The Best Port in A Storm: Cliff's Edge Tonight

Port brings to mind the ruby colored wine you might have with your cheese course after a tasting menu or perhaps the contents of a crystal decanter in your grandfather’s study. Leave your preconceptions behind as tonight at Cliff’s Edge you have the opportunity to see the range of ports and to try them in a series of cocktail and punch recipes from Dave Wondrich, the author of Punch. Lorenzo Bakewell-Stone, the Global Brand Ambassador for Croft Port is in town and will be hosting an evening of port cocktails at Cliff’s Edge, the Silver Lake restaurant helmed by chef Ben Bailly. Along with the more established Ruby, Tawny and White ports, Croft Pink, the first Rose port will be incorporated into a cocktail. Two small plates, dessert, two port cocktails and a flight of port can all be yours for only $50. If that sounds like too much food and drink or too many ducats for your budget, you can try any of the 5 port cocktails or punches on offer for only $7 at the bar. Ben Bailly earned acclaim for his food at Petrossian and Fraiche and so tonight should be a fun opportunity to see what he has been up to in the kitchen at Cliff’s Edge. Bakewell-Stone represents some of the most well regarded ports including Taylor-Fladgate, Croft and Fonseca. He is in town from Porto, Portugal, from whence the wine gets its name. Whether you stop by for a cocktail or a full on meal, it will be an opportunity to see one of the latest cocktail trends firsthand as port may follow sherry as a fortified wine that becomes an essential and intriguing cocktail ingredient.

Cliff's Edge: 3636 West Sunset Blvd, Silver Lake | 323.666.6116 | http://www.cliffsedgecafe.com/

Ammo

Ammo Cafe on Highland has been open for over 15 years, a discreet restaurant on Highland where locals and celebrities alike enjoy the reasonably priced quality Italian food in an unpretentious and comfortable ambiance.  Earlier this winter, the restaurant decided to raise its cocktail program to the level of its dining room menu by bringing on Jason Robey to consult on their cocktail list.

Robey, who gained notice in Los Angeles for reinventing the cocktail program at Michael's Restaurant in Santa Monica, has created a tasty list that draws on the local produce available at the farmer's markets, which both reflects his style and is a good match for the Ammo culinary philosophy.  Running the bar program is Laila Ayad, who executes Robey's list well and is excellent at the art of hospitality.  I am a fan of Robey's cocktails so was intrigued to see what was in store for me when I was invited to try the new menu.

The Johnny Green Spot (above) made with Tierra's anejo tequila, green chartreuse, meyer lemon juice, grapefruit juice, jalapeno and Thai basil was among the best cocktails I have had anywhere in the past year.  This is a destination worthy drink as the spicyness of the pepper and the tartness of the juices partnered with the herbal chartreuse and the kick of the tequila to just produce a beautiful combination.  Six ingredients can be the sign of too much going on in a cocktail, but I wouldn't lose any of them in this beauty.

Beer cocktails are having a moment right now, and the Belgian Sunrise deserves its place among the contenders as it uses not one but two brews in this cocktail.  Both Allagash White Ale and Lindemans Lambic Framboise mixed with Frambeau Liquor.  It is well constructed and the fruit in the beer mixed with the liquor gave it a sweet edge, which complemented the bubbles from the beer.

The smell of the burnt rosemary is the first aspect of the Maple Leaf Rag to hit your senses.  Black Maple Hill bourbon is a delicious product and mixed with lemon juice, maple syrup and bitters and finished with the aforementioned rosemary was a sensory experience that was both fragrant and delicious.  It may not replace the Japanese Maple created by Damian Windsor at the Roger Room as my favorite maple syrup cocktail, but it is a worthy libation.

At $18, the Grand Rep is the most expensive cocktail on the menu, due to the inclusion of the premium Ilegal Mezcal Reposado.  Ilegal is one of my favorite mezcals so I couldn't resist trying this smoky take on the margarita which also included Gran Marnier, lime juice, vanilla and applewood smoked salt.  Yes, smoked salt.  Because the smokiness of the mezcal was not enough.  Be sure to get some salt in every sip.

