Summer Fun @ 1886

I have been a fan and advocate of 1886 Bar at the Raymond since it opened in November of 2010 in South Pasadena.  Marcos Tello & Aidan Demarest built a strong program by hiring talented bartenders, a thorough training, and encouraging innovation.  Garrett McKechnie, the head bartender, has continued to helm the program and all the bartenders have the opportunity to create cocktails on the seasonal menus.  At this point, 1886 is unquestionably among the top 5 cocktail bars in the Los Angeles area.  There is deep bench strength among the bartending staff, so that regardless of who is on shift, customers are guaranteed a quality craft cocktail experience.

I was recently invited to try the current seasonal menu focusing on summer cocktails.  Highlights are below.  I encourage you to check it out for yourself:

After Hours is a summer spiced rum swizzler that is a collaboration between bartenders Lacey Murillo and Brady Weise.  Weise is known for his beer cocktails, so there is no surprise that this drink is topped with hazelnut porter.  Spiced rum, passion fruit, pineapple, and a touch of bitters are the other ingredients.  This tiki drink walks on the wild side, and as the menu notes includes Rosanna Arquette and Griffin Dunne.  Marcos Tello, the godfather of the 1886 bartending clan, is a huge advocate of swizzles, so this drink fits well within that tradition, yet takes it to a new tropical destination.

The Kai Lani was originally conceived by Brian Miller (ex Death & Company) of Manhattan and head bartender Garrett McKenchnie has put his own spin on this modern tiki classic.  In true tiki style this cocktail includes two rums: an aged rum and Wray & Nephew overproof Jamaican rum, as well as peach liqueur, fresh lemon juice and Garrett's Spice Mix #1. Adhering to another tiki tradition, McKechnie would not divulge the secret ingredients of his spice mix.  The Kai Lani  looks festive and the peach liqueur comes through loud and clear.  It is shaken, which gives it a cool frothy element.

The Tranquilizer is described as "a tropical delight that will knock you on your ass" and that description is accurate.  Wray & Nephew overproof rum and Batavia Arrack provide the kick, while coconut and pineapple juice provide the mellow disguise.  This drink is one of the tastiest on the list, each sip takes you one step closer to the islands, and to having your butt on the floor as this is indeed a powerful beverage.  Get a designated driver and drink these til the hula girls come home.

The Rosebud is an unusual flavor combination as it is made with house-made hibiscus liqueur, Benedictine, lime juice, Reposade tequila, and topped with Fever Free lite tonic water.  The flower garnish matches the hue of the cocktail, which is lightly fizzy due to the tonic water.  The flavor is tart and berry and light.  If you like the Mexican drink Jamaica, you will enjoy this, if not, steer clear because despite its color, this is no Cosmo.

La Brigada is another Murillo creation, this one inspired by her family trips to Baja California.  It includes mezcal, homemade agave liqueur, fresh pineapple and lime juices served over crushed ice with a shard of frozen coconut water.  It is also garnished with a chicharron (unpictured) garnish.  The mezcal provides a smoky element and takes what could have been a sweet drink into more complex territory.  The use of the chicharron is a whimsical touch, that showcases Murillo's creativity and her reputation as one to watch.

The Southern Belle Whistle is a collaboration from Greg Gertmenian and pastry chef Jeff  Haines. The whistle is a bottled soda pop made with with fresh yellow peaches, floral sweet black tea, and 1886 Buffalo Trace bourbon.  It is fun to open up a bottle and smell the sweet scent of peaches as they bring old fashioned soda pop into the 21st century in a playful way.  As Weise has developed expertise in beer cocktails, Gertmenian may be the premiere bottled cocktail mixologist in town.

The Strawberry Paleta created by McKechnie is my favorite cocktail on the menu.  Despite its appearance, this is no kiddie treat, but an adult popsicle that is nothing short of extraordinary.  Garrett has taken a traditional Latin summer dessert and innovated it by putting  fresh strawberries, cream and "a healthy dose of rum" in -300 degree Farenheit liquid nitrogen, creating something very special.  Served in a glass with a fresh strawberry, the creamy popsicle is boozy and refreshing at the same time.  As this is the first of their rotating summer paleta "pop shop", I can't wait to see what they have in store next.

