First Impression: The Strand House

The Manhattan Beach former home of Beaches has been completely remade into a new restaurant, bar and lounge called appropriately enough The Strand House, as it sits on the Strand at the intersection of Manhattan Beach Blvd.  The chef is Travis Lorton, formerly of Gjelina, and Neal Fraser of Grace consulted on the menu.  This is the second significant recent opening in the neighborhood, following the debut of David LeFevre's M.B. Post, perhaps leading to a renaissance in dining options for the South Bay.

As at M.B. Post, The Strand House has been popular from opening day; on my recent visit the wait for a table was an hour or more at prime time.  The Strand House has multiple levels, including a lower level bar (pictured above) that was busy when I arrived and only got busier.  During dinner (the dining room is above the bar floor), I noticed that the stairs leading to the bar now had a velvet rope and bouncer guarding the entrance.  The restaurant is very loud, which lead to some amusement when a waitress commented to us how much quieter the dining room was than the bar downstairs.

Braised Rabbit Gnocchi

The menu is divided into salads, appetizers, charcuterie, cheese, pizzas, mains and sides.  On my visit we began with the Braised Rabbit Gnocchi and the Margherita Pizza.  Neither could be recommended and we did not finish either.

Margherita Pizza

The chef appears to be a fan of nages, as the Sauteed Tai Snapper was served with a byaldi confit (a variation of ratatouille) and a basil nage (flavored broth).  The snapper was overcooked, which lead to a less than ideal texture and flavor.

Sauteed Tai Snapper

The one dish I sampled that I can recommend without reservations was the Hand Torn Pasta Rags, which were served with a house-made lamb sausage, roasted fennel, tomato and pine nuts and finished with generous shavings of cheese.  The pasta was well cooked, the sausage had oomph and the flavors all coalesced unto a unified whole which was greater than the sum of its parts.

Hand Torn Pasta Rags

The Brussels Sprouts were served in a lidded square pot.  The preparation involved brown butter, maple and caraway seed.

Roasted Brussels sprouts

The signature dessert may be the Butterscotch Doughnuts with Powdered Bacon.  We received ours with the bacon on the side.  The center of the doughnuts oozed gooey butterscotch.  This dish seemed more gimmicky than delicious.  If I am craving a butterscotch dessert, I know to head to Pizzeria Mozza for their budino.

Bacon donuts

The meal was disapppointing as there is evidently talent in the kitchen but it isn't showing up on the plate.  My dining companion had a dried out bacon-wrapped pork loin that looked unappealing on the plate (not pictured).  The team may be happy to fill the space with drinkers and have the food be secondary, but that approach would squander the ample resources that were evidently put into the kitchen.  The food here isn't cheap; a meal is on par or even more expensive than at M.B. Post, with entrees coming in between $24 and $39.  When we left the restaurant the velvet rope and bouncer had migrated outside the door of the building.  I wasn't sure if it was a nightclub or the second coming of Red O's infamous "door hosts."

Until The Strand House team executes on its proffer I can't recommend the restaurant as it is all potential, no delivery.  With a reported $10 million investment in opening it, I hope they decide what they want to be when they grow up.

This meal was hosted.

The Strand House: 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach. Phone: (310) 545-7470. Website: http://www.thestrandhousemb.com/

MB Post: LeFevre Raises the Bar in Manhattan Beach

Manhattan Beach had been in need of a destination restaurant that reflected the informality of the upscale beach community.  Chef David LeFevre, formerly the Executive Chef of the Water Grill in Downtown Los Angeles had been wanting to open a restaurant in his own neighborhood to fill that void and he has succeeded in both delivering a quality experience and pleasing the masses, as the food was quite good and the restaurant was packed on my visit.

I recently met up with Daniel from ThirstyinLA, Fiona of GourmetPigs and Tony from SinoSoul for a media dinner at MB Post and I had the opportunity to try the full gamut of the menu.  Although known for his fish dishes, LeFevre also excels at meat and vegetable dishes, such as the lamb belly and fried chicken.

Pomegranate Cous Cous

I particularly enjoyed the Salt Roasted Baby Beets served with chevre goat cheese and pistachio and beet green pesto.  The presentation was attractive and the beets still had their stems which made them appear freshly picked.

Salt Roasted Baby Beets

There is an extensive bread selection and the Fleur de Sel Pretzel served with horseradish mustard is the way to go.  The mustard is legitimately spicy and the pretzel was just the right consistency.  Hans Rockenwagner better watch out.

Bacon Cheddar Buttermilk Biscuits, Fleur de Sel Pretzel, Grilled Naan Flatbread

Cured Meats and Cheeses

The cheese selection includes some unusual choices, such as the Mycella Blue from Denmark.  Some marcona almonds are just the thing to accompany an order of cheese.  MB Post also offers a selection of honeys.  I had not seen this before and it is worth ordering for the novelty alone.  The honeys are comb, chestnut and truffle.  My favorite was the simplest, the comb, as the truffle could be overly intense.

Honey Selection, Mustard Selection and Fruit Spreads

Marinated Cucumbers

The Marinated Cucumbers with kalamata olives, peppadew peppers and chick peas is an unusual flavor combination with the salty of the olives with the sweet spiciness of the peppers and the neutral canvas of the cucumbers.

My favorite dish, hands down, was the Steamed Tai Snapper with bok choy and sudachi (Japanese citrus).  It was delicate and flavorful and the broth was just wonderful.  This was the dish I wanted to keep all to myself; it is not surprising that LeFevre is a fish expert.

Steamed Tai Snapper

For the lumberjacks in your party, the Fee Fi Fo Fum Fries are just the thing.  They must come from enormous potatoes as they are almost a foot long.  These thick cut fries with salt and herbs also retain much of the potato skin.  You may need a wheelbarrow full of ketchup to properly dunk them.

Fee Fi Fo Fum Fries

Moroccan BBQ Lamb Belly

The Moroccan BBQ Lamb Belly with creamy semolina, and weiser farms tiny carrots was as soft as short ribs.  The meat was unctuous and rich.  This felt like more of a winter dish for a cold night.  The Meyers Farm "Never Ever" Skirt Steak with grilled ramps and chicichurri was tasty and had some chew.  A crisp red wine would be just the thing to drink with it.

Meyers Farm "Never Ever" Skirt Steak

Three Point Tart

For dessert, I found the Three Point Tart to be the most successful as it combined macerated strawberries and rhubarb inside the pastry and was served with a buttermilk panna cotta.  The tart looked very much like an over-sized Hamentaschen, the traditional dessert at the Jewish holiday of Purim, which is made to look like a three point hat.  The fruit tasted fresh and the combination of strawberry and rhubarb was a pleasing way to end the meal.

Chef David LeFevre

LeFevre is excited that the neighborhood has taken to MB Post so strongly.  This is the rare South Bay restaurant that is worth the detour from the Westside.  It doesn't run away or condescend to its neighborhood; rather it provides an experience that feels organic, like it should have always been there, but better.  With its comfortable vibe and accessible quality, MB Post lives up to its moniker, a Social House.

MB Post: 1142 Manhattan Avenue, Manhattan Beach.  Phone: (310) 545-5405.  Website: www.eatmbpost.com