Alas even the Willet 5 Year Rye could not salvage the Citrus Fashioned (below) which also included lemon, orange and tangerine zest, maraschino jus and bitters.  I'd stick with a classic Old Fashioned any day over this concoction which did no favors to its similarly named relation as it was a watery mess.

The Highland Fizz (below) is effervescent as the house made ginger soda lightens up the lemon verbena infused vodka.  Nothing to get excited about but suitable for a mellow mood.

When light and bubbly is what you seek the Blood Orange Crush is a better option.  This Belle Casel Prosecco, Aperol, blood orange juice and fresh thyme is served on the rocks in a Collins glass with a blood orange slice garnish.  This is a classic Italian flavor combination and is pleasing as an aperitif or with a meal.

Another favorite, this time of the stirred variety, is the Dominicano, which is made with Citadelle gin and both Dolin Blanc and Rouge vermouths, Aperol and orange bitters.  Crisp and to the point, it was fun to see the incorporation of two Dolins in one cocktail.

The final cocktail on the list is the Sage Martini with Hendrick's Gin, lemon juice, lime juice and sage.

Fortunately there are bar bites to munch on that are great partners for the beverages.  The standouts for me were:

French breakfast radishes with Straus butter and sea salt ($4).  Sometimes simple ingredients with no fuss at all can be better than anything else and these radishes were simply crunchy and fresh.  A little butter and salt; I could have eaten the whole bunch.

The bread and crackers are not to be missed at Ammo ($3).  Apparently these crackers are a signature dish and they are addictive.

Baked Penne with aged white cheddar, fresh thyme and breadcrumbs ($8) is not to be missed.  My companions and I were battling for each forkful.  This puts what passes for mac and cheese in most restaurants in LA to shame.

Bar Manager Laila sent us into the night with some chocolate chip cookies which were really good.  The chunks of chocolate in the cookies were huge and they were a pleasant consistency - neither too soft nor too hard and crumbly.  

The neighborhood is lucky to have a Robey cocktail menu to sip on and Laila there to shake, stir and deliver an excellent experience behind the bar.  That Johnny Green Spot is something special.

Ammo: 1115 N. Highland Ave, Mid City | 323.871.2666 | www.ammocafe.com

Warm Up with the Winter Cocktail Menu at 1886

1886 only gets better and better.  Pasadena's premiere cocktail spot has settled into a comfortable groove of innovation in its just over one year of existence.  Cocktail consultant Marcos Tello still provides guidance but now the team led by talented head barman Garrett McKechnie has been allowed to shine.  The new winter menu, which is smoke and beers themed, has cocktails created by many of the staff members.  This collective approach which highlights the deep bench, rather than focusing on a single wizard, is a telling sign of the 1886 ethos: unpretentious quality and comfortable fun.

The most dramatic cocktail on the menu is undoubtedly The Smoking Jacket, a Lacey Murillo cocktail served in a brandy snifter.  The base is Pot Still Irish Whiskey with house-made 1886 tobacco bitters, maplewood smoke and orange-vanilla ash.  As the smoke fills up and rises out of the glass, other patrons will inevitably look at your cocktail with curiousity and perhaps a twinge of jealously.  The cocktail is completed with the addition of the orange-vanilla ash, which adds a sweet and smoky element.  With such strong visual and olfactory elements there is a danger that the flavor might not live up to the other senses, melting away like the smoke into the night air.  Fortunately the taste delivers, enabling this take on an Old Fashioned to be a feast for all of your senses.

Marcos Tello descrived Brady Weise's Coffee and Cigarettes as "a chocolate version of a White Russian, but it's lengthened with stout, so it has this heavy chocolate coffee note and looks like coffee.  So when you drink this cocktail, you get the chocolate and coffee notes, and then you eat the cigarette and the vanilla flavor comes in. From afar, it actually looks like someone drinking their coffee and eating their cigarette."
The cocktail is made with Vodka, Dark Crème de Cacao, Yeti Stout, Hand Whipped Cream, & Vanilla Paper Rolled Cigarette.  The coffee notes from the Stout Beer come through loud and clear as this cocktail embodies both themes of smoke and beer.

