Neat in Glendale, a Nifty New Spot to Sip Sprits

Aidan Demarest has been the pied piper of cocktails in Los Angeles.  He has led cocktail enthusiasts to Seven Grand, the Edison, First & Hope, 1886, and The Spare Room among others, most of which he has managed as well.  Finally Demarest has a bar he can truly call home.  Neat, in Glendale, opened last week and is the first bar that Demarest has owned.  He joins a select few LA bartenders/managers with ownership stakes in their establishments, which include Eric Alperin of The Varnish and Dave Whitton of Villains Tavern.

After so many years selling cocktails, Demarest brings a different twist to Neat.  Rather than the bartenders making cocktails, they provide a spirit neat, hence the name, and a mixer in a separate glass.  This way patrons can mix their own cocktails as well as get to taste the spirit without the mixer in it.  I recommend getting a spirit and a chaser, sangrita style, so you can sip one and then the other, alternating.  Diplomatico rum was my liquor of choice, which was served alongside some locally made soda.

Neat is casual, unpretentious and is very unlike anything else in Glendale.  In many ways it would be unique even in the cocktail mecca of Downtown Los Angeles.  I am curious to see how locals react to the conversion of what had been a dive bar to a place with a very legit back bar and knowledgeable barmen.  Of course there will be guest mixology events as Demarest can't help inviting his friends over to play.  Stay tuned here for updates on those.

For those who can hang on a Friday afternoon and have a passion for learning about spirits, Neat will be hosting the first of its Distiller Series as David Perkins, the distiller of High West Distillery in Park City, Utah, will be tasting and discussing rye with the lucky attendees this Friday October 21st from 2 - 5 pm.

Neat: 1114 Pacific Avenue, Glendale.  Phone: (818) 241-4542.  Website: www.theneatbar.com

The Celebrity Chef Tour Comes to Chaya October 20th

The Celebrity Chef Tour is kind of like the World Poker Tour, except the head to head finale leaves diners as the victors and nobody hauling away a briefcase full of cash.  The Celebrity Chef Tour comes to Chaya this Thursday night October 20th for a special dinner benefiting the James Beard Foundation.  Chaya Executive Chef Haru Kishi, and three members of the Forgione cooking family will be preparing the dinner.

The meal will begin with passed appetizers by each of the four chefs and the seated portion of the evening will start off with Hamachi Mole, one of Chef Kichi's signature creations.  Then Larry Forgione, one of the seminal leaders of American cuisine in the 1980s onwards, and his sons "Iron Chef" Marc Forgione of Marc Forgione Restaurant in New York and Bryan Forgione of the Society Cafe at the Encore resort in Las Vegas, will each serve a dish.  The meal will conclude with dessert prepared by Chefs Kishi & Tachibe of Chaya.

The meal is $175 all inclusive, which in this case means tax, tip and wine pairings.  Not only do you get to eat a meal at one of the creators of Euro Asian cuisine but diners have the opportunity to try the food of a legend and taste how his sons are building on his legacy with their own techniques.  Tradition plus experimentation should make for a fun and tasty evening.  Plus, it is not every day you get to help raise funds for the James Beard Foundation, which celebrates America's culinary heritage and traditions.

Buy tickets here: http://www.celebritycheftour.com/events/CHAYA.html

Chaya: 8741 Alden Drive, Beverly Hills.  Phone: (310) 859-8833.  Website: http://www.celebritycheftour.com/events/CHAYA.html

Fall cocktails at Michael's Santa Monica

It has been six months since Michael's Santa Monica hired Jason Robey to relaunch their cocktail program.  He has infused the spirit and produce of the Santa Monica farmers' market into his cocktails by both growing his own fruits and vegetables for his drinks as well as buying from the Wednesday market.

