Friday, August 3, 2012

Red Sun BBQ Comes to the Sunset Strip

Overlooking the hubbub of the Sunset Strip, yet just above the mayhem, is Katana, the Japanese robata and sushi bar.  I was recently invited to visit their Red Sun BBQ, the weekly bbq party held on their patio each Sunday during the summer.  The patio is inviting and has a large seating area with tables as well as a lounge area with lower seating and coffee tables.  Lights are projected onto the building, which faces the famous Mondrian Hotel.

Highlights of the Red Sun BBQ menu include Yuzu Edamame ($5) which are pleasantly spicy with more of a kick than one would expect, which comes from the yuzukosho spice mix made from chili peppers, yuzu rind and salt.


My favorite portion of the menu was the fish selections, which in addition to Oysters on the Half Shell from the raw bar, also features Albacore Cannoli, Yellowtail Fresca, and a Koji Roll.  The Cannoli was a fun take on the classic Italian dessert, with a crunchy cannoli tube shell, filled with albacore sashimi, Maui onions, cucumber and a yuzu guacamole.  The crunch of the tube provided a great textural contrast to the contents.  Yellowtail fresca is a Latin take on sashimi as it is served with fresh lime juice and cilantro.


A visit to the Red Sun BBQ at Katana is not complete without the Salmon Tartare on Crispy Rice.  This signature dish of the restaurant is not specifically on the Red Sun menu but is available to those who ask and is not to be missed.  Katana does spicy right, whether in the Edamame, the Salmon Tartare or the Mustard (below), the chefs do not  shy away from heat and I commend that.  Spicy tuna or spicy salmon is often good but rarely truly spicy.  This version is and also benefits from the crunchiness of the crispy rice.


The menu also includes several selections from the robata bar, such as Kuributa Sausage Skewers with Karashi Mustard, Kurobuta Ribs and 40 Day Dry Aged New York Steak.  The Karashi Mustard served with the sausage skewer was a hit at my table due to its potent blend of ground mustard seeds and horseradish.  This sauce was powerful, and is not to be taken lightly.  The dry aged steak is cooked over bincho charcoals with a soy garlic sauce.

Kurobuta Ribs
Four signature cocktails are available.  They are by and large too sweet for my taste, although I found the Inochi Mizu, made with vodka, cucumber and lychee to be refreshing.  That is the best of the cocktails, though some of this izakaya style food lends itself better to beer, which is also available.

Inochi Mizu
The seafood such as the oysters and the albacore were highlights:



Red Sun BBQ at Katana
Sunday evenings through Labor Day: 8439 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood | 310.650.8585 | http://www.innovativedining.com/restaurants/katana


Sunday, July 22, 2012

Superba Snack Bar: Jason Neroni Resurfaces

Superba Snack Bar opened on Thursday evening to crowds that have been enthusiastic, packing the small restaurant from opening til close (midnight on weekends).  The new project from Chef Jason Neroni, formerly of Osteria La Buca, is located on Rose Avenue, just East of Main Street at the border of Santa Monica and Venice.  The menu has an Italian focus and is divided into Cold Cuts (cured meats etc), Snacks, From Our Backyards (vegetables) and From Our Hands (house-made pasta).  The dishes are small plates and meant to be shared and while no substitutions are permitted, they do offer gluten-free pasta in a nod to the many celiac and gluten-sensitive folks in their demographic.


Five "cold cuts" are on offer and they are priced $8 for 1, $18 for 3, or $25 for all 5.  The term "cold cuts" brings up images of deli platters and casual sandwich buffets.  These are nothing of the sort, but rather meats and terrines that Neroni has cured or prepared in-house.  Julia's chicken liver mousse is served with balsamic cherries (note they still contain the pits) and is scooped out of a container like a perfect quenelle shaped chocolate ice cream when plated.  This is no ice cream, but silky chicken liver that spreads easily on the provided toast.  Even better is the Duck rillette with tarragon and pickled green strawberries.  The rlilette is served in a jar, is packed with flavor and has a pleasing texture.


The snacks section of the menu includes pan con tomato, olive oil and sea salt (2 pieces for $8) and an ocean trout crudo that looked beautiful and which I would have ordered, but it had chorizo oil in it but with the no modifications rule, this wasn't an option for me.  Fried duck egg, papas bravas, truffle vinaigrette & tuna prosciutto is a savory treat with the runny yolk coating the potatoes below and the duck prosciutto (they were out of tuna proscuitto) adding another textural element as well as richness to the dish.


The vegetables Neroni serves come from farmers who grow the produce for him, or from the farmers market.  The most umami of the veggie options is the Cherry tomatoes, dashi broth, smoked tofu and shiso/basil.  This lovechild of agedashi tofu and a cherry tomato salad is a highlight of the menu.  The dashi broth is better than at most Japanese restaurants and the smoked tofu paired with the ripe cherry tomatoes is an inspired combination.  One would be remiss in not ordering this dish, and in leaving any drops of broth left in the bowl.


