Mariscos Chente's: Pescado Zarandeado

Mariscos Chente's is the current home of Chef Sergio who Bill Esparza of Street Gourmet LA made famous through his chronicles of Pescado Zarandeado, the chef's signature dish.  The grilled Snook, a fish which I was not previously familiar, was served with cucumbers, oranges and onions.  The Imperial Highway location in Inglewood is the original location and after much moving around is where the Snook can be found.  The interior is currently being renovated, but there is a comfortable patio in back.

The fish ceviche is only $12 and was plentifully served on a large square platter.  Onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, citrus juices and a little jalapeno peppers for kick flavor the raw fish.  The flavors are bright and the ceviche is attractive and tasty.  More than enough for 2-3 people to share as an appetizer or for someone to eat as a main course.

The main attraction of the meal was the Pescado Zarandeado which we were warned takes half an hour.  It was more than worth the wait and was also portioned for sharing ($20 per kilo).  The fish is served whole and is accompanied by freshly made tortillas, the better to make tacos with.  After hearing about this dish for years, it lived up to my expectations.  I'd certainly recommend a visit to Mariscos Chente's.

The Imperial Highway location that I visited does not have a liquor license, but has a nice selection of jarritos. Another table had brought a case of beer with them, so if you want a cerveza to wash down your meal, plan on BYOing.  Fortunately for me, I have reason to be in the neighborhood on a regular basis.  Even if you do not, the Zarandeado is worth a detour.

Mariscos Chente's: 3544 W Imperial Hwy, Inglewood. Phone: (310) 672-2339

Now Open: Pal Cabron, the Koreatown Edition

Pal Cabron, the Cemitas and Clayudas specialist in Huntington Park owned by Bricia (pictured below) and Fernando Lopez of the Guelaguetza empire, has moved to Koreatown on the site of the original Guelaguetza.  Pal Cabron Koreatown opened last Friday night with a party to celebrate Bricia's birthday and friends and supporters turned out in full force to toast their success and celebrate the festivities.

The cemitas (pictured below) are just as large as at the original location.  The sandwiches are overflowing with meat, cheese and toppings.  No customer will go hungry at Pal Cabron.  In addition the menu includes tamales, memelas, clayudas and other Oaxacan offerings.  This branch is connected to their recently opened Natura Juice Bar, so customers can satisfy their juice and sandwich cravings in one spot.  Ingredients include poek, chicken, beef and quesillo (Oaxacan cheese) as well as mole sauce.

For those of you who were curious about Pal Cabron but found the location to be "geographically undesirable", you now have no excuse.  The 8th Street location is in between downtown and the Westside and a short drive from Hollywood.  The prices are reasonable (less than $10) and the service is quick and friendly and if you are in luck you may actually get to meet the legendary proprietress herself.

Pal Cabron #2: 3337 1/2 W. 8th Street (just West of Irolo) in Koreatown. Phone: (213) 427-0601. Website: palcabron.com

Nina's Quesadilla: Boyle Heights delicious

Nina's is a quesadilla specialist in Boyle Heights. She is reliably there on Friday and Saturday evenings beginning at eight pm or just before. Nina's operates out of a stand with a generator and sets up her kitchen on the sidewalk. The quesadillas are made from fresh masa and there are a variety of options for fillings. The quesadillas can be fried or grilled.

Squash Blossom fried quesadilla at Nina's

The first time I went to Nina's I ran into the Good Food crew, including Evan Kleiman, the host and Harriet, the producer, which is generally a good sign. On my visit last weekend I opted for a squash blossom (flor de calabaza) quesadilla fried, which was all of $3. It was cooked quickly and then I added several salsas from the selection of half a dozen to finish it off. The portion is quite large and it is delicious. I think I prefer the grilled to the fried, but both options are satisfying.

Nina's was the winner of the First Annual Vendy Awards in Los Angeles this May and she was also the beneficiary of a benefit at Kleiman's Angeli Caffe.

Nina's is cash only and is located on Breed Street across from the Breed Street Shul, just south of Cesar Chavez. Their Twitter account appears to be inactive but she is reliably there on Friday & Saturday evenings. I can't vouch for other nights of the week.