Robey recently created a fall cocktail list, to take advantage of the changing seasons and products available. A particularly interesting one is the Borracha Remolacha, made with Revolucion Reposado Tequila, Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Lime Juice, Agave Nectar, Beet Juice, Orange Bitters.  It is a take on a margarita but the beet juice and smoky mezcal take it a slightly different direction.  The lollipop of bruleed orange rind is a playful touch.  When I see beet juice in a cocktail, I invariably think of Matthew Biancaniello's Breeder's Cup, which is a rather tasty gin drink that is a take on a Gordon's Cup, but this cocktail is nothing like that.  The Borracha Remolacha, which translates as Drunk Beet, has the startling color of the beets to throw you off of any margarita expectations you may have.  If only this was available at more Cinco de Mayo celebrations.

The Apple Blush is pure fall, like a less sweet apple juice for adults.  Mixed with Noah's Mill Bourbon, Meyer lemon juice, aged cinnamon simple syrup, fuji apple and a cranberry-pomegranate reduction, sipping on one transported me to a New England orchard.  The danger with apple drinks is that they will be sickly sweet, and thankfully this cocktail does not go over the edge.  It is shaken and served in a highball glass over ice and garnished with a slice of apple.  The version I tried was made with Buffalo Trace bourbon.  I suspect that it will be even better with the Noah's Mill.

The rest of the fall cocktail list is below:

Pumpkin the Great: Pumpkin Puree, Vanilla, Cinnamon, Jason’s Spiced Rum, Germain-Robin Apple Brandy, Cava

Dark Side of the Moon: Aviation Gin, Dolin Dry Vermouth, Blood Orange Juice, Lime, Orange Oil Simple Syrup, Crème de Violette

Smoke Love: Laphroaig 16yr Single Malt Scotch, Smoked Mezcal, Red Bell Pepper Simple Syrup, Basil, Cilantro, Grapefruit

Number 3: Confit-Washed Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Cardamaro, Leopold Bros. Georgia Peach Whiskey, Orange, Pepper, Angostora Bitters

Mary Rose: Cranberry-Ginger Infused Tito’s Vodka, Lime, Vanilla Simple Syrup, Charred Rosemary

Vera Cruz Cocktail: Chinaco Anejo Tequila, Fair Trade Kafe Liqueur, Aperol, Aztec Chocolate Bitters, Blood Orange Juice

Piscoretto Sour: Pisco, Amaretto, Egg White, Meyer Lemon, Demerra Sugar Simple Syrup, Peach Bitters

Michaels: 1147 3rd Street, Santa Monica.  Phone: (310) 451-0843.  Website: http://www.michaelssantamonica.com/

Justin Pike is LA's Best Bartender

In the second annual Table 20 LA's Best Bartender competition, The Tasting Kitchen head bartender Justin Pike was named the champion.  The finals were held at Elevate Lounge in Downtown LA and a panel of notable judges including King Cocktail Dale DeGroff, last year's winner Matt Biancaniello of Library Bar, pastry chef and Top Chef Just Desserts judge Johnny Iuzinni, Bricia Lopez of Guelaguetza, Marcos Tello of the Varnish and president of the LA chapter of the USBG, and Jessica Gelt of the LA Times decided the winner.

LA's Best Bartender winner Justin Pike (left) with Devon Tarby

The results were:

1st Place: Justin Pike, The Tasting Kitchen
2nd Place: Joe Brooke, Next Door Lounge
3rd Place: Devon Tarby, The Varnish
4th Place: Brian Summers, Harvard & Stone
5th Place: Daniel Zacharczuk, Bar Kitchen

In addition to the ceremonial crown, which was passed from Biancaniello, Pike won a trip to Tales of the Cocktail and a billboard with his picture announcing his championship will go up on Monday October 24th at the intersection of Wilshire & Sweetzer.