On a cold night the warming effect of a Grog Logged, a creation of Greg Gertmenian, is just what the doctor ordered.  The cocktail is made with Black Rum and 1886's own proprietary grog recipe which includes ale, sugar and lime.  The drink name is a tribute to Jeff "Beachbum" Berry.  The cocktail is served in a jar wrapped in a koozie made out of rope.  This beverage is as potent as it is warm.

Another noteworthy addition to the 1886 repertoire is Danny Cymbal's Oak Knoll Manhattan, which is a twist on the classic incorporating housemade mulled wine vermouth.  It incorporates Bonded Bourbon with dry vermouth, mulled vermouth and garnished with dried sugar (the snowflake in the cocktail above).   The vermouth is housemade mulled wine vermouth utilizing several locally grown spices and botanicals.  Now Pasadena has its own Manhattan variation.  Who knows, perhaps soon bartenders will name their versions after neighborhoods in the area instead of those in Brooklyn.

Whether it is house-mulled vermouth, house-made bitters or creating their own grog, 1886 is focusing on putting their own touches on their cocktails by making their own ingredients.  The other new additions to the Winter Menu are:

Con Abuelita: Ancho-Chile infused Reposado Tequila, 1886 Hot Chocolate Mix, & Ancho-Chile Marshmallow
Chic(ory) Flip: Chicory-Coffee infused Rye Whiskey, Yeti Stout, One Whole Egg, & Carmelized Chicory-Coffee Sugar
Pimm’s Cup No. 2: Scotch based Pimm’s No. 2, citrus juices, ginger, mint, cucumber, & soda water Holland Daze: Bols Genever, Housemade Pistachio Orgeat, Maraschino Liqueur, Lemon & Housmade Sambuca Bitters
Per-Sin-Amen: Mescal, Fresh Persimmons, Housemade Cinnamon Bark Syrup, Lime, & Chocolate-Creole Bitters

1886 at the Raymond: 1250 South Fair Oaks Avenue, Pasadena.  Phone: 626.441.3136 | theraymond.com

Mezze's New Bar Menu

Chef Micah Wexler's Meditteranean restaurant Mezze opened to strong reviews this March in the former Sona location on La Cienega.  Mezze has a striking interior and opened up the space with a large open kitchen.  The glass provides an expensive view into the gleaming white kitchen where Wexler and his team prepare the small plates the restaurant is known for.

Earlier this month Mezze launched a new Bar Menu, providing the opportunity to try Wexler's cuisine in sharable small portions, suitiable for munching along with one of the signature cocktails.

A highlight of the cocktail list is the Baharat Milk ($10), below, is made with Barbancourt 8 Year, Remy VS, Baharat Milk and grated pistachios.  The frothy milk blends well with the rich Haitian rum and the Cognac and the grated pistachios add both an attractive dash of color as well as a sweet nutty finish.

The cocktail list, along with the beers and wines are half price during the twice nightly "happy hour" at the bar from 6 - 7:30 pm and again from 11 pm - 1 am.  The new bar menu is available all night, although not at half price.

The rest of the cocktails on the list are:

Grapefruit Sergio: St. Germain, Vodka, lemon juice, grapefruit juice ($10)
Sumac 75: Sparkling Wine, Cocchi Americano, Sumac Syrup ($11)
Angeleno: Gin, Aperol, orange juice, lemon juice, bitter lemon soda ($12)
George Dickel Pickle: Whiskey, mustard seed, lemon, celery, serrano pepper ($11)
Mongo: Don Julio Anejo Tequila, Peychaud and Angostura Bitters, Lemon Juice ($16)

The new bar menu includes:

Zatar Bread and Olive Oil ($4)
Warm Pita with Honey and Butter ($4)
Grandma’s Chopped Chicken Livers with Grape Mostarda and Mini-Challah ($10)
Eggplant Hushpuppies with Onion Fondue ($6)
Potato Knish with House Mustard ($7)
Merguez Sausage Flatbread with Tomato Jam and Aleppo Pepper ($14)
Egyptian Rebel Fries with Heirloom Beans, Brisket, and Syrian Cheese ($10)
Braised Moroccan Chicken Wings with Picholine Olives and Golden Raisins ($9)
Brisket Shawarma or Falafel Sandwich with Amba and House Pickles ($8)
The Kleinfeld Sandwich: Chicken Shawarma with Amba and House Pickles on a Sesame Baguette ($10)
 Brussels Sprouts with Soft Boiled Egg and Soujouk ($8)

Mezze: 401 N. La Cienega Blvd, Mid City.  Phone: 310.657.4103 | Website: mezzela.com

The Scene: 1886 Anniversary Party

1886, the Pasadena cocktail bar created by Marcos Tello and Aidan Demarest inside The Raymond restaurant, recently celebrated its 1st anniversary.  There had not been anyplace in the area that offered cocktails on this level until 1886 opened and the neighborhood has really embraced it.

The parking lot was tented and there was ample cocktails, spirits and snacks galore.  Buffalo Trace (above) was one of the sponsors, so there was no danger of being bourbon-less at this party.  Beef and chicken skewers, canapes of foie gras, a table laden with cheese were just some of the bounty on offer.  This was the true kickoff to the holiday season.

Lacey Murillo (below), one of the bartenders at 1886, was making Hudson Baby Bourbon cocktails in the tent; it was hard to pry us away from her bar.  Inside, Danny Cymbal, Garrett McKechnie were turning out Therapists and other signature boozy house concoctions.  The turnout for the festivities was impressive as several hundred revelers enjoyed the plentiful refreshments.  As a bonus there was even live music.  It was great to see so many people there to celebrate the success.  To those who are skeptical that customers at suburban locations will embrace quality classic cocktails, 1886 is exhibit A.  Case closed.  If you haven't been, what are you waiting for?

1886 at the Raymond: 1250 S. Fair Oaks Avenue, Pasadena.  Phone: (626) 441-4770.

Scottish Cashmere @ Drago Centro

A highlight of Jaymee Mandeville's new cocktail list at Drago Centro is the Scottish Cashmere ($12).  This stirred drink is made with Highland Park 12 Year aged Scotch, Fig and Basil Infused Water and is served over a single large ice cube with a fig as garnish.

The cocktail is smooth with a hint of basil and fig.  The Scottish Cashmere is elegant, goes down easy, but you'll want to savor this one, so take it a sip at a time.  Highland Park is one of my favorite Scotch producers; it is unusual to see it as the base in a cocktail.  It comes from the Orkney Isles and is the Northernmost whiskey distillery in the world.  If this cocktail represents the first lap since the passing of the torch from Michael Shearin, the bar program at Drago Centro is in good hands.

Drago Centro: 525 S. Flower Street, Downtown.  Phone: (213) 228-8998.  Website: http://www.dragocentro.com/

Fall Cocktails At La Descarga Arrive Via Havana

Although you wouldn't know it from the heatwave, fall has arrived at La Descarga and fresh cocktails have come to town straight from Havana on a Pan Am flight.  For the first time Pablo Moix and Steve Livigni, who jointly created the cocktail program at La Descarga, left the list in the capable hands of head bartender Kenny Arbuckle (below), with the assist of a couple of his colleagues  What better way to beat the heat than by sipping several of these refreshing cocktails?

Kenny Arbuckle

My favorite of the list is the L.A. Lupe, made with Leblon cachaca, Velvet Falernum, St. Vincent's coconut, lime juice, and tonic.  The cocktail is served up in a highball glass with ice.  This drink is not technically new, but was a La Descarga favorite that has been brought back from retirement, and with good reason as the clean flavor entices sip after sip.

LA Lupe 

Another crowd pleaser is the Blood and Samba, a Caribbean take on the classic Blood and Sand.  In this version, cachaca stands in for the Scotch, alongside Cherry Heering, Carpano Antica and Orange Juice.  This shaken cocktail was served in a coupe and garnished with a lemon peel.  There is a lot going on in this drink and fans of classic cocktails should particularly enjoy this twist.

