Ammo

Ammo Cafe on Highland has been open for over 15 years, a discreet restaurant on Highland where locals and celebrities alike enjoy the reasonably priced quality Italian food in an unpretentious and comfortable ambiance.  Earlier this winter, the restaurant decided to raise its cocktail program to the level of its dining room menu by bringing on Jason Robey to consult on their cocktail list.

Robey, who gained notice in Los Angeles for reinventing the cocktail program at Michael's Restaurant in Santa Monica, has created a tasty list that draws on the local produce available at the farmer's markets, which both reflects his style and is a good match for the Ammo culinary philosophy.  Running the bar program is Laila Ayad, who executes Robey's list well and is excellent at the art of hospitality.  I am a fan of Robey's cocktails so was intrigued to see what was in store for me when I was invited to try the new menu.

The Johnny Green Spot (above) made with Tierra's anejo tequila, green chartreuse, meyer lemon juice, grapefruit juice, jalapeno and Thai basil was among the best cocktails I have had anywhere in the past year.  This is a destination worthy drink as the spicyness of the pepper and the tartness of the juices partnered with the herbal chartreuse and the kick of the tequila to just produce a beautiful combination.  Six ingredients can be the sign of too much going on in a cocktail, but I wouldn't lose any of them in this beauty.

Beer cocktails are having a moment right now, and the Belgian Sunrise deserves its place among the contenders as it uses not one but two brews in this cocktail.  Both Allagash White Ale and Lindemans Lambic Framboise mixed with Frambeau Liquor.  It is well constructed and the fruit in the beer mixed with the liquor gave it a sweet edge, which complemented the bubbles from the beer.

The smell of the burnt rosemary is the first aspect of the Maple Leaf Rag to hit your senses.  Black Maple Hill bourbon is a delicious product and mixed with lemon juice, maple syrup and bitters and finished with the aforementioned rosemary was a sensory experience that was both fragrant and delicious.  It may not replace the Japanese Maple created by Damian Windsor at the Roger Room as my favorite maple syrup cocktail, but it is a worthy libation.

At $18, the Grand Rep is the most expensive cocktail on the menu, due to the inclusion of the premium Ilegal Mezcal Reposado.  Ilegal is one of my favorite mezcals so I couldn't resist trying this smoky take on the margarita which also included Gran Marnier, lime juice, vanilla and applewood smoked salt.  Yes, smoked salt.  Because the smokiness of the mezcal was not enough.  Be sure to get some salt in every sip.

Alas even the Willet 5 Year Rye could not salvage the Citrus Fashioned (below) which also included lemon, orange and tangerine zest, maraschino jus and bitters.  I'd stick with a classic Old Fashioned any day over this concoction which did no favors to its similarly named relation as it was a watery mess.

The Highland Fizz (below) is effervescent as the house made ginger soda lightens up the lemon verbena infused vodka.  Nothing to get excited about but suitable for a mellow mood.

When light and bubbly is what you seek the Blood Orange Crush is a better option.  This Belle Casel Prosecco, Aperol, blood orange juice and fresh thyme is served on the rocks in a Collins glass with a blood orange slice garnish.  This is a classic Italian flavor combination and is pleasing as an aperitif or with a meal.

Another favorite, this time of the stirred variety, is the Dominicano, which is made with Citadelle gin and both Dolin Blanc and Rouge vermouths, Aperol and orange bitters.  Crisp and to the point, it was fun to see the incorporation of two Dolins in one cocktail.

The final cocktail on the list is the Sage Martini with Hendrick's Gin, lemon juice, lime juice and sage.

Fortunately there are bar bites to munch on that are great partners for the beverages.  The standouts for me were:

French breakfast radishes with Straus butter and sea salt ($4).  Sometimes simple ingredients with no fuss at all can be better than anything else and these radishes were simply crunchy and fresh.  A little butter and salt; I could have eaten the whole bunch.

The bread and crackers are not to be missed at Ammo ($3).  Apparently these crackers are a signature dish and they are addictive.

Baked Penne with aged white cheddar, fresh thyme and breadcrumbs ($8) is not to be missed.  My companions and I were battling for each forkful.  This puts what passes for mac and cheese in most restaurants in LA to shame.

Bar Manager Laila sent us into the night with some chocolate chip cookies which were really good.  The chunks of chocolate in the cookies were huge and they were a pleasant consistency - neither too soft nor too hard and crumbly.  