Peter Lloyd Jones and McKechnie worked together to create the Summer Shrub Fizz.  Fizzes seem to be everywhere this year; they are alcoholic beverages with a vinegar base. With the egg white froth, the texture of this cocktail is key as is the contrast between the strawberry shrub and the meyer lemon essence.  The kick comes from both demerara rum and London Dry Gin.  It is a smooth and attractive addition to the menu.

For those looking for a classic stirred cocktail, look no further than the Dutch Kills, created by Eveleigh head barman Dave Kupchinsky.  This cocktail is especially apropos for 1886 as it includes Bols Genever, which Tello has evangelized.  Barrel Aged Bols Genever, Italian vermouth, bitters and a dash of apricot liqueur are all stirred together with ice in a shaker before being poured into a cocktail glass.  The barrel aging of the Genever gives this cocktail extra depth.

BBC aka Bols Genever Basil Collins is a simple drink of Bols Genever with lemon juice, basil, sugar and carbonated water.  Light and easy sipping, this Marcos Tello cocktail is just right for sitting on the 1886 patio and enjoying the sun go down on a warm Pasadena day.

The perfect snack to munch on while sipping on the summer cockails are the house-made potato chips, which are crunchy and unlike some chips, not oily at all.  The signature 1886 spicy ketchup is served with it to keep things interesting.

If you are hungrier for a more substantial meal, the best choice is the Roasted Lamb Necks & Afghan Bread.  The lamb is spiced with vadouvan and roasted til tender.  No knife is necessary to cut through the meat.  The afghan bread is similar to a lavash and with three dips, you can season the dish to your liking.

My favorites on the list are the Strawberry Paleta and the Tranquilizer but you can't go wrong with this menu.  Get to 1886 while you can.  Fall is rapidly approaching, and with it more exciting cocktails.

1886 at the Raymond

1250 S. Fair Oaks Avenue, Pasadena | 626.441.3136 | www.theraymond.com

Warm Up with the Winter Cocktail Menu at 1886

1886 only gets better and better.  Pasadena's premiere cocktail spot has settled into a comfortable groove of innovation in its just over one year of existence.  Cocktail consultant Marcos Tello still provides guidance but now the team led by talented head barman Garrett McKechnie has been allowed to shine.  The new winter menu, which is smoke and beers themed, has cocktails created by many of the staff members.  This collective approach which highlights the deep bench, rather than focusing on a single wizard, is a telling sign of the 1886 ethos: unpretentious quality and comfortable fun.

The most dramatic cocktail on the menu is undoubtedly The Smoking Jacket, a Lacey Murillo cocktail served in a brandy snifter.  The base is Pot Still Irish Whiskey with house-made 1886 tobacco bitters, maplewood smoke and orange-vanilla ash.  As the smoke fills up and rises out of the glass, other patrons will inevitably look at your cocktail with curiousity and perhaps a twinge of jealously.  The cocktail is completed with the addition of the orange-vanilla ash, which adds a sweet and smoky element.  With such strong visual and olfactory elements there is a danger that the flavor might not live up to the other senses, melting away like the smoke into the night air.  Fortunately the taste delivers, enabling this take on an Old Fashioned to be a feast for all of your senses.

Marcos Tello descrived Brady Weise's Coffee and Cigarettes as "a chocolate version of a White Russian, but it's lengthened with stout, so it has this heavy chocolate coffee note and looks like coffee.  So when you drink this cocktail, you get the chocolate and coffee notes, and then you eat the cigarette and the vanilla flavor comes in. From afar, it actually looks like someone drinking their coffee and eating their cigarette."
The cocktail is made with Vodka, Dark Crème de Cacao, Yeti Stout, Hand Whipped Cream, & Vanilla Paper Rolled Cigarette.  The coffee notes from the Stout Beer come through loud and clear as this cocktail embodies both themes of smoke and beer.