Mexicali Taco & Co - Carne Asada in DTLA

Recently I was speaking with Bill Esparza of StreetGourmetLA and he was raving about a carne asada specialist in DTLA and I was intrigued. I went to the corner of First & Beaudry two times before I figured out that Mexicali Taco & Co is on twitter and is only open Wednesday - Saturday from 8 - 11 pm, although check twitter because they are not yet consistent in the days they are there.

The third time was the charm and I got to Mexicali as they were finishing setting up. They operate in a tent in a parking lot on the corner. I was the first customer but by the time that they were ready to begin serving, there was a line. Based on their twitter feed they sell out every night they are open, so come early or go home hungry.

The tacos are $2 a pop, and they are worth the premium above the $1.25 standard. They offer both corn and flour tortillas and they are handmade. I got two carne asada tacos, one each with corn and flour. Several different salsas were available as well as pickled radishes. The tacos were delicious and had a real beefy flavor.

The tacos are served on real plates covered in a plastic wrap. All in all it was a pleasant quality experience and I will go back for sure.  Bill has some more details and photos on his writeup here.

Mexicali Taco & Co is located on 1st & Beaudry in a tent on Wednesday - Saturday.  It is open from 8 - 11 pm (technically til midnight but based on their twitter feed they sell out by 11 every night).  They have developed quite a following as all the customers who were there when I checked it out had driven to their location specifically to get the tacos.

Te'Kila: Now Open in Hollywood

Te'Kila, a new Mexican restaurant, cafe and tequila bar, is now open on Hollywood Boulevard. Te'Kila will have over one hundred tequilas available when their spirit list is complete soon, although there is no shortage of agave available now. The spirit is on proud display around the bar, with shelves of different bottles reflected in the mirrors behind them.



Bar manager Brady Weise (pictured below) is leading the spirits and cocktail program and is excited to be bringing quality drinks to Hollywood Boulevard. Te'Kila is able to both meet the needs of discerning drinkers earlier in the evening and provide an array of tequila for sipping or shots later in the evening as the mood shifts more toward partying.



The menu is focused on dishes such as tacos and burritos. I sampled the shredded chicken and the beef barbacoa classic tacos. The beef barbacoa taco was just ok, but the chicken one was tender and had a ton of flavor and was topped with fresh onion, cilantro and salsa. The tortillas were thin so it could get messy but that is what napkins are for. Each of these tacos is $3.50.



The house margarita (pictured below) I sampled ($9) was well made, although the subpar ice in it diluted the cocktail quickly. For those who enjoy fruit in their margaritas, several options are available beyond the standard strawberry, for only $1 more than a standard one.



There is a large attractive patio space that should be prime real estate on busy evenings. They may have seats directly on Hollywood Boulevard in the future. Te'Kila is open from 11:30 am - 2 am continuously for lunch through dinner and afterwards. There is also the potential in the coming months to see late night dining (no alcohol) until 4 am on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at Te'Kila, which could prove popular with those exiting clubs and bars at closing time and looking for a bite to eat.

Te'Kila: 6451 Hollywood Blvd, by Whitley Avenue, Hollywood. Phone: (323) 960-2404. Website: tekilahollywood.com

Tinga at Tinga

When you name your restaurant after a particular dish or drink, your version of the dish better be spot on and delicious. I can't vouch for the authenticity of the tinga served at Tinga as I have never had the dish before, but I can say that it is tasty.

Tinga, a Mexican cafe which opened two weeks ago, is now doing a bustling lunch business. I hadn't had the opportunity to try the namesake dish on my previous visit, so stopped by yesterday to check it out.

The tinga is shredded chicken with tomato chipotle, lettuce, crema,and marinated onions on a crispy tortilla shell. It comes two to an order. It can get messy to eat these open faced tostadas but they are full of flavor and the taste is clean.

I also grabbed a potato taco, which I had heard good things about, but found it to be not too my liking as the contents were mushier in consistency than I prefer. Stick to the tinga, the chicken or the beef tacos and you will be a happy camper, and remember to save room for dessert.