Pasta dishes have become Neroni's signature and they have a pride of place on the Superba menu.  The bucatini with carbonara, pancetta, milled black pepper and Aracuna egg and the Gnocchi with burrata and broccoli necks are the most frequently ordered so far.  The Garganelli with lamb bolognese, black garlic, ricotta salata and mint is a hearty dish and a satisfying end the main part of the meal.  The pasta was cooked to a pleasing degree of doneness and the meaty sauce clung to it well and the proportion of sauce to pasta was spot on.

The Dining Room @ Superba Snack Bar
Desserts are available, although I did not sample any on my visit.  The room is comfortable, with a chef's counter, and a mix of indoor and outdoor seating.  There is a large print on one wall with a repeating stylized pattern of holding hands.  The wine program while small is well thought out and includes several unusual bottles, such as a Greek white wine.  The atmosphere is conducive to stopping in for a light snack or a full meal, although if the restaurant continues to be packed - I can't see customers be willing to endure a long wait just to get a snack.

Currently Superba Snack bar is open for dinner seven nights a week from 5 pm - 11pm (midnight on weekends) and lunch and brunch will follow later once they get a handle on dinner service.

Well worth checking out.  Note that while I was recognized, this was not a hosted meal.

Superba Snack Bar: 533 Rose Avenue, Venice | 310.399.6400 | superbasnackbar.com

Sunday, June 17, 2012

Art Beyond the Glass: Today!



If you want to see the full talents of Los Angeles's cocktail community and support a great cause then there is no better place to be this afternoon and evening than Sadie, the site of the inaugural Art Beyond the Glass fundraiser.  Tickets are $50 at the door, cash only.  Daniel Djang of ThirstyinLA and Zahra Bates of Providence created this event to celebrate the many talents of the bartenders in Los Angeles and to benefit Inner-City Arts.

So many bartenders create cocktails that are worthy of being described as works of art.  Beyond that a number of bartenders, and liquor industry vets are artists in their own right, beyond what they mix in a drink.  Whether it is chalk art from Justin Pike of the Tasting Kitchen, live music from Erik Trickett of Roe Restaurant (former head bartender at 320 Main), DJ skills of Steve Livigni and Dave Fernie of Pour Vous or the magic skills of Josh Lucas of the Writer's Room, there will be perfromances to delight all of the senses.

The event runs from 3 pm - 8 pm and includes cocktails from 30+ bartenders, music, performances, art and spirits tastings and nibbles from Sadie chef Mark Gold.  This is literally the event of the year for cocktail aficionados in Los Angeles, so whether you have been wanting to try cocktails from Julian Cox of Sotto/Playa/Rivera/Short Order, Matt Biancaniello of Library Bar, Sangrita from Cari Ha and Jaymee Mandeville, now is your chance.  At $50 the event is a bargain for 5 hours of deliciousness and festivities.

Sadie: 1638 N. Las Palmas Ave, Hollywood | 323.467.0200 | www.SadieLA.com

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Taste of the Nation: This Sunday in West Hollywood

This Sunday from 1 - 4 pm the annual Taste of the Nation fundraiser moves to The Lot in West Hollywood to raise money for Share our Strength, the charity devoted to ending childhood hunger. 100% of all money raised will go to local Los Angeles food banks, which have seen increased demand during the long recession.

More than 40 restaurants will be participating, including newcomers such as Cliff's Edge, NIGHT + MARKET and Cooks County as well as classics such as Campanile and Joe's. Libations are given even more prominence this year, with many local bars, mixologists and craft brewers participating. The Spare Room at the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel will be featuring Plymouth Gin cocktails, Harvard & Stone will be featuring Miracle Mile Bitters and St. George Spirits and for the folks in the VIP tent, Steve Livigni, Pablo Moix and the whole Pour Vous team will be making a bevy of French influenced cocktails. There will be a Craft Beer Tent, which this year is focusing on collaborations between breweries and beer bars. Pairings include the Bruery and Beer Belly as well as Brewery Ommegang and The Golden State.

Tickets for the event are $25 for children 12-18 years old and $110 for adults. VIP tickets are $160. You can purchase tickets here - just click on the large "purchase tickets" link on the Taste of the Nation blog. Organizers have said that few tickets remain and they expect to see out, so I recommend you purchase your admission tickets quickly so you don't miss out on supporting a great cause and getting to try so many great restaurants and bars. Prepaid parking is $25.

Waylynn Lucas of Fonuts at a prior Taste of the Nation

Taste of the Nation: 1041 N. Formosa, West Hollywood | June 10th, 1 - 4 pm | Website

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Tonight at Sadie: Suntory Time!


San Francisco bartender Neyah White, the Suntory whiskey West Coast Brand Ambassador, will be holding court this evening at Sadie, the Hollywood restaurant and hot spot.  He will be guest bartending at Sadie tonight, the first in a planned series of guest bartenders.  Not only will he be making signature cocktails with the Hibiki, Yamazaki and Hakushu whiskeys, but there will be other special elements.

If the Suntory whiskey is not enough of a draw, there will be a Japanese ice carving demonstration in which blocks of ice are carved into perfect spheres.  Sadie beverage director Gio Martinez described the Japanese style of service as "one gesture of appreciation after another.  The act of taking the time to make perfectly shaped ice shows attention to detail and service that is so admirable and cool."