On a cold night the warming effect of a Grog Logged, a creation of Greg Gertmenian, is just what the doctor ordered.  The cocktail is made with Black Rum and 1886's own proprietary grog recipe which includes ale, sugar and lime.  The drink name is a tribute to Jeff "Beachbum" Berry.  The cocktail is served in a jar wrapped in a koozie made out of rope.  This beverage is as potent as it is warm.

Another noteworthy addition to the 1886 repertoire is Danny Cymbal's Oak Knoll Manhattan, which is a twist on the classic incorporating housemade mulled wine vermouth.  It incorporates Bonded Bourbon with dry vermouth, mulled vermouth and garnished with dried sugar (the snowflake in the cocktail above).   The vermouth is housemade mulled wine vermouth utilizing several locally grown spices and botanicals.  Now Pasadena has its own Manhattan variation.  Who knows, perhaps soon bartenders will name their versions after neighborhoods in the area instead of those in Brooklyn.

Whether it is house-mulled vermouth, house-made bitters or creating their own grog, 1886 is focusing on putting their own touches on their cocktails by making their own ingredients.  The other new additions to the Winter Menu are:

Con Abuelita: Ancho-Chile infused Reposado Tequila, 1886 Hot Chocolate Mix, & Ancho-Chile Marshmallow
Chic(ory) Flip: Chicory-Coffee infused Rye Whiskey, Yeti Stout, One Whole Egg, & Carmelized Chicory-Coffee Sugar
Pimm’s Cup No. 2: Scotch based Pimm’s No. 2, citrus juices, ginger, mint, cucumber, & soda water Holland Daze: Bols Genever, Housemade Pistachio Orgeat, Maraschino Liqueur, Lemon & Housmade Sambuca Bitters
Per-Sin-Amen: Mescal, Fresh Persimmons, Housemade Cinnamon Bark Syrup, Lime, & Chocolate-Creole Bitters

1886 at the Raymond: 1250 South Fair Oaks Avenue, Pasadena.  Phone: 626.441.3136 | theraymond.com

The Scene: 1886 Anniversary Party

1886, the Pasadena cocktail bar created by Marcos Tello and Aidan Demarest inside The Raymond restaurant, recently celebrated its 1st anniversary.  There had not been anyplace in the area that offered cocktails on this level until 1886 opened and the neighborhood has really embraced it.

The parking lot was tented and there was ample cocktails, spirits and snacks galore.  Buffalo Trace (above) was one of the sponsors, so there was no danger of being bourbon-less at this party.  Beef and chicken skewers, canapes of foie gras, a table laden with cheese were just some of the bounty on offer.  This was the true kickoff to the holiday season.

Lacey Murillo (below), one of the bartenders at 1886, was making Hudson Baby Bourbon cocktails in the tent; it was hard to pry us away from her bar.  Inside, Danny Cymbal, Garrett McKechnie were turning out Therapists and other signature boozy house concoctions.  The turnout for the festivities was impressive as several hundred revelers enjoyed the plentiful refreshments.  As a bonus there was even live music.  It was great to see so many people there to celebrate the success.  To those who are skeptical that customers at suburban locations will embrace quality classic cocktails, 1886 is exhibit A.  Case closed.  If you haven't been, what are you waiting for?

1886 at the Raymond: 1250 S. Fair Oaks Avenue, Pasadena.  Phone: (626) 441-4770.

Fall Cocktails & Barrel Aging at 1886

1886, the Pasadena bar which recently won the award for "Best Really Hidden Well Known Bar" from LA Weekly, has been continuing to turn out excellent drinks since Marcos Tello and Aidan Demarest consulted on its creation last year.  Head bartender Garrett McKechnie recently released his fall cocktail list, which is the first where he has truly driven the program.  Since the bar opened last year, a patio has been added and the customer base has grown, spilling out from the main room and filling up the patio.  1886 has truly filled a niche that hadn't been apparent before it opened.