Tinga: 142 S. La Brea Avenue (1st St/2nd St). Phone: (323) 954-9566. Website: www.tingabueno.com

Glibert's El Indio - Old School Mexican in Santa Monica

Gilbert's El Indio has been in the same location on Pico Blvd and 26th Street in Southeast Santa Monica for over 30 years. It is a casual restaurant that specializes in Cal-Mexican with enchiladas, tamales, burritos, quesadillas etc. Gilbert's does not take reservations and is cash only.



Meals at Gilbert's begin with homemade chips and salsa. The chips are often warm, straight out of the fryer. A signature touch is the pickled carrots which are served with the chips and salsa. These are shown on the right in the photo above.



At Gilbert's the prices are reasonable and the portions are large. The chicken enchiladas (pictured above) are covered in gooey cheese, are messy and quite tasty. This is not the place to look for the healthy or diet options.

For especially large appetites, the burritos are oversized, especially the Extra Super Mule, which is described as "beef, chicken or pork, with beans, avocado and lettuce burrito topped with melted cheese, tomato, chili ortega, and our tasty verde sauce, all served on a bed of rice." The margaritas are served in jar style cups and are also very reasonable.

I am continually amazed by how quickly the food comes out of the kitchen, invariably only about five minutes after you order. The service is friendly and quick, the chips and salsa are continually replenished and it is a homey family owned restaurant environment. Gilbert's does not claim to be authentic regional Mexican cuisine; it is happy doing what it does well, California Mexican in a comfortable ambiance at a fair price. Gilbert's also has its own free parking lot. The entrance to the restaurant is in the back, from the parking lot.

Gilbert's is open from 8 am - 11 pm, 7 days per week, and stays open til midnight on Friday & Saturday nights. It serves breakfast, lunch & dinner.

Gilbert's: 2526 Pico Blvd @ 26th St in Santa Monica. Phone: (310) 450-8057. Website: gilbertselindio.net

Tinga: Now Open

Tinga restaurant opens today on La Brea Blvd, just south of 1st Street. The Mexican taco specialist is the first restaurant project for husband and wife caterers Jerry (pictured below) and Chris Baker. Last night I was invited to their friends and family opening celebration to see their new space and try the food.



The menu is built around five types of tacos, including cochina pibil, papas bravas, puerco especial, steak picado and short rib deshabrada. I tried the steak tacos, which were very clean tasting and had nice bright flavors. Others around me raved about the pork tacos and the potato (papas bravas) tacos.

The other signature dish is the tinga, which is shredded chicken served on a toastada with tomato chipotle, lettuce, crema and pickled onion. The tortillas, salsas, guacamole and beverages are all made in-house.



The team was especially proud of the horchata (pictured below), justifiably so, in my opinion. Very refreshing. Tamarindo, jamaica and watermelon lemonade are all also available.

My favorite of the dishes I tried was the grilled corn, which had spices and lime juice on it to give it a real kick. The corn was served off of the cob in clusters of kernels in a salad format and was packed with flavor.



The pistachio desserts were tasty treats and have a strong lemon flavor as well. Lemon is a favorite of mine in desserts, so I was happy to eat a second one when given the opportunity.



Tinga does not have a sign up at this time. Look for the open french doors and the large communal wooden table dominating the interior. The walnut stool seats and table tops were manufactured for the Tinga team by a maker of cutting boards, which is a cool design touch, although I don't suspect they'd like you to start cutting straight on the table...

Tinga does not have an alcohol license. The taco plates are between $5.50 and $8.50 and the fresh drinks are $3.75. Tinga's slogan is "The people, they like it!" and I'd have to agree with that sentiment.

Note: I was invited to this event and did not pay for my food or beverage.

Tinga: 142 S. La Brea Avenue (1st St/2nd St).

Palm Desert Edition: El Gallito

The Palm Springs / Palm Desert area is not known for its bounty of good dining options. There are upscale steakhouses and spots in hotels, as well as value spots appealing to families and retirees but not so many good ethnic or interesting choices that are both good and reasonably priced. El Gallito (the Rooster) is an oasis in this environment, offering good Mexican food in an atmosphere that feels homey and lived in. Its not surprising that this Cathedral City restaurant is listed in Road Food.