The neighborhood is lucky to have a Robey cocktail menu to sip on and Laila there to shake, stir and deliver an excellent experience behind the bar.  That Johnny Green Spot is something special.

Ammo: 1115 N. Highland Ave, Mid City | 323.871.2666 | www.ammocafe.com

Fall cocktails at Michael's Santa Monica

It has been six months since Michael's Santa Monica hired Jason Robey to relaunch their cocktail program.  He has infused the spirit and produce of the Santa Monica farmers' market into his cocktails by both growing his own fruits and vegetables for his drinks as well as buying from the Wednesday market.

Robey recently created a fall cocktail list, to take advantage of the changing seasons and products available. A particularly interesting one is the Borracha Remolacha, made with Revolucion Reposado Tequila, Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Lime Juice, Agave Nectar, Beet Juice, Orange Bitters.  It is a take on a margarita but the beet juice and smoky mezcal take it a slightly different direction.  The lollipop of bruleed orange rind is a playful touch.  When I see beet juice in a cocktail, I invariably think of Matthew Biancaniello's Breeder's Cup, which is a rather tasty gin drink that is a take on a Gordon's Cup, but this cocktail is nothing like that.  The Borracha Remolacha, which translates as Drunk Beet, has the startling color of the beets to throw you off of any margarita expectations you may have.  If only this was available at more Cinco de Mayo celebrations.

The Apple Blush is pure fall, like a less sweet apple juice for adults.  Mixed with Noah's Mill Bourbon, Meyer lemon juice, aged cinnamon simple syrup, fuji apple and a cranberry-pomegranate reduction, sipping on one transported me to a New England orchard.  The danger with apple drinks is that they will be sickly sweet, and thankfully this cocktail does not go over the edge.  It is shaken and served in a highball glass over ice and garnished with a slice of apple.  The version I tried was made with Buffalo Trace bourbon.  I suspect that it will be even better with the Noah's Mill.

The rest of the fall cocktail list is below:

Pumpkin the Great: Pumpkin Puree, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Jason’s Spiced Rum, Germain-Robin Apple Brandy, Cava

Dark Side of the Moon: Aviation Gin, Dolin Dry Vermouth, Blood Orange Juice, Lime, Orange Oil Simple Syrup, Crème de Violette

Smoke Love: Laphroaig 16yr Single Malt Scotch, Smoked Mezcal, Red Bell Pepper Simple Syrup, Basil, Cilantro, Grapefruit

Number 3: Confit-Washed Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Cardamaro, Leopold Bros. Georgia Peach Whiskey, Orange, Pepper, Angostora Bitters

Mary Rose: Cranberry-Ginger Infused Tito’s Vodka, Lime, Vanilla Simple Syrup, Charred Rosemary

Vera Cruz Cocktail: Chinaco Anejo Tequila, Fair Trade Kafe Liqueur, Aperol, Aztec Chocolate Bitters, Blood Orange Juice

Piscoretto Sour: Pisco, Amaretto, Egg White, Meyer Lemon, Demerra Sugar Simple Syrup, Peach Bitters

Michaels: 1147 3rd Street, Santa Monica.  Phone: (310) 451-0843.  Website: http://www.michaelssantamonica.com/

A Secret Password to a Fresh Deal @ Michael's in Santa Monica

I've been a fan of the cocktails at Michael's in Santa Monica ever since Chef McCarty brought on Jason Robey in April to launch a farm to glass cocktail program. Robey who worked at Bar & Kitchen in Downtown LA and with Giovanni Martinez and Joel Black at Les Deux Estate before coming to Michael's, has developed a cohesive menu that celebrates fresh and local ingredients.

Now on Friday and Saturday evenings during the month of June there is no reason not to stop by for one of Robey's drinks as with a secret password you can get a complimentary Bar Bite of your choice.  The bar bite choices include two I particularly enjoyed: Hiramasa Yellowtail Crudo, and Duck Confit and Wagyu Beef Sliders.  What is the magic word?  Burrata.