Blood and Samba

Other cocktails on the new list include:

Cartographer: El Dorado 12 Year Rum, Cynar, Angostura Bitters, Cane Sugar

Bermuda Swizzle: Goslings Dark Rum, Velvet Falernum, Lime Juice, Sugar, Angostura Bitters, Pineapple

Martinique Smuggler: Clement Priemere Canne Rhum Agricole, Disaronno Amaretto, Orgeat, Grapefruit Juice, Lime Juice

Avesta: Bulleit Rye, Benedictine, Lime Juice, Angostura Bitters and topped with Ginger Beer

Onbeat: House Spitis 100% Barley White Dog Whiskey, Lemon Juice, Mang-Basil Syrup, Bitter Truth Lemon Bitters

Circumnavigate: Blanco Tequila, Lime Juice, Tamarind Syrup, Bitter Truth Xocolatl Syrup, Ghost Pepper Salt

Maguey Sour: Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Benedictine, Orgeat, Lemon Juice, Egg White, Garnished with Grated Nutmeg

Aperol M’ama: Encanto Pisco, Aperol, Lime Juice, Sugar

La Descarga has added several noteable rums to their program, including Plantation, Rum Abuelo and Rhum Clement and their total selection is now more than 100.  If you can't find a rum to satisfy your craving, then you aren't looking hard enough.  And on Wednesday nights, there is a new live band (the Conganas) playing samba and vintage Latin music, perfect for dancing the evening away.

Maguey Sour

La Descarga: 1159 Western Blvd, Hollywood.  Phone: (323) 466-1324.  Website: www.ladescargala.com

Joe Brooke's Next Act

For those of you who have been wondering what has become of Joe Brooke, the erstwhile bar manager of the Edison and handsome winner of reality television competition America's Top Bartender, the mystery has been solved. Brooke has packed up his bar spoons and decamped to open and manage Next Door Lounge, a speakeasy lounge on Highland Avenue in Hollywood.

The cocktail list is still in flux and includes both classic and modern cocktails.  On the evening of my visit only three of the seven modern cocktails on the list were Brooke creations.  I sampled the Shimmy, made with Hennessy VS, Sazerac Rye, jasmine liqueur, blood orange liqueur and lemon juice.  This (a Joe Brooke cocktail mixed by the man himself) was a frothy and refreshing cocktail with a strong backbone.

It will be interesting to see how Next Door Lounge evolves.  It is a large space for a speakeasy, although only a fraction of the size of the Edison.  A food menu is available as well for those who like to munch while they sip their bespoke cocktails.  I agree with Daniel of ThirstyinLA who recommended that the owners let Brooke jump into the deep end of the punch bowl.  Why hire one of the best bartenders in town and not let him create the whole drink menu?  Silly and not a good investment.  Hopefully they will come to their senses and give him more free reign.

I have not fully explored the menu and look forward to trying more of the drinks.  You should check it out as well.  Look for the neon key sign outside to signal you in for a cocktail or two.

Next Door Lounge: 1154 N. Highland Avenue, Hollywood.  Phone: (323) 465-5505.  Website: http://www.nextdoorhollywood.com/

A Garden Grows in Your Glass: Michael's Restaurant

Michael's Restaurant in Santa Monica was one of the originators of California cuisine and focuses on the seasonal bounty available locally here in Southern California.  Founder/owner Michael McCarty still aims to provide his customers with the freshest ingredients simply prepared to let them shine.  Now he has brought that same approach to the cocktails at his restaurant.  Michael's hired bartender Jason Robey to revamp the cocktail program and the restaurateur has such faith in the new program that he has reconfigured the restaurant to devote the entire interior space to a lounge setting with small bites and cocktails and with the garden functioning as the primary dining room.

Robey, most recently of Bar Kitchen in Downtown Los Angeles and Les Deux in Hollywood, has created a list of cocktails that emphasize the local produce, with lots of infusions and other house made ingredients.  I was recently invited to a media tasting to sample the new cocktails and bar bites.  I joined forces with Daniel of Thirsty in LA to try the full range of drinks and food.

