Glad You're Here."  Below, the chairs pictured on top of the shelves are the same ones that diners sit on at tables.  That was a creative touch, which helped to unify the design elements of the room into a whole.

Neroni is known for his pork dishes, so I am happy to report that the non-pork dishes on the menu receive as much attention from the kitchen as the oinky ones. Chef Neroni had been wanting to move to Southern California for a while and it appears that he has settled in. He mentioned to me that his son and La Buca owner Graham Synder have young sons that are the same age who play together. Promising for La Buca and Los Angeles.

Osteria La Buca: 5210 Melrose Avenue, Hollywood. Phone: (323) 462-1900. Website: osterialabuca.com

Breaking News: Jason Neroni in at Osteria La Buca

Osteria La Buca, which is preparing to complete its revamp launched last year, will reopen late next week with a new design and a new chef.  Jason Neroni, most recently of Saucebox in Portland, and known for his pork-centric cooking in New York City at Porchetta, will be joining the venerable classic Italian restaurant.  No news yet on how the menu will evolve.  It has been almost a year since owner Graham Snyder previewed the renovation plans created by designer Brendan Ravenhill while showcasing the wonders of Neve Ice.

I'm looking forward to trying Chef Neroni's food (the non-pork dishes at least) and seeing how the vision that was shown to me last April has evolved.  It will be interesting to see how the menu evolves.  Neroni got great reviews at 10 Downing and had been rumored to be coming to LA last fall when he chose Portland.  Hopefully Portland's loss is Los Angeles's gain.