The current cocktail list includes:
• Six Shooter - Magellan Gin, Pernod, Lemon Bitters, Meyer Lemon Juice, Grapefruit Juice, Demerara, Sage, Dill ($12)
• Mary Rose - Cranberry/Ginger-Infused Tito’s Vodka, Vanilla Simple Syrup, Lime, Charred Rosemary ($12)
• The Big Red Hat - Don Julio Reposado Tequila, Yellow Chartreuse, Lime, Lemon-Clove Simple Syrup, Lavender, Grapefruit Foam ($16)
• Karai Karai - Yamazaki 12-yr Single Malt Scotch, Poblano/Jalapeño/Bell Pepper Simple Syrup, Lemon, Grapefruit, Chipotle Tabasco ($14)
• Wilbur’s Nemesis - Maker’s Mark Bacon Reduction, Leopold Bros. New York Apple Whiskey, Bulleit Rye, Dolin Rouge, Angostura Bitters, Torched Applewood-Smoked Bacon ($16)
• The Passion – House-made Spiced Rum, Passionfruit Juice, Lime Juice, Vanilla Simple Syrup, Grand Marnier, Prosecco ($15)
• Star of Africa – Star of Africa Tea-infused Tito’s Vodka, Kumquat-Thyme Simple Syrup, Lemon Verbena, Club Soda ($12)
• The Fortune Teller - Right Gin, Strawberry, Sugar Cube, Dolin Blanc, 10-Year Tawny Port/Balsamic/Pomegranate Molasses Reduction, Blue Cheese-Stuffed Olive ($12)

You can't go wrong with the Karai Karai.  So sidle up to the bar, get one of Robey's cocktails, say Burratta (and please) and enjoy a Bar Bite on the house.  Not a bad way to enjoy a Friday or Saturday evening.  Note, this deal is only available in the bar and lounge area.

The Mary Rose.  Photo courtesy of Michael's

Michael's: 1147 3rd Street, Santa Monica.  Phone: (310) 451-0843.  Website: http://www.michaelssantamonica.com/

A Garden Grows in Your Glass: Michael's Restaurant

Michael's Restaurant in Santa Monica was one of the originators of California cuisine and focuses on the seasonal bounty available locally here in Southern California.  Founder/owner Michael McCarty still aims to provide his customers with the freshest ingredients simply prepared to let them shine.  Now he has brought that same approach to the cocktails at his restaurant.  Michael's hired bartender Jason Robey to revamp the cocktail program and the restaurateur has such faith in the new program that he has reconfigured the restaurant to devote the entire interior space to a lounge setting with small bites and cocktails and with the garden functioning as the primary dining room.

Robey, most recently of Bar Kitchen in Downtown Los Angeles and Les Deux in Hollywood, has created a list of cocktails that emphasize the local produce, with lots of infusions and other house made ingredients.  I was recently invited to a media tasting to sample the new cocktails and bar bites.  I joined forces with Daniel of Thirsty in LA to try the full range of drinks and food.

The Regional Export is made with Jefferson Reserve Bourbon, Kelt VSOP Cognac, orgeat, vanilla simple syrup, lemon and egg white.  It is frothy and sweet but not overly so.  This take on the whiskey sour was a pleasant beginning to the tasting.

My personal favorite was the Karai Karai as it is spicy with a citrus tang.  It is made with Yamazaki 12 yr Single Malt Whiskey from Japan, Jalapeño-Bell pepper simple syrup, lemon, grapefruit and basil, with jalapenos floating in it as a garnish.  There was no denying the spiciness of this drink, even if the visible Jalapeño wasn't enough of a clue.  I am a big fan of the Yamazaki and it stood up well to the potent pepper.

The Schipol Layover is made with Bols Genever, Cynar, lemon juice, avocado honey and grapefruit juice.  The avocado honey, a new ingredient to me, is made with honey from an avocado grove and does not involve any avocados proper, although the honey tastes different than traditional honey.  The name of this cocktail is a tip of the hat to the Genever, as it refers to the airport in Amsterdam, in the Netherlands, where Genever is the national drink.

The Mary Rose is a mixture of Cranberry-Ginger Tito's Vodka, vanilla simple syrup, lime, and garnished with charred rosemary.  The charring of the rosemary adds a dramatic element to the cocktail.  When Daniel and I first got to Michael's, we saw Joel Black flaming some rosemary and the scent carried to us.  The cocktail itself did not have a lot of depth.

The final drink on the introductary list is the Big Red Hat, which is surprisingly yellow, not red.  The cocktail is made with Don Julio Reposado Tequila, Yellow Chartreuse, lime juice, lemon clove simple syrup, fresh lavender, and finished with a grapefruit foam.  The Big Red Hat is refreshing and light but with a backbone and strong citrus elements.  Each of the drinks is $12.

The new cocktail menu coincided with the launch of a new bar bites menu.  The options include Yellowtail Crudo ($12), Duck Prosciutto ($10), a Slider Duo ($12), and Sage & Lemon Popcorn ($8).