The Regional Export is made with Jefferson Reserve Bourbon, Kelt VSOP Cognac, orgeat, vanilla simple syrup, lemon and egg white.  It is frothy and sweet but not overly so.  This take on the whiskey sour was a pleasant beginning to the tasting.

My personal favorite was the Karai Karai as it is spicy with a citrus tang.  It is made with Yamazaki 12 yr Single Malt Whiskey from Japan, Jalapeño-Bell pepper simple syrup, lemon, grapefruit and basil, with jalapenos floating in it as a garnish.  There was no denying the spiciness of this drink, even if the visible Jalapeño wasn't enough of a clue.  I am a big fan of the Yamazaki and it stood up well to the potent pepper.

The Schipol Layover is made with Bols Genever, Cynar, lemon juice, avocado honey and grapefruit juice.  The avocado honey, a new ingredient to me, is made with honey from an avocado grove and does not involve any avocados proper, although the honey tastes different than traditional honey.  The name of this cocktail is a tip of the hat to the Genever, as it refers to the airport in Amsterdam, in the Netherlands, where Genever is the national drink.

The Mary Rose is a mixture of Cranberry-Ginger Tito's Vodka, vanilla simple syrup, lime, and garnished with charred rosemary.  The charring of the rosemary adds a dramatic element to the cocktail.  When Daniel and I first got to Michael's, we saw Joel Black flaming some rosemary and the scent carried to us.  The cocktail itself did not have a lot of depth.

The final drink on the introductary list is the Big Red Hat, which is surprisingly yellow, not red.  The cocktail is made with Don Julio Reposado Tequila, Yellow Chartreuse, lime juice, lemon clove simple syrup, fresh lavender, and finished with a grapefruit foam.  The Big Red Hat is refreshing and light but with a backbone and strong citrus elements.  Each of the drinks is $12.

The new cocktail menu coincided with the launch of a new bar bites menu.  The options include Yellowtail Crudo ($12), Duck Prosciutto ($10), a Slider Duo ($12), and Sage & Lemon Popcorn ($8).

The Yellowtail Crudo arrived as three Chinese spoons of yellowtail sashimi topped with citrus, micro greens and sea salt.  These were light and tasty. Below, the Duck Prosciutto is served on top of crostini with arugula and pickled citrus.  The duck was good but the portion size feels small.

My favorite of the Bar Bites were the Duo of Sliders: one with Foie Gras and Market Berry Mostarda and the other with Wagyu Beef and Shaft's Blue Cheese.  These little sliders were rich and just a couple of bites each but full of as much flavor as a full size hamburger.

I'd agree with Daniel's assessment that the popcorn is the least interesting option, as it didn't taste of either sage or lemon.  The sliders and the yellowtail are attractive options to munch on while you enjoy Robey's new cocktails.

At $12 each, Robey's produce focused cocktails are fairly priced and it is great to see Michael's continue to evolve and extend its innovations from the plate to the cocktail glass.  The roof of the restaurant is being planted with produce for the bar program, so this summer expect some exciting things.  Robey is not afraid of spicy, even in Santa Monica, which bodes well for fans of well crafted cocktails.  Another big plus for the program is its setting as Michael's is relaxed but lively.  McCarty himself was there on the night I visited and he is enthusiastic about the changes.  It is commendable that McCarty is not afraid of making changes.  I recommend you check it out for yourself.

Michael's: 1147 3rd Street, Santa Monica.  Phone: (310) 451-0843.  Website: http://www.michaelssantamonica.com/

Begin Your Countdown to Cinco de Mayo at the Border Grill

Cinco de Mayo only comes once a year (that's May 5th for you non-Spanish speakers).  But who says we have to wait until then to celebrate?  At the Border Grill in both Santa Monica and Downtown LA, they are having a $5 Five Margarita Countdown to Cinco de Mayo beginning today. They will be highlighting five tasty margaritas, a different one each week, for the five weeks leading up to Cinco de Mayo.

