Showing posts with label Top Chef. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Top Chef. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

The Celebrity Chef Tour Comes to Chaya October 20th

The Celebrity Chef Tour is kind of like the World Poker Tour, except the head to head finale leaves diners as the victors and nobody hauling away a briefcase full of cash.  The Celebrity Chef Tour comes to Chaya this Thursday night October 20th for a special dinner benefiting the James Beard Foundation.  Chaya Executive Chef Haru Kishi, and three members of the Forgione cooking family will be preparing the dinner.

The meal will begin with passed appetizers by each of the four chefs and the seated portion of the evening will start off with Hamachi Mole, one of Chef Kichi's signature creations.  Then Larry Forgione, one of the seminal leaders of American cuisine in the 1980s onwards, and his sons "Iron Chef" Marc Forgione of Marc Forgione Restaurant in New York and Bryan Forgione of the Society Cafe at the Encore resort in Las Vegas, will each serve a dish.  The meal will conclude with dessert prepared by Chefs Kishi & Tachibe of Chaya.

The meal is $175 all inclusive, which in this case means tax, tip and wine pairings.  Not only do you get to eat a meal at one of the creators of Euro Asian cuisine but diners have the opportunity to try the food of a legend and taste how his sons are building on his legacy with their own techniques.  Tradition plus experimentation should make for a fun and tasty evening.  Plus, it is not every day you get to help raise funds for the James Beard Foundation, which celebrates America's culinary heritage and traditions.

Buy tickets here: http://www.celebritycheftour.com/events/CHAYA.html

Chaya: 8741 Alden Drive, Beverly Hills.  Phone: (310) 859-8833.  Website: http://www.celebritycheftour.com/events/CHAYA.html

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Wilshire is a delight

Wilshire Restaurant is a standard bearer for New American cuisine in Santa Monica.  The restaurant which is known for its beautiful back patio has also been known for the talent in the kitchen.  Longtime executive chef Andrew Kirschner left earlier this year and was replaced by rising star Nyesha Arrington, who had been the Executive Chef at Caché.  Previously she had worked with Josiah Citrin at Melisse and at Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas.  Arrington is becoming known to a wider audience through her participation on the current season of Top Chef, now airing on Bravo and the formal announcement of her position as Executive Chef coincided with the announcement of this season's cast of cheftestants.

I recently had dinner at Wilshire with a friend in the restaurant business and we shared much of the menu.  Several of the highlights are pictured below.  Overall the food was approachable and tasted good.  This was not tweezer food, although it was attractively plated.


The Heirloom Tomato Salad with burrata was served with aged balsamic.  The combination of fresh heirloom tomatoes with burrata can be a cliche, but if it is executed well, like at Wilshire, it can remind you of why it is so popular.  Arrington lets the quality of the ingredients shine through; my dining companion and I fought for the last forkful of cheese.


Maggie's Farm Caesar Salad is another take on a classic, with large crisps of toast standing in for the croutons and with white anchovy.  The parmesan gave it a pleasant salty tang.


Cool pate with preserves and warm toast fresh out of the oven is always welcome on my table.  The pate was creamy and unctuous and the fruit provided a pleasant acidity as a counterpoint.


Whole fishes are a favorite of mine and the Whole Grilled Branzino was no exception.  The light fish was served with a fennel salad and typical of Arrington's style was prepared simply and well executed.  A squeeze of lemon and we happily devoured the whole fish, including the cheeks.


The Ribeye with tempura onion rings was a fitting end to our meal.  The beef was nicely rosy, medium rare as asked, and deep in flavor.  The crunch of the onion ring was quite good and this onion ring had none of the grease that is so often found in versions of the dish.


Sitting in the back patio at Wilshire is a real pleasure, especially as the food matches or exceeds the setting.  There can sometimes be a scene in the front bar lounge area, but when you step outside onto the patio, it is like leaving Los Angeles behind.  Arrington stopped by our table and she mentioned that she has brought on many new purveyors and farmers whom she had relationships with from her prior experience working at Citrin's restaurants.  I look forward to seeing the menu continue to develop.  I have a feeling that Arrington's profile will grow in this town, mostly from her cooking but also from her television appearances where her genuineness comes through.

So request a table on the patio and have a leisurely dinner.  Relax, you will be in good hands.

Our meal was hosted.

Wilshire Restaurant: 2454 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica.  Phone: (310) 586-1707.  Website: wilshirerestaurant.com

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Second Take: Ilan Hall Develops the Menu at Urbano Pizza

Last month Ilan Hall, the chef of The Gorbals in downtown LA and the winner of season 2 of Top Chef, has joined Urbano Pizza Bar, the downtown pizza spot that opened this summer to positive reviews.  At Urbano he has partnered with Chef Josh Moser on expanding and revamping the menu (he is still at The Gorbals as well).