A new addition to the program is the launch of 1886's first barrel aged cocktail, the Vintage Caprice.  The Caprice, made with Beefeater Gin, Benedictine, Dry Vermouth and orange bitters was aged in a barrel seasoned with sherry.  This was no small barrel; 24 liters of Beefeater, 6 liters of Benedictine and 6 liters of Dolin vermouth went into it.  Half of the first batch was removed from the barrel after 4 months and the remainder was left to further age.  The Caprice aging in the barrel will be eight months old at the end of the month.  I recently had the opportunity to try a freshly made Caprice and the 4 month and 7 month aged Vintage Caprices.  It was really instructive to taste how the cocktail evolved through the aging process.  The rough edges literally melted away and the final end product of the 7-8 month old Vintage is a thing of beauty.  Something not to be missed.

When the team at 1886 decided to embark on the barrel aging process, they reached out to Erick Castro, the West Coast brand ambassador for Beefeater & Plymouth Gins.  He was able to procure a barrel for the aging process and as much gin as the bar needed to fill up the ample vessel. Marcos Tello collaborated with the bartending staff at 1886 to help decide which cocktail they should age.  They selected gin as the base spirit because as 1886 bartender Danny Cymbal said, "lots of bars were doing whiskey-based, darker cocktails, but the end result was hidden by the color of the liquid.  So we decided to try it with a lighter alcohol."

Bartenders suggested various cocktails to be the one that was barrel aged and after much discussion and sampling of the options, it was Cymbal's suggestion of the Caprice that was selected.  Ironically he is not a fan of the unaged Caprice, "I wanted to choose something not all that great to see if it could be improved in the barrel," he explained.

I recommend trying the taste comparison yourself by sampling the fresh, 4 month and 8 month versions of the Vintage Caprice.

The Indian Summer is a good choice for a warm autumn evening as the watermelon juice and jalapeno blend to take summer into fall.  The cocktail is made with Blanco Tequila, agave syrup, watermelon juice, cilantro, jalapeno, watermelon chunks and chili salt.  This drink is more on the refreshing and juicy side.

One of my favorites from the new list is the Therapist.  It is from the Stirred section of the cocktail list, which is where I recommend visitors begin their ordering as it also includes the Vintage Caprice.  The Therapist is made with Highland Park 12 year single malt Scotch (the same stuff that is so wonderful in the Scottish Cashmere at Drago Centro), Drambuie, Carpano Antica, chocolate bitters, and carmelized orange essence.  Another fan of the bar named Aaron (not me) got a shoutout on the menu as he helped inspire this tasty concoction with a reference to fashion designer Alexander McQueen.  It is aromatic and multilayered.

There are four sections on the menu including the aforementioned Stirred, as well as Regional, Shaken and Seasonal.  In addition to the Caprice and Therapist, El Jimador, a tequila based cocktail created by Tello is featured.  The Regional Section includes the 4th iteration of Tello's Pimm's collection, known appropriately as Pimm's #4, which includes Jamaican Rum and his top secret recipe for Pimms, topped with Ting's Grapefruit Soda.  The other two cocktails in the section each pay homage.  The first, 1886 Kentucky Colonel (no relation to Colonel Sanders), was the house cocktail at the Hotel Bel Air when legendary bartender Dale DeGroff was behind the stick there in the 1980s, and the second, the Raymond Hill Smash is dedicated to the hill behind 1886 where the Raymond Hotel once stood.  The Colonel is made with boubon, Benedictine, orange, Angostura bitters and the Smash is made with Cognac, mint and oranges.

The Seasonal section includes the Indian Summer, as well as the Malted Mule, a collaboration between bartender Lacey Murillo and The Raymond pastry chef Jeff Haines that includes homemade gingersnap ice cream, Lemon Hart 151, Mt. Gay Eclipse aged rum, Jamaican rum, and homemade barley malt syrup topped with ginger ale.  That is a lot of Caribbean flavors all in one beverage.  The final seasonal offering is the 1886 Chin Chin, an adaptation of a cocktail created by Sammy Ross of Milk & Honey.  Note Ross also created the Penicillin, so he is truly a creator of modern classics.