How can you get this bounty?  Just mention secret password "Cinco de Drinko" and the featured margarita is only $5 any time of day or night .  These cocktails are normally priced at $10 to $14, so this is a great deal, especially as you can go any time, not just during happy hour.  There is a limit of one per person per visit, but that just gives you an excuse to go more often.  The deal ends as of May 4th, and on the 5th Border Grill will be having festivities on a grand scale.

Weekly Margaritas
Week of 3/31 - 4/6: Anejo Margarita
Week of 4/7 - 4/13: Cucumber Margarita
Week of 4/14 - 4/20: Blanco Margarita
Week of 4/21 - 4/27: Reposado Margarita
Week of 4/28 - 5/4: Pomegranate Margarita

Border Grill Santa Monica: 1445 4th Street, Santa Monica. Phone: (310) 451-1655
Border Grill DTLA: 445 S. Figueroa Street, DTLA.  Phone: (213) 486-5171
Website: www.bordergrill.com

Photo courtesy of The Border Grill.

Cocktails at the Eveleigh: Old Man Winter Warms You Up

The Eveleigh, a new restaurant and bar, sits quietly on Sunset Blvd nestled behind shrubbery, an oasis from the hectic boulevard outside.  Inside, Dave Kupchinsky manages the bar, creating a welcoming atmosphere and creating new cocktails and tweaking the classics, as his style continues to evolve.  He most recently managed the bar program at The Tar Pit and at The Eveleigh it is evident that he feels more at home as his cocktails are more confident and he is more relaxed.

Blood & Smoke

I was recently invited to sample some of the cocktails. I was joined at the bar by the legendary Yolanda Evans, a New Orleans native known to bartenders from Los Angeles to Paris as fan of all things spiritous. The first cocktail we tried was the Blood and Smoke (above) made with Mezcal, Serrano pepper, blood orange, cherry Heering, sweet vermouth and mesquite smoke. In this take on the classic Blood and Sand, the smokiness of the mezcal and the mesquite smoke was tempered by the rich blood orange juice.

Old Testament

The Old Testament, made with Noah's Mill Bourbon, nutmeg-bay leaf simple syrup and Forbidden bitters did not last long in my glass.  The simple syrup was infused with both the nutmeg and bay leaf.  Kupchinsky has been working on creating more infusions and the Old Testament is typical of the investment he has been putting into the bar program.  This cocktail is delicious on a Biblical scale.

The Eveleigh

The signature Eveleigh cocktail (above) is made with Hendrick's Gin, rose and lavendar rooibos tea, vermouth blanc, and Barolo Chinato.  This is a gin drink for brown spirits drinkers.  Attractively garnished with the flower but don't let that deceive you as the power of the digestive Barolo Chinato gives the cocktail a lot of backbone.

The Sad Bastard (below) is made with bourbon, gin, ginger, clove, lime juice and bitters, shaken and garnished with candied ginger.  I only got a quick sip of it, as my drinking companion enjoyed it so thoroughly.

The Sad Bastard

The Old Man Winter is named for the barman himself and as is described as best served with lukewarm by a grumpy bartender.  This is not a drink to begin the evening with as it will blow your palate.  No shrinking violet, the Old Man Winter includes Scotch, Campari, Benedictine, Fernet and heavy angostura.  This drink served neat in an old fashioned glass packs a wallop.  Boozy and stirred, this drink was created with imbibers like LushAngeles in mind.  I am not sure what Kupchinsky is trying to say about himself with this cocktail except "beware," as he has got a lot going on.

Old Man Winter

The Lucky Louis (below) is a produce driven drink that was a refreshing counterpoint to the Old Man Winter.  It is made with Rhum Agricole, kumquats, star anise, and lime juice.  This shaken cocktail served on the rocks has the kumquats floating in it, which gives the drink a festive look.  It is easy to drink and the combination of citrus and spices was enjoyable.

Lucky Louis

The cocktails are fairly priced at $12 (note that the Old Testament is $16), which can be a deal in the neighborhood, where many cocktails are suboptimal and overpriced.  The bar itself is comfortable and large and dominates the inside room.  Even when the room was busy, Kupchinsky and his team were able to get the cocktails flowing quickly; speed without sacrificing quality.