Hall is excited to be working with the huge oven, saying "you have a lot of freedom with a wood burning oven.  We want to use the oven as much as possible.  There are two ovens and we can't just be using the wood burning ovens for pizza."

He has changed the flour to a higher gluten blend, which makes the crust of the pizzas crisper.  Hall and Moser have also been using leftover pizza dough to make open-faced sandwiches.  Below is the meatballs with warm pizza bread, which was delicious.  The meatballs are made with all beef and the sauce was full of flavor.  It is great to see pork-free meatballs on a menu.


The margherita pie ($12) is made with fresh mozzarella, hand crushed tomato and petit basil.  The pie was well executed.  The crust was firm enough and the sauce again was good; I would have preferred just a little more of the mozzarella cheese.


The Testa Verde pizza ($13) is one of the more unusual pizzas I have tasted in that it uses Irish cheddar as the base.  There is no tomato sauce on this pie.  Instead, baby spinach and herbed ricotta as well as the aforementioned cheddar are the toppings.  The cheddar was surprisingly good, mellower than I was expecting and I preferred this pie to the margherita.


Hall and Moser's collaboration is bearing fruit and they have been experimenting with putting more and more dishes into the wood burning ovens, including potatoes, lasagna, artichokes and corn.  The wood used in the ovens is almond wood, which is reasonably priced, less smokey and doesn't pop.


My favorite pie is the Mushroom Ricotta pizza with mushroom oil, eggs and bottarga.  The eggs are runny and delicious and ample enough to coat the pie.  The mushrooms are enhanced by the mushroom oil and the whole concoction is a decadent pie worth going out of your way for.


If it is on the menu when you go, a visit to Urbano is not complete without trying the Nutella dessert, pictured below.  It is made with fresh pizza dough with carmelized raw sugar, sweet ricotta with cream, sweetened and creamed nutella.  I am not a dessert guy, but I'd happily have this on a regular basis as it is not too sweet but the chocolate comes through.


All in all, Hall has rounded out the offerings at Urbano, enhancing the pizzas and expanding the menu with fun and approachable offerings.  There is a happy hour from 5 - 7 pm with six dollar margherita pizzas and four dollar draft beers, both of which are great deals.  Urbano is a great addition to the downtown dining scene and at dinner it is easy to get a table.  At lunch they also offer pizza by the slice, which is priced at $6 for two slices.  Tables are communal.

My visit was hosted.

Urbano Pizza: 630 W. 6th St @ Hope St, DTLA.  Phone: (213) 614-1900.  Web: www.urbanopizzabar.com

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

First Impression: SmithHouse


SmithHouse Tap & Grill opened last week in Century City on the ground floor of an office building on Santa Monica off of Beverly Glen that has seen several restaurants fail in the space.  This time the curse appears to have been vanquished as the restaurant has been packed with neighborhood office workers and residents excited for a casual restaurant with over one hundred beers on tap.  It wouldn't be an opening these days without a celebrity chef's involvement, so at SmithHouse the food menu was created by Angelo Sosa of Top Chef fame.


Not content to only bring on a celebrity chef, the SmithHouse team also brought in an A-List mixology team to create the cocktail menu.  Jason Bran and Damian Windsor of the Roger Room on La Cienega and Simon Ford, the London-based global brand ambassador for Pernod-Ricard collaborated on the list of eight signature cocktails and six classics.  Full cocktail list at the bottom of this post.

The Bitter Lady (above) is a take on the White Lady (a gin Sidecar) but with Campari instead of Cointreau.  This gives this lady her bitter monicker.  The Plymouth Gin, Campari, lemon juice, honey and egg white are shaken vigourously and then poured into a martini glass and garnished with a lemon peel.  The sour cocktail was delicious and has some bite; an excellent way to begin a visit to SmithHouse.


The menu is bar food with some Asian influences, befitting Sosa's Asian accented style of cuisine.  The menu is casual and is divided into appetizers, salads, sandwiches, burgers, entrees and sides.  I tried the Let's Wing-ette, Sosa's take on chicken wings with a "Red-hot glaze" that are served with celery and are "cooled with Asian ranch" dressing streaked on the bowl.  The wings ($9) were substantial but not especially spicy.  Tasty and a good introduction to the menu.