The Judges Panel, from left: DeGroff, Tello, Iuzinni, Gelt, Lopez

The competition, now in its second year, was organized by Table 20 and sponsored by Karlsson's Gold Vodka.  Each finalist had to prepare six cocktails for the judges in only twenty minutes.  Three of the cocktails had to be classics, two were up to the bartender and one had to incorporate Karlsson's.  Attendance was high and several hundred spectators crowded Elevate Lounge to watch the competition and try the cocktails.  The attendees voted on their favorite cocktail and the winner was Brian Summers's Blues in Orbit, with Karlsson's Gold Vodka, fresh lemon juice, mango juice, chipotle syrup, and a celery salt rim.

Judges Lopez & Biancaniello

The only drawback to the event was the long lines for the drinks from the public bar (the competitors were making drinks for the judges only, not attendees) and the rapidly diminishing quality of those cocktails at the public bar.  Master of Ceremonies Dan Dunn kept the event moving smoothly and once the winner was announced, the attendees decamped to the Varnish for an unofficial after party.  If you didn't come to this year, plan on it for next year.

New Cocktail List, New Bar Manager at Big Bar

Big Bar recently celebrated its first anniversary.  The cocktail bar within Alcove Cafe has generated a devoted following for its unpretentious atmosphere, quality cocktails, knowledgeable staff and fun vibe.  Signature events include a weekly mixtape mixology series and a Monday movie night in which movies are projected outside.

The new fall cocktail list debuted earlier this month at Big Bar and it includes twelve selections.  The Lonsdale (below) is made with Beefeater Gin, lemon juice, honey, apple juice and basil.  The apple juice holds all the elements of the cocktail together and binds them without too much sweetness or tartness.  The Lonsdale is a well balanced shaken fall gin cocktail that is more on the refreshing side.

The Night Nurse is a take on the rum old fashioned with Sailor Jerry rum, Smith & Cross rum, grenadine, velvet falernum and absinthe.  When I sampled it Appleton's Rum was substituted for the Sailor Jerry as they were out of it.  The Night Nurse is more spiritous and would be equally wonderful to enjoy in front of a fireplace or a porch on a cool Southern California evening.  The twist of lime peel brings out citrus notes.

The Iron and Wine is made with Zaya Rum, Benedictine, Dry Vermouth, Fernet Branca, and Angostura bitters.  This stirred cocktail has a very strong mouthfeel from the Benedictine and Fernet and is on the aromatic side.

The Harvest Moon tastes like the essence of Autumn.  The apple flavor is pronounced in the cocktail made with Laird's Applejack, Amaro Nonino, Lillet, apple juice, and Angostura bitters.  Think changing leaves, pumpkin pie and a sip of the Harvest Moon as Halloween and Thanksgiving season approaches.

In a changing of the guard, bar manager Juan Sevilla is departing the bar to move to New York and work at SoHo House.  The cocktail program will be managed by Dan Long and Eugene Lee (below), who have both worked under since the bar opened, so I anticipate that the momentum that Big Bar has been building will continue.

Tonight is Sevilla's final night and it coincides with a Screening of the 80s classic movie The Lost Boys.  So come to watch the movie, say goodbye to Juan and to try the drinks on the new cocktail list.  Sevilla assures me that he will be back in LA as the New York move is not permanent.  The full cocktail list is below the movie poster:

Big Bar Fall Cocktails:

Mamie Taylor: Famous Grouse Scotch, lime juice, ginger syrup, soda, Angostura bitters

Army & Navy: Bols Genever, Orgeat, lemon juice, nutmeg

Canela Sour: El Jimador Reposado Tequila, cinnamon syrup, lime juice, chocolate chili bitters, Angostura bitters

Remember the Maine: Old Overholt Rye Whiskey, Carpano Antica. Cherry Heering, Absinthe

Cinnamon Girl: Woodford Reserve Bourbon, St. Germain, lemon juice, grapefruit juice, cinnamon syrup, Angostura bitters, sparkling wine

Paloma: El Jimador Tequila, grapefruit juice, lime juice, simple syrup, tonic water