The menu looked attractive but as I had already eaten, I only tried one item, the chicken liver parfait with orange muscat jelly, pickles and toasts.  The chicken liver was delicious and creamy, easily spreading on the toasts.  The one drawback to this dish is that Eveleigh should serve it with more toasts.  More were brought when asked, but there seems to be an epidemic in Lo Angeles of serving dishes like steak tartare or pate with not enough toasts.  Toast is easy and cheap, please serve more.

So mosey on down Sunset Blvd, get an Old Testament and you might get lucky, or at least a Lucky Louis.  Worst case is you have some excellent cocktails and perhaps a snack to wash them down.  In any case you'll be sure to see the grumpy bartender, pouring his cold dark heart into these wonderful drinks.

The Eveleigh: 8752 West Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood.  Phone: (424) 239-1630. Website: http://theeveleigh.com/

Winter Cocktails Come Ashore at Cana Rum Bar

Winter has arrived with a fierce gale at Cana Rum Bar.  General Manager Allan Katz has launched a new winter cocktail menu with beverages so tasty, pirates have been known to fight over them.  Here is a map to the treasure:

One of my favorites is the Camelot, made with Anejo rum, Amaro Montenegro, lime juice, poached pear syrup and white pepper.  This is a dagger and the winter version of Cana's classic JKO, except with poached pear instead of poached plum to better represent the season.  It is still a classy tribute to Jackie O.  It is easy drinking, delicious and not overly pear flavored.

Among the Cannons, the Red Eye to Rio is a standout.  It is a tribute to the classic Trader Vic Night Flight cocktail.  This is a potent cocktail and includes Stroh, a 160 proof Austrian spiced rum.  The other ingredients are cachaça, lime juice and maple syrup.  I will confess that I am not generally a fan of cachaça, so Katz impressed me by creating the first cachaça drink I can recommend.

The London Cut may be a Cannon but it stands in a class all by itself on the Cana menu.  It is a take on the Gordon's Cup made with Anaheim and Serrano pepper-infused Bols Genever and El Dorado rum, cucumber, lime, smoked salt and pepper.  This delicious concoction is peppery, spicy, salty and overall wonderful and is my favorite of the new list.  The previous list included the similar Stepping Razor, but switching to Bols and El Dorado from Demerara has upped the balance of this beauty who won't hesitate to slice you.

If your taste veers towards the spicy, the Deer Hunter may be the Cannon for you.  Made with Serrano-infused Heering, Anejo tequila, Old Overholt Rye and garnished with a lemon peel, it has a pleasant kick perfect for these chilly winter evenings.

Sometimes a little bit of citrus is just what the doctor ordered, and for nights such as those, the Crimean Collins makes house calls.  It includes cognac, two types of Jamaican rum, lemon, orgeat and champagne and is garnished with mint.  This Pistol has the power of lemon to perk up your palate and prepare you to walk the plank, if need be.

The winter list also includes:

Royal Oil: St. James Royal Ambre rum, Black Strap rum, lime and falernum.
Misti Dawn Sqizzle: Roiboos-infused Plymouth Gin, passionfruit juice, lime juice, Zirbenz Stone Pine Liqueur, Angostura bitters and Elemakule bitters.
Texas Early: Old Overhold Rye, Don's Miz, blackberries and lemon juice
Palmetto: El Dorado 12 Year Demerara, Carpano Antico Vermouth, orange bitters
Twist on a Twist: Overproof Rum, Amaro Cio Ciaro, Sangue Morlacco, lime juice, Angostura bitters
The Good Word: Reposado Mezcal, Yellow Chartreuse, maraschino, lime juice
Putnam's Point: Rye, Dos Maderas, Amaro Lucano, ginger, lemon, J.T. recipe bitters

Note: I was invited to sample these beverages by Cana Rum Bar at no cost.

Cana Rum Bar: 714 West Olympic Blvd (@Flower), DTLA. Phone: (213) 817-5321.  Website: canarumbar.com