The signature element of SmithHouse is the extensive beer on tap selection, approximately 120, which are kept in six temperature controlled zones and served in appropriate glassware.  The beer program also includes five beer flights.  Each flight is $10 and contains a selection of five different beers.  The flights are The Fruit Basket, Belgian Flight, California Flight, Eastside Flight, and the European Flight.  I sampled the Belgian Flight, pictured above, which consisted of Timmerman’s Strawberry Lambic, Blanche De Bruxelles, Unibroue Maudite, Allagash Curieux and St. Bernardus Apt. 12.  The pours are generous and it is a fun way to get to sample a variety of beers at a fair price.

The beer list runs the gamut, because with 120 beers, they are not going to all be beer-geek obscurities.  The list contains mass market crowd-pleasers such as Pabst, Pacifico and Stella, major US microbrews such as Sam Adams and Sierra Nevada, as well as a wide selection of craft imports such as Delirium Tremens from Belgium and American craft beers like Ommegang's Hennepin Saison, Racer 5 and Stone Sublimely Self Righteous Ale.


The SmithHouse Burger (above) is made with Vintage Blend beef and a bone marrow and parmesan crust.  The burger ($14) was prepared medium rare, as asked, and was served with pickles on the side and a large bag of herb and parmesan dusted french fries (below).  The burger came with lettuce and a healthy amount of dressing, so much so that when I took a bite a lot of liquid landed on my plate.  This is a burger that certainly requires a napkin.


The beer list is extensive enough to find something appealing for a wide spectrum of beer lovers or novices.  There are even five custom booths (like at City Tavern in Culver City) that have a selection of beer on tap right at the table.  That is a fun innovation that is great for groups.

SmithHouse is basically upscale bar food in a comfortable environment with a way better beer and cocktail selection than you would ever expect in a place with a dozen flat screen TVs showing sports.  It's less of a culinary destination than a cheerful and easygoing spot to relax and enjoy a drink with friends.  If you are looking to see Sosa's culinary wizardry, than neither this nor the Malibu Inn (Sosa's other local consulting gig) will give you that experience.  The prices are fair, the beer selection is unlike anything else on the Westside, and its convenient location is likely to keep it busy.  If Verdugo Bar and Houston's had a love child and hired Space Craft to design a home, this might be it.


On the evening I visited the cocktail I ordered was the first one my bartender had made all night, which isn't surprising considering the beer focus of the establishment.  The cocktail program has been designed by some of the best in the business, so it is worth exploring.

Signature Cocktails by Jason Bran, Damian Windsor & Simon Ford:

Pimm's-A-Peel
pimm's no.1, citrus tea, lemon grass

Mayan Mistress
zacapa rum, lemon, orange, vanilla, passion fruit

Copa Enrique
don julio blanco, jalapeño sauce, cucumber, lime, salt

Officer's Ration
tanqueray gin, lime, grapefruit, honey, soda

Black N' Bulleit
bulleit bourbon, cassis, blackberries, orange

Smitty's Cider
absolut orient apple vodka, apple juice, lime, cinnamon

The Bitter Lady
plymouth gin, campari, lemon, honey, egg white

Cantaloupe Caipiroska
absolut wild tea vodka, cantaloupe, lime

Classic Cocktails:

Aviation
bombay dry gin, maraschino, crème yvette, lemon

French 75
plymouth gin, champagne, lemon

Sidecar
hennessy vs cognac, cointreau, lemon

Moscow Mule
absolut vodka, ginger beer, lime juice

Manhattan
bulleit rye, carpano antica, angostura bitters

Old Fashioned
bulleit bourbon, angostura bitters

SmithHouse: 10351 Santa Monica Blvd. at Beverly Glen, Century City, Phone: (310) 432-4360  Website: www.smithhousela.com

Monday, June 27, 2011

Black Market - Cocktails & A Top Chef in Studio City

Black Market Liquor Bar is a welcome addition to the San Fernando Valley dining scene.  The new venture, with a cocktail program curated by Steve Livigni and Pablo Moix of La Descarga and Harvard & Stone, is a comfortable local bar that happens to serve destination worthy drinks.

The star of the cocktail menu is the Smokin' Monk.  No two ways about it, this is a gorgeous drink.  It is made with mezcal, yellow chartreuse, lemon and orange juices and served with some large ice cubes with a lemon wedge for garnish.  The mix of the mezcal and citrus is magical and the mezcal provides just the right amount of smokiness to keep it intriguing sip after sip.  This might be my favorite new drink of 2011.


The Amber and Embers is made with Laphroig Scotch, Clement Canne Syrup Rum, Angostura and Orange Bitters.  Note, only a dash of each type of bitters is used.  The version I had used Ardberg in place of Laphroig.  I sampled versions with 2 dashes of bitters and one dash, and the one dash was superior.  Counterintuitively,  the version with two dashes was smokier and tasted more of the Scotch.