The Shaken section has one original and two tributes.  The original is the St. Elmo's Fire from bartender Brady Weise, a beer cocktail made with 90 Minute Dogfish Head IPA, gin, aperol and lime juice.  Drinking one of these might just Emilio Estevez to drive after you in the snow.  The Big Mac cocktail is a bourbon and berries beverage from Damian Windsor of the Roger Room and the Earl Grey Martini is a gin sour from Audrey Saunders of the Pegu Club in New York, another modern cocktail legend.

Now instead of Pasadena residents driving downtown to get their cocktail fix, traffic is going the other way as folks from all over LA are making the pilgrimage to 1886.  This latest menu further solidifies its place among the top tier cocktail establishments in the city.

1886 at the Raymond: 1250 S. Fair Oaks, Pasadena.  Phone:: (626) 441-3136. Web: www.theraymond.com

Vertical Bistro: Sunday Night Fried Chicken

Lately fried chicken seems to be everywhere in foodie circles and restaurant menus, along with gourmet hamburgers and desserts with either salt or pork or both.  Vertical Bistro launches its entry into the All You Can Eat fried chicken sweepstakes with a $29 Sunday dinner, a concept that Eva Restaurant had success with last year and which Le Saint Amour also launched in this month.

On a recent Sunday the meal began with a first course of poached hen egg, bacon grits and frisee (above).  I ate the hen egg and skipped the rest of the dish with the pork in it.  The egg was cooked just right with a warm runny center.  The second course was the star attraction, the fried chicken, which came with a variety of sides including collared greens, slaw, loaded smashed potatoes and jalapeno corn bread.

The side dishes were great.  The slaw was refreshing and didn't include mayonnaise, which earned bonus points with me. The potatoes were rich, light and fluffy.  The sides were generously portioned and like the chicken were all you can eat.  The fried chicken (below) arrived alongside the sides and was good but not amazing.  The chicken was nicely crispy and the crispy outer layer stayed on when taking a bite.  (Nothing is sadder than seeing all the breading/crust fall off of a piece of chicken once it has been bitten or cut into.)  I just wish the chicken had been moister; it was too dry.  That did not stop me from having a second portion.

The jalapeno corn bread was a nice balance between the sweetness of the corn and the kick from the japapeno peppers.  This was not a dessert, as some corn breads often taste like.

Dessert was a choice of apple tart with vanilla gelato or blood orange & pear sorbet.  I chose the tart and was pleased.  The caramel and apple are a classic combination and this version did not disappoint.

At $29, for all the meal includes, the Sunday night Fried Chicken dinner is a good value and a fun way to eat. The chicken and the side dishes are served family style, and everyone can have as much as they want of anything.  For only $9 more you can have a generous carafe of wine with your meal, which I gladly did.  My dinner companion and I ate in the lounge and it was quite comfortable; I think I prefer it to the main dining room.

Vertical Wine Bistro: Upstairs at 70 North Raymond Avenue, Pasadena.  Phone: (626) 795-3999.  Website: http://verticalwinebistro.com

Going Vertical: Laurent Quenoiux comes to Pasadena

I was recently invited to try Vertical Wine Bistro, the wine focused restaurant and lounge in Pasadena that recently brought on Laurent Quenioux of Bistro LQ to revamp the menu.  Arianna of GrapeSmart and I shared a variety of items on the menu.  Vertical is owned by Gale Anne Hurd, the former Mrs. Jim Cameron, and has had a tumultuous year in which David Haskell who was brought on last October to update the restaurant, left in March after eight months. [updated to reflect Haskell's length of tenure]

Quenoiux is known for adventurous flavors and unusual combinations, so I was curious as to how his cuisine would play in Pasadena, an area known for its culinary conservatism.  I never found out, as the avante garde cuisine of Quenioux which he showcases in dishes like Venison Tartare with Green Chartruese Gelee on his dinner menu at Bistro LQ is nowhere to be found on the Vertical menu.  The Pasadena menu is significantly more tame, which is probably a smart move to appeal to the local clientele.  Overall, the meal was enjoyable but not destination-worthy.