The Yellowtail Crudo arrived as three Chinese spoons of yellowtail sashimi topped with citrus, micro greens and sea salt.  These were light and tasty. Below, the Duck Prosciutto is served on top of crostini with arugula and pickled citrus.  The duck was good but the portion size feels small.

My favorite of the Bar Bites were the Duo of Sliders: one with Foie Gras and Market Berry Mostarda and the other with Wagyu Beef and Shaft's Blue Cheese.  These little sliders were rich and just a couple of bites each but full of as much flavor as a full size hamburger.

I'd agree with Daniel's assessment that the popcorn is the least interesting option, as it didn't taste of either sage or lemon.  The sliders and the yellowtail are attractive options to munch on while you enjoy Robey's new cocktails.

At $12 each, Robey's produce focused cocktails are fairly priced and it is great to see Michael's continue to evolve and extend its innovations from the plate to the cocktail glass.  The roof of the restaurant is being planted with produce for the bar program, so this summer expect some exciting things.  Robey is not afraid of spicy, even in Santa Monica, which bodes well for fans of well crafted cocktails.  Another big plus for the program is its setting as Michael's is relaxed but lively.  McCarty himself was there on the night I visited and he is enthusiastic about the changes.  It is commendable that McCarty is not afraid of making changes.  I recommend you check it out for yourself.

Michael's: 1147 3rd Street, Santa Monica.  Phone: (310) 451-0843.  Website: http://www.michaelssantamonica.com/

Now Open: Les Deux Estate

Giovanni Martinez and Joel Black of Les Deux Estate

Last night Les Deux Estate opened in the former club space on Las Palmas. The new incarnation is a gastropub with cocktails from Giovanni Martinez of the Buffalo Club, Joel Black (ex Comme Ca and Cana) and Jason Robey of Bar | Kitchen and occupies the front room facing the street.  "Our focus is on quality food and quality drinks with a modest but good beer selection," Martinez said.

The cocktail list is short, with seven selections, as the bartenders expect to be making a lot of Dealer's Choice in which the customer describes the flavor profile and spirit they are looking for and the bartender "does the rest."  Each of the three bartenders contributed 2-3 drinks to the list; fans of Black will be excited that he brought his signature Smashed Irishman (below) to the program.  The Irishman includes Jameson Irish Whiskey, Lemon, Basil, Red Bell Pepper, Honey and a housemade Guinness Reduction.

The kitchen is helmed by David Schmit, former sous chef at the Buffalo Club in Santa Monica.  The food menu is also short and heavy on classic American bar food, with options such as the Strait Up Burger ($11), Honey Sambal Wings ($10), and the LD Caesar Salad ($9) as well as some more refined options like the Roasted Beet Salad ($11), the 1/2 Jidori Roasted Chicken ($19) or the Pepper Crusted Salmon ($20).  The only dessert is Bourbon Bread Pudding, so Chef Schmit must have confidence that it is a winning dish.

Martinez said that they are hoping to be a neighborhood spot where locals can grab dinner, a snack or a drink from 6 pm - Midnight on Wednesday through Saturday evenings and be a respite from the large clubs nearby.  The cocktail list is seasonal and they most of their herbs on site.  They are currently growing chili peppers, herbs and cucumbers on the roof.  "We'll be doing market driven cocktails with classical execution and classic drinks with a market driven execution.  There are no holds barred as we develop the menu," Martinez enthusiastically commented.  Martinez's Highlander cocktail is below.  It includes Tequila Ocho Blanco, Drambuie, Thyme Infused Agave and Lemon Juice.  It was garnished with a sprig of thyme on top and tasted great; the tequila flavor predominated.

However, one thing to note is that the decor does not jibe with the gastropub concept. Just ignore that and head straight to the bar and get a cocktail. It is refreshing to see a list of drinks that 100% of which were developed by the bartenders making your cocktail in front of you. There was no consultant swooping in from out of town. Giovanni, Joel and Jason are veterans and it shows in their beverages.

It is refreshing to see a velvet rope, DJ/promoter driven place evolve into an establishment that respects quality. So don't expect any clipboard wielding women or burly bouncers blocking your way into Les Deux. The doors are wide open now, so feel free to check it out. Well-made drinks await you.

Les Deux Estate: 1638 N. Las Palmas,  just South of Hollywood Blvd.  Website: www.lesdeux.com