Red Hot and Bothered: Jalapeno-infused vodka, strawberry, blood orange, agave syrup and ginger beer.  There is nothing shy and retiring about this damsel.


The Boulevard Sour, a dangerous concoction of rye whiskey, cynar, lemon juice and egg white, is pleasingly frothy.


Punch is all the rage this days, but Black Market takes this trend one step further with its Punch for One, a pisco based cocktail with pineapple juice, agave syrup, angostura bitters and lime juice.  This is a mellow cocktail that is easy to sip on.  This has been a pisco week, after some pisco sours earlier at the new Picca.


Black Market has an all-star bartending staff, including Zach Patterson (below) of STK, Mia Sarazen of Harvard & Stone, and Tricia Alley, formerly of B-Side Lounge.  If any of these assassins offers to make you a drink, accept.  You are in good hands.

Zach Patterson
In addition to bringing in a stellar team of barkeeps, Livigni and Moix brought chef Antonia Lofaso of Top Chef fame to the equation.  The menu includes some Italian influences, not surprisingly.

A highlight of what I tried was the Ricotta Gnudi, served in a brown butter sauce.  The gnudi were soft and had a light consistency.  The only off note for me was the crunch of pistachio nuts, which were unnecessary.

Gnudi
The Duck Rillettes with bourbon raisins were served in a jar with ample toasts alongside.  The rilletes required some mixing to get the sweet and salty components into proper proportion.


My other favorite of the night was Oxtail Ragu with perciatelli pasta and perorino cheese.  The dish is rich and savory.  The noodles were perfectly cooked and were heavy enough to sustain the meat.  It was attractively plated as well.


I only managed a bite of my dining companion's Crispy Poussin with french fries, which was unremarkable.


For me Antonia's pastas were the highlight of the food menu.  With the cocktails, I enjoyed all that I drank, although the drink that is going to lure me back to Studio City is the Smokin' Monk.  Absolutely delicious.

Black Market Liquor Bar proclaims itself "purveyors of cocktails, bites and candy." I can vouch for the first two; the third you will have to explore for yourself.

Black Market Liquor Bar: 11915 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, CA.  Phone: (818) 446-2533.  Website: http://blackmarketliquorbar.com/

Friday, October 22, 2010

The Yard Santa Monica - Late Night Menu

West of the 405 there are not a lot of late night food options besides the 24 hour diners, which leave something to be desired in ambition and execution.  To help rectify this situation, Santa Monica's The Yard, led by Chef CJ Jacobson, launched a late night menu available from 10 pm - 1 am on Thursday - Saturday nights, perfect to get some quality food after a night out.


Chef Jacobson (above) launched his late night menu last night with some $3 specials. Although the menu will cost a bit more than that, it is still a good value, especially considering the quality. The arancini (below) were one of the highlights of the food I sampled last night. They were crispy on the exterior and had a good crunch to them while still having a light center.


The Grilled Cheese (below) was the highlight of the evening.  It includes Gruyere, Mozzarella, Asiago & Roaring Forties Blue and sprinkled Parmesan cheese on the top.  The blue cheese gives it an extra kick and the bread was thick.  The blend of cheeses made this dish a cut above your standard grilled cheese.


I did not sample the poutine (pictured below) due to the pork in the gravy, but it was enjoyed by my tablemates, although not as enthusiastically as the veal meatballs (not pictured) which were delicious.


The arancini, meatballs and grilled cheese sandwich were the highlights of the food menu.  The Blackberry Bramble, available for $5 as the cocktail of the week, was light and refreshing.  I enjoyed it so much I drank it before I could remember to photograph it.

The full late night menu is:

Food
Paprika spiced calamari, roasted marinara, fried lemon $10
Mini pulled pork sloppy joes, yard bbq sauce, crispy onions, pickled carrots, fries $12
The yard house-ground burger, carr valley cheddar, grilled onions, 1000 Island dressing, tomato, fries $14
Arancini, crispy risotto balls, spicy romesco sauce $8
Classic grilled cheese: Gruyere, Mozzarella, Asiago & Roaring Forties Blue $9
Grilled vegetable plate with shallot vinagrette $8
Poutine, skinny fries, brown gravy, cheese curds $8
Coffee Pot d'creme with espresso grounds and sea salt, chocolate/hazelnut biscotti $8

Drinks
Pabst Blue Ribbon $3
Xante Sangria Blanca $5
Specialty Cocktail of the Week (Blackberry Bramble this week) $5
Microbrewery Darft of the Week (Craftsman 1903 this week) $4

The Yard: 119 Broadway, Santa Monica (right between Ocean and the 3rd Street Promenade). Phone: (310) 395-6037  Website: theyardsm.com