The best way to use Vertical is to treat it as a wine bar that has better food than you'd expect rather than as a restaurant to plan dinner around.  The wine list has among the most wines by the glass available in the Los Angeles area, with approximately 90 selections.  The bottle selection is also huge with over 700 selections.  The by the glass list includes seven different wine flights, which include an unusual option to sample three wines from Greece as well as the option for a customized flight.  The wine program is where Vertical excels and their now sommellier/wine director has a strong base in European wines, of which Vertical has a deep cellar.

The happy hour menu, which is available in the bar/lounge is offered from 5 pm - 7 pm from Tuesday through Sunday and 10 pm - midnight on Tuesday through Thursday, the cheese selection and the charcuterie are excellent options to nosh on while you work your way through the dozens of wines you can try.

We began with corn fritters ($12) which are fried corn fritters topped with smoked salmon and crème fraiche.   These were different than I expected in that the corn fritters acted the part of the rice in a piece of nigiri sushi, except they were crunchy.  They are available both on the Lounge/Happy Hour menu as well as on the Taste & Share section of the dinner menu.

A highlight of the menu is the cheese selection.  Nine were on offer, although only five of those were available.  The Valdeon, a blue cheese from Spain made from cow and goat milk was my favorite of those we tried.  The flavor was assertive and the texture was creamy.  The Brillat Savarin, an old favorite, was excellent as usual.

The Creamy Polenta (above) with poblano chiles and queso fresco had a texture that was not what I was expecting.  It was extremely thick, almost like gooey cheese.

Truffled macaroni & cheese was enjoyable.  It was served in a large crock and was piping hot.  What's not to like?

The Duck Two Ways was a confit leg and seared breast with pomegranate glaze, yuzu curd, shishito puree and miso jus.  The confit was the best part of the dish as it was full of flavor, having been cooked in its own fat.  The Asian flavors in the sauce imparted a robust flavor to the duck breast.

If the goal was to provide a comfortable place in the Pasadena area to enjoy wine by the glass or bottle, while having the option to have a bite to eat while sipping the vino, then Vertical has succeeded.  If the plan was to have the cuisine be a draw to attract customers from beyond the region, then they have missed the mark.  If I am in the neighborhood at the Norton Simon, Huntington or Cal Tech, I'd be happy to return to Vertical, but for me the lounge option would likely be what I'd opt for as it provides the most flexibility.  However I don't see driving from the Westside solely to dine there.  For locals, Vertical is a glass half full, with its extensive wine program, small plates, and relaxed atmosphere in the lounge.  To that, I raise my glass.

Vertical Wine Bistro: Upstairs at 70 North Raymond Avenue, Pasadena. Phone: (626) 795-3999. Website: http://verticalwinebistro.com/

Intelligentsia Pasadena: Open Today

Pasadena and San Gabriel Valley java fans can rejoice as the Pasadena branch of Intelligentsia Coffee opened today on Colorado Boulevard in Old Town Pasadena. In addition to serving coffee, tea and pastries, this branch of Intelligentsia serves food from caterer Matthew Poley of Heirloom L.A.

Today they sold out of most of the food menu early, so if you want to be sure to get your choice of items, arrive early. See menu blackboard below with most items crossed out, including the signature lasagna cupcakes.



Only wild mushroom ravioli and roasted vegetable flatbread remained by the time of my visit. The lasagna cupcakes, the cheese sandwich with heirloom housemade Buratta, Sheep's Milk Ricotta, and Goat's Milk Chevre with Grilled Garlic Bread, and the "Black n Blue" Steak Salad piqued my interest for future visits.

The coffee selection is the same great brews fans of the Venice and Silverlake branches are used to, but unlike in those locations there was no wait today to get your order taken, as the word has not yet gotten out about this location. Expect that to change.



The interior of the shop is pictured above. A liquor license is in the works, so expect some draft and bottled beer options as well as some wine, once it is approved. Dinner is also expected to begin soon, perhaps in tandem with the liquor license.

Intelligentsia Pasadena: 55 East Colorado Blvd. Phone: (626) 578-1270. Website: intelligentsiacoffee.com