Your chance to experience the Bill Murray of whiskeys is tonight from 7 - 11 pm at Sadie.  I have tried these whiskeys and am a fan; these are truly delicious.  White is very understated and Martinez is the consummate host, so tonight should be a blast.  Kampai!

The Parlor at Sadie: 1638 N. Las Palmas, Hollywood | 323.467.0200 | www.sadiela.com

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Mo-Chica Now Open on 7th Street

Ricardo Zarate, the Food & Wine Magazine Best New Chef of 2011, has opened the new incarnation of his original restaurant Mo-Chica on 7th Street in the heart of Downtown LA.  The restaurant, which was previously in the food court Mercado La Paloma near USC has migrated to larger shnazzier quarters across the street from Mas Malo and Seven Grand and next door to Bottega Louie.  Mo-Chica serves a modern interpretation of Peruvian cuisine, with some Japanese influence. 


A new addition to the Mo Chica menu is a cocktail program designed by Deysi Alvarez of Picca, Chef Zarate's more upscale restaurant near Beverly Hills.  The list is short with six cocktails and has one standout, the Oaxacalifornia Love (pictured above right).  This cocktail is a mix of mezcal, tequila, lime juice and pineapple gomme.  The mezcal provides a spicy and smokey element that elevates the drink.  The Pisco Sour is also recommended.


During a recent friends and family meal I had the opportunity to try several dishes on the menu.  A highlight was the Colita de Res ($14), a savory oxtail dish that was packed with flavor.  The grain it is served on top of, trigo de mote, was a great accompaniment.  This is a must order.  Another dish which shouldn't be missed is the Pan Con Tuna ($10).  Spicy tuna, rocoto sauce and yuzu mayo are served on top of grilled bread.  A simple take on spicy tuna but is absolutely new and delicious.  This may be the next spicy tuna on crispy rice.


There are both communal tables and individual tables at the new Mo-Chica.  The interior feels spacious and even includes another room in back for additional seating.  The location is on a happening block is well situated for dropping in for a bite while sampling the many cocktail bars nearby.  Some will miss the haimish vibe of the Mercado, others will embrace the larger canvas the 7th Street location affords.  Zarate reopened Mo-Chica with his front of the house business partner Stephane Bombet who was everywhere on my visit, ensuring that this opening goes smoothly.  This may be the only place in town to try Alpaca while sipping on a craft cocktail.  That alone is reason to visit.

Mo-Chica: 514 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.622.3744 | www.mo-chica.com

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Derby Day Is Upon Us: Seersucker & Hats Welcome

This Saturday is the first leg of the Triple Crown of horse racing, better known as the Kentucky Derby.  At 3:23 on Saturday afternoon, the field of horses will begin their one and one quarter mile race to win the prize at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky.  Fortunately you do not need to be in Louisville to experience the pagentry and excitement of this legendary race.  Several venues here in Los Angeles will be hosting viewing parties, two of which are of particular note:

Hollis Bulleit, the heiress to the Bulleitt bourbon empire, will be hosting her annual derby party at Seven Grand Whiskey Bar in Downtown LA.  Admission is $20 and attendees will get to munch on barbeque and sip on mint juleps crafted with Bulleit bourbon.  The event is a benefit for Speed Rack, which supports female bartenders with breast cancer.  The first hundred folks through the door will receive a special glass and prizes will be awarded for best hat and best bow tie and seersucker.  I have attended this event in the past and can vouch that it is a good time.  Nobody has better hats than Hollis.



For those whom one type of julep is not enough, Marcos Tello will be mixing a variety of cocktails at the Los Angeles Athletic Club's 2nd Annual "Hold Your Horses" Kentucky Derby viewing party.  Entry to this fest includes an extensive Kentucky Derby inspired buffet (think Kentucky hot brown sandwiches, pecan tarts etc), a Marcos Tello handcrafted mint julep, live music from the Bastards of Belleville (a gypsy jazz quartet), and games.  As a bonus, attendees will receive a free drink at Seven Grand following their Hold Your Horses fest attendance.  In addition to his trifecta of juleps (Gin, Georgia and Kentucky), Tello will also be pouring whiskey flights.  Tickets are $35 and reservations can be made by calling (213) 630-5255.

Tello's juleps include a Gin Julep with inspired by Harry Johnson's 1882 bar manual that includes Bols Genever as its base, a Georgia Julep with Remy Martin VSOP Cognac and a Kentucky Mint Julep with the classic bourbon base.  All the juleps will include the traditional mint leaves and if you haven't had one from Marcos, then this is an opportunity not to be missed.

Either way you can't go wrong as you get to sip on mint juleps, eat some rather tasty Kentucky cooking, dress in your finest hats and seersucker and turn two minutes of race viewing into a whole afternoon's worth of adventure.

Seven Grand: 515 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.614.0736 | http://213nightlife.com/sevengrand

LA Athletic Club: 431 W. 7th Street, DTLA | 213.630.5255 | LAAC event website