El Gallito is located in a stand alone building with red trim, red fences and red benches. The restaurant is known for its rules: you can't order beer/wine without ordering food, chips and salsa will only be served after you have ordered your food, cash only, and no splitting checks. This is not the kind of spot that takes reservations.

In the winter months there is often a wait to be seated but in the heat of the summer, there was no wait and they even broke their rule (their house, their rules) by bringing me chips and salsa before I had ordered. I had a combination of an enchilada and a burrito. Both were good, served piping hot and arrived at the table quickly. I'd describe it as quality solid California Mexican. They are not aiming for fancy/healthy or regional cuisine.



The food is fairly priced, tastes good and is served in a comfortable environment. In Los Angeles, El Gallito would not stand out, but in the Coachella Valley its a great option.



El Gallito is located at 68820 Grove St, just off of Allen Avenue and within sight of Highway 111 / E. Palm Canyon Drive. Phone: (760) 328-7794‎

Pal Cabron: Cemitas are big time sandwiches

Pal Cabron, a Mexican restaurant in Huntington Park, specializes in Cemitas & Clayudas. For the uninitiated, Cemitas are large Mexican sandwiches on a roll that include avocado, meat, cheese and salsa. Clayudas are flat (like a pizza) and are made with a crispy tortilla with a layer of beans and pork fat on top, with meat and/or cheese added to taste.

Pal Cabron is the creation of Bricia & Fernando Lopez, part of the local restaurant dynasty that owns the Guelaguetza chain of Oaxacan restaurants in Los Angeles. (This location was formerly a Guelaguetza.)

Last week, I drove out to Huntington Park to try a cemita and see what all the fuss was about. I had met Bricia at La Descarga at a party to celebrate the drink which is named after her. Coverage here. I had the "La de Barbacha" with quesillo ($7.25), which is a lamb barbacoa cemita with quesillo (Mexican string cheese) and chipotle sauce. The sandwich was large, and quite good. The different flavors all came together to create a unified whole. There was nothing dainty about this sandwich and those with small appetites need not apply. I had originally planned on making the most of my trip to Huntington Park by pairing my visit to Pal Cabron with another meal at a nearby restaurant but a friend told me that wasn't possible, "You can't pair Pal Cabron with anyplace else. It simply isn't possible to eat another meal after eating at Pal Cabron," he said. Boy was he right.

What better to wash down the sandwich which ate Huntington Park than a horchata, the traditional Mexican beverage made with rice and cinammon and no shortage of hearty ingredients. There would be no sense to serve a wimpy horchata with the Hercules of sandwiches, and Pal Cabron's is up to the challenge.

The restaurant is covered with murals, including pictures of LA Weekly critic Jonathan Gold and local blogger Javier Cabral, Teenage Glutster, above. There are also murals of Steve Livigni and Pablo Moix from La Descarga

There is ample street parking at meters and the prices are very reasonable for the cemitas & clayudas. The only drawback about Pal Cabron for me is that it is over 16 miles from my house, so it is just far away and a long drive to get there.

Pal Cabron is located at 2560 E Gage Ave (just west of Pacific) in Huntington Park. Phone: (323) 277-9899 Website: www.lascabronas.com
Huntington Park is 5 miles South of downtown Los Angeles.

Taco Roundup on Cinco de Mayo

Inspired by LA Taco's recent taco tournament which anointed La Estrella as the best taqueria in town and a friend who recently moved to LA and is obsessed with tacos, I journeyed on a personal quest to try some of the more prominent taco joints in Los Angeles to see what they had to offer.

In each location (where possible) I ordered two carne asada soft tacos. I visited as many as four in one day. They were: Carnitas Michoacan, La Estrella 3, King Taco, Sky's Tacos, Tacomiendo, Tacos Por Favor, Tito's Tacos & Yuca's.

I don't eat pork or shellfish, which is why I did not sample carnitas tacos or get the famous fish tacos at Sky's.

Best of the bunch: La Estrella 3.