Rum Diary: Bacardi 8 Rum, Del Maguey Mezcal Vida, agave, lime juice

Bo Diddley: Old Overholt Whiskey, Kings Ginger Liqueur, lime juice, honey, Angostura bitters, cucumber

Big Bar at Alcove Cafe: 1929 Hillhurst Avenue, Los Feliz.  Phone: (323) 644-0100.  www.alcovecafe.com/bigbar

Scottish Cashmere @ Drago Centro

A highlight of Jaymee Mandeville's new cocktail list at Drago Centro is the Scottish Cashmere ($12).  This stirred drink is made with Highland Park 12 Year aged Scotch, Fig and Basil Infused Water and is served over a single large ice cube with a fig as garnish.

The cocktail is smooth with a hint of basil and fig.  The Scottish Cashmere is elegant, goes down easy, but you'll want to savor this one, so take it a sip at a time.  Highland Park is one of my favorite Scotch producers; it is unusual to see it as the base in a cocktail.  It comes from the Orkney Isles and is the Northernmost whiskey distillery in the world.  If this cocktail represents the first lap since the passing of the torch from Michael Shearin, the bar program at Drago Centro is in good hands.

Drago Centro: 525 S. Flower Street, Downtown.  Phone: (213) 228-8998.  Website: http://www.dragocentro.com/

Wilshire is a delight

Wilshire Restaurant is a standard bearer for New American cuisine in Santa Monica.  The restaurant which is known for its beautiful back patio has also been known for the talent in the kitchen.  Longtime executive chef Andrew Kirschner left earlier this year and was replaced by rising star Nyesha Arrington, who had been the Executive Chef at Caché.  Previously she had worked with Josiah Citrin at Melisse and at Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas.  Arrington is becoming known to a wider audience through her participation on the current season of Top Chef, now airing on Bravo and the formal announcement of her position as Executive Chef coincided with the announcement of this season's cast of cheftestants.

I recently had dinner at Wilshire with a friend in the restaurant business and we shared much of the menu.  Several of the highlights are pictured below.  Overall the food was approachable and tasted good.  This was not tweezer food, although it was attractively plated.

The Heirloom Tomato Salad with burrata was served with aged balsamic.  The combination of fresh heirloom tomatoes with burrata can be a cliche, but if it is executed well, like at Wilshire, it can remind you of why it is so popular.  Arrington lets the quality of the ingredients shine through; my dining companion and I fought for the last forkful of cheese.

Maggie's Farm Caesar Salad is another take on a classic, with large crisps of toast standing in for the croutons and with white anchovy.  The parmesan gave it a pleasant salty tang.

Cool pate with preserves and warm toast fresh out of the oven is always welcome on my table.  The pate was creamy and unctuous and the fruit provided a pleasant acidity as a counterpoint.

Whole fishes are a favorite of mine and the Whole Grilled Branzino was no exception.  The light fish was served with a fennel salad and typical of Arrington's style was prepared simply and well executed.  A squeeze of lemon and we happily devoured the whole fish, including the cheeks.

The Ribeye with tempura onion rings was a fitting end to our meal.  The beef was nicely rosy, medium rare as asked, and deep in flavor.  The crunch of the onion ring was quite good and this onion ring had none of the grease that is so often found in versions of the dish.

Sitting in the back patio at Wilshire is a real pleasure, especially as the food matches or exceeds the setting.  There can sometimes be a scene in the front bar lounge area, but when you step outside onto the patio, it is like leaving Los Angeles behind.  Arrington stopped by our table and she mentioned that she has brought on many new purveyors and farmers whom she had relationships with from her prior experience working at Citrin's restaurants.  I look forward to seeing the menu continue to develop.  I have a feeling that Arrington's profile will grow in this town, mostly from her cooking but also from her television appearances where her genuineness comes through.

So request a table on the patio and have a leisurely dinner.  Relax, you will be in good hands.

Our meal was hosted.

Wilshire Restaurant: 2454 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica.  Phone: (310) 586-1707.  Website: wilshirerestaurant.com