La Estrella is right next to where the train tracks cross Figueroa in Highland Park. It is basically a stand with three small tables connected to the ground.


The meat was just the most flavorful at La Estrella 3 and the cilantro onions and salsa were in just the right proportions.

Runners Up:

1. Tacos Por Favor


Tacos Por Favor on Olympic & 14th St is a Santa Monica institution. They operate efficiently and have tons of indoor seating. Even at prime time lunch the wait to order is relatively short as the line moves quickly. They also have a salsa bar with red, green, pico de gallo and sliced limes, which is a big asset.


The filling doesn't overwhelm the tortillas like at La Estrella. The asada had a nice grilled taste. The tacos come with tortilla chips. Tacos Por Favor uses vegetable oil and no lard.

2. Sky's Gourmet Tacos

Sky's Gourmet Tacos is a soul food take on the Mexican classic. Sky's is located on Pico Blvd near Hauser, South of the Miracle Mile. They have a small indoor dining room and several attractive tables with umbrellas outside on the sidewalk. According to their website, all of their dishes "are prepared fresh without trans fat, lard, artificial additives or preservatives."


I sampled one Authentic Taco which was a small carne asada taco with onions, cilantro and citrus juice and served with hot salsa over two corn tortillas. The salsa was legitimately spicy, which offers a good excuse to try the excellent homemade lemonade. I also got a beef "Famous Taco" which was significantly larger and came with lettuce, tomato, cilantro, cheese and Sky's sauce on two corn tortillas. The "salad" on top was unnecessary and I removed most of it (saving the sauce). Overall very good tacos and a refreshing twist on the classic without changing it beyond recognition.

The Others aka Nothing Special

Tacos from Carnitas Michoacan, King Taco, Tacomiendo & Yuca's were not worth going out of your way for. I had a hard time believing that Yuca's was the winner in LA Taco's bracket last year. Fun spot but their tacos were just fine. By far the worst tacos were at Tito's Tacos. The "tacos" there were absolutely disgusting. Despite being a native Angeleno I had never been there and wished I had kept my streak of 34 years without a Tito's Taco intact. Avoid at all costs.

Carnitas Michoacan


The tacos were extremely oniony, to the point that I could not finish them.

King Taco

King Taco is a fast food environment and the taco is not very tasty and the environment has no charm. There is a parking lot at the Pico & Alvarado location but it is difficult to find a parking space there. The least expensive but perhaps most bland/boring of the tacos sampled.

Tacomiendo


Tacomiendo is located in a strip mall on Gateway in West LA and reminded me of a bigger La Salsa but with food with less flavor. The carne asada was cut into the largest chunks of any taqueria I visited and the tacos were just boring. They also had a salsa bar. No reason to go there with Tacos Por Favor a short drive away.

Tito's Tacos


Tito's Tacos has been in business for over 50 years. I am not sure why people enjoy it. Their tacos come in a hard shell and contain enough shredded lettuce to keep a family of bunnies in food for weeks. I'd rather skip a meal than ever eat there again.

Yuca's


Yuca's has a great ambiance, it just feels authentic in that neighborhoody way. Bonus for outdoor tables adjacent to the parking lot. I just found the tacos to be fine (better than tacomiendo or king taco or tito's or michoacan) but certainly not worth driving out of your way for. The tacos had the least cilantro of any I sampled, maybe that is part of what holds them back.

La Estrella 3: 6103 North Figueroa Street @61st St, Highland Park. (323) 982-0179
Tacos Por Favor: 1406 Olympic Blvd @ 14th St, Santa Monica (310) 392-5768
Sky's Gourmet Tacos: 5408 West Pico Blvd @ Hauser, South Miracle Mile (323) 932-6253
Carnitas Michoacan: 1901 North Broadway (off I-5), East Los Angeles (323) 225-2729
King Taco: 2020 West Pico Blvd, Pico Union (213) 384-8115
Tacomiendo: 11462 West Gateway Blvd, West LA (310) 481-0804‎
Tacos Por Favor: 1406 Olympic Blvd, Santa Monica (310)392-5768
Tito's Tacos: 11222 Washington Place @ Sepulveda, Culver City